ADFD1 wrote:

My dad will be sending me some Lubro-Moly MOS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment. 300ML container. How much would you guys add to a 5 qt sump? He's sending me 2 bottles.

AD

Friend of mine said he'd get me some next time he's in the states. No info on that yet.

I added the dry molly to my engine 2 weeks ago. 2 ounces. Engine oil is now gray. Everything looks good so far.
I did a warm up video pre-moly. We'll see this week-end if the temperature rise changes.

Let us know how it goes.

AD

Whew been a long time since I have been able to take more than a sneek peek at this thread. I did have time to read through today though and mostly catch up, will re-read tonight, but good to see that the discussion has continued on.Was afraid to come home and find out it had died off.

Nice pictures CrazyHoe and others. I saw a question or two in my quick read, sorry I couldn't reply to the ones directed at me. I should be back for a while and will chime in where I can.

When I did my pre-molyb timed warm-up, it was 51*F outside and I'm waiting to for the same conditions but with no luck so far.


I have lots of pictures to add but no time to do so.

Saw a few questions about quantity for a 5 quart system and such.

This is a little historical info as background. Several years back Climax Moly did a multi year or so test of fleet vehicles to test MoS2 in oil. For their testing they used a ratio of 1% by weight. If memory serves, oil is near 830 grams per quart, so about 8.3 grams/qt of MoS2 by their methodology. In the 9 years of testing there were no adverse affects reported.

We have been testing using 10 grams per quart of 0.5µ WS2. We have to use more because there is a difference in the density of material. We know that 10 grams per quart is overkill when considering the total surface area that is desired to treat, but it provides for fast coating action versus a lower amount.

For pure theoretical reference, if you had perfect 0.5µ cubic material, you could coat 20,666.4959 square inches with 50 grams of WS2 (5 Qt system) the equivalent amount of MoS2 by weight would be 33.7 grams or so due to the lighter weight of MoS2. This assumes both cubic shaped material and a 0.5µ size of material. It is slightly below the usage by Climax but as you can see provides a high saturation rate for an initial treatment of an engine. The reality is that both WS2 and MoS2 are a crystalline shape and therefore would coat a higher surface area than the theoretical figure here because that cube will typically break into a few platelets of the cube. Thus if the cube breaks twice, you would get a rough 1.5µ coating surface potentially from the weight of the 0.5µ cube.

Hope that is of use. BTW 50 grams of WS2 is about a large heaping Tablespoon of material.

great info. I recently put some in with one of my intermediate oil changes, I used ~1-2 teaspoons for the whole 5+ quart system. I ran it for ~400 miles over the course of a week or so before changing the oil again, so it wasn't there for a whole long time, but a small amount is likely still in there and hopefully it treated most of the friction surfaces durring that time. I didn't notice any adverse affects, and didn't see anything overly benefitial right off the bat, but the weather was rapidly changing durring the time I ran it so that most likey played a role in things like warm up time, and sub-temp engine oil pressure. I'm sure it is helping but mostly in a longevity area which isn't immediately seen.

I would recommend leaving it in for the duration of your oil change next time. It will always take some time, but more so at lower amounts to work itself in as this is not like just getting a liquid to coat your parts. Basically you need to have MoS2 or WS2 at the point of contact on the friction surfaces whenever the oil layer breaks down enough to allow it to burnished into the surface. Light driving and such may possibly never even see that occurrence, only when you push the limits of the hydrostatic layer of the oil will you begin working these materials into the metal surfaces.

This is part of why Air impingement is the best method of 100% instant coating of both MoS2 and WS2.

Coronamaker wrote:

I would recommend leaving it in for the duration of your oil change next time. It will always take some time, but more so at lower amounts to work itself in as this is not like just getting a liquid to coat your parts. Basically you need to have MoS2 or WS2 at the point of contact on the friction surfaces whenever the oil layer breaks down enough to allow it to burnished into the surface. Light driving and such may possibly never even see that occurrence, only when you push the limits of the hydrostatic layer of the oil will you begin working these materials into the metal surfaces.

This is part of why Air impingement is the best method of 100% instant coating of both MoS2 and WS2.

yeah, next time I put it in I will leave it, I just finished alot of work on the engine and wanted some in there to test out for a short bit, and since I knew the oil change I was going to do would be short I figured why not. FWIW I used it in 5W30 Mobil 1 with a M1 filter, which is also what is used in there now.

My 2 ounces is equivalent to 57 grams. Around 10 grams/liter as I filled up with 6 liters of Mobil1 synth. I was burning around 1 liter/week/400-500k pre-molyb. That seems to have slowed down or even stop.

How much of the Lubro-Moly MOS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment. 300ML container would you add to a 5 or 6 qt sump? That whole bottle seems like a lot.

AD

Well I had dad get some Lubro-Moly for me and I added the entire 300 ml container. It changed the oil color as I expected it to. The engine starts a little easier, less cranking time, sounds good. Gas mpgs +1, although that can be contested I guess. What I found interesting was my temp gauge read higher than normal on the first run with this brew in the oil. Now it is a tiny bit lower, and stay that way. But it is an electric gauge not a mechanical gauge. My plan is to run this a full OCI then add 1 ounce/qt of oil as a king of maint dose.

Happy New Year!
AD

Just checking in to see if anyone has anything to report? For everything is about the same as my last report. Engine is running fine, slightly cooler, and a tiny drop in oil pressure, but I don't have a mechanical gauge with actual readings.

AD

All my experiences, except for the drop in oil PSI. Could be the sender is getting old.
How many miles? Same initial oil charge, or changed it yet? Really doesn't show
up till way farther down the road...unless you abuse it, then wear and tear shows
up pretty fast that this will manage (defer a bit).

Am in need to make a big buy and decided no difference (for me) whether MoS2
or WS2, as long as it is small enough and from a reputable dealer.

Just bought a used 2000 Honda Odyssey and selling the Caddy STS (anyone
interested?) and going to rebuild my mountain bike or a full suspension.

My shifters are messed up after getting doored for the 3rd time and know
that they need rebuilding (grease from the OEM dries to stick). Want to
go dry and coat them with either MoS2 or WS2 powder.

The oil pressure reading is slightly lower, but very slight, it could very well be the sending unit. I have about 1300 miles on it since the oil was changed. The vehicle has close to 190,000 miles on it now. Cold starts have been fine, there could be a slight gain in mpgs but the winter fuel and different driving habits makes it hard to tell for sure. I am monitoring oil use, so far everything appears to be about the same.

I also have WS2 but have not done anything with it. My father coats bullets with it and sent some my way.

AD

Hi guys,

Just finding time to get back to this forum (mom had a stroke).

Bought a 2000 Honda Odyssey mini van to handle mom's wheel chair and
stuff. 115K miles and they used Mobil 1 synthetic it's whole life. Missionaries
and must have been their 'bus' for kids and animals... Still finding gum/candy/etc
mixed in with animal hair, even after super cleaning it.

Got some WS2 from Coronamaker (Brad) and finally found time to try it on
the Odyssey.

Drove it as is for about 1.5K miles. Loaded, empty, long trips, hills, hot weather, etc.

The dash gauge nailed dead center (should have taken pictures).

Changed in a fresh charge of Mobil 1, NAPA Gold filter (Wix) and WS2. Bought a
$5 buck Ostyerizer from Goodwill and some plastic containers to mix. Used 2
level teaspoons (Yeah, will have to buy a digital scale or some sort of better
means to meter it out).

Nothing noticeable for the first 1.2K miles.

Then noticed the dash gauge dropped about 2-3mm lower. About two needle
widths worth.

It is now nailed at that reading no matter how hot, how loaded, how fast, etc.

This is the key indicator I used when using Moly on small displacement engines.
Larger displacement has the reduction in friction lost in the noise... The other
indicator on 'new' engines is engine oil PSI, but this is a used vehicle. MPG
went up a bit...about 0.5-1 MPG, but since I've only had it for about 8K miles,
not sure valid or just wishful thinking... First few tanks around town were
around 18.5-19 MPG, now 19-20 MPG.

No other way to tell without expensive instrumentation.

True test will be longevity and how it performs in a high performance
application (you boy racers rigs)

About time to flush the air compressor's crank and the portable gas
air compressor (both the ICE and compressor) and will use what is
left of the WS2. The moly in the lawn mower is doing it's job and
can mow 2 more lawns before having to refill with gas.

Also got some larger particulate WS2 and will be trying that on a
buddies diff that is making noise (half ton Silverado and he started
towing before breaking it in...open diff).

-Ben Sr

Bummer, my prayers to your mom. I feel your pain, had to take care of the mother in law for about 10 years before she died. Had to put her in a home because there was no way she could be allowed to spend the day alone.

sorry to hear about you mom Ben, I hope she's doing okay now.

good to hear your results of the WS2, I just changed gears not too long ago, and after a good break in period I'll be using some MoS2 in the rear I've been using it on and off in the oil for a little while now, I can't really measure the results though, due to little things I'm also fixing and working on at the same time. but definantly nothing negative.

Thanks for the kind words...high blood pressure takes it toll later in life.

Going to need to get some more if it continues to work out this well.

Will take some datum temp measurements of the 3 compressors before
changing their oil. Neighbor is 94 and has a complete commercial cabinet
making shop out back. Helped him put in a $1,200 stand up compressor
a few years ago and it's compressor case so hot, can't touch it. Going
to see if he will let me test it out on his.

The 1980 Silverado C10 and 1996 Suburban is next.

Can't find my box of moly filled grease and now noodling adding WS2
to some high temp brake grease for the road bike am building (looks
like it might be a 15 pounder).

First off, my prayers and best wishes to your mom, Ben. I hope she is doing OK.

I've not yet contributed to this thread, but I have been watching it closely as it has evolved. I've done a few things to get myself up and running so as to try this out on my own engines. I have a Toyota 3.0, a Pontiac 3.1, two L31s, and a lawn mower engine to test this out on.

So did we ever come to a consensus as to initial dosage on an existing engine (assume a 5-quart sump capacity)? Thereafter, how much are we thinking should be put in as a recharge at each oil change? I was thinking along these lines: 1 teaspoon per quart for the initial charge (that would be 5 teaspoons or about 1 and a half Tablespoons since there are 3 teaspoons in one Tablespoon). Then, one teaspoon in one of the 5 quarts at each oil change (essentially, a one-teaspoon recharge at each oil change). Any opinions on this as to whether or not this is too conservative to affect any real change or perhaps too much?

Next, I think it was Ben Sr. who expressed some concern as to the "200 pound per customer limit" notation on the Rosemill web site. I called them earlier today (nice people, BTW) and the rep explained the policy to me. Essentially, it would be a non-issue for buyers like us, as it is not a lifetime maximum or anything like that. It's really just a safeguard so as to keep bulk buyers from skirting their pricing structure, or something to that effect. The rep explained it in detail, but the only part germane to us is that for our purposes here, we will have no problem ordering however much we need.

As for mixing equipment, I picked up a Sunbeam blender today for mixing the MoS with the oil. They have these on sale at Target right now for $16. Should work fine for our purposes. The cup is large enough to easily hold more than a full quart at a time, and it's glass with a neoprene (I think) seal at the bottom, so it should hold up well to being cleaned with solvent if necessary (not the seal, just the glass part). Just don't drop it.



Target also has these stainless steel measuring spoons if that is your method of choice for metering out the dose. The 4-spoon set was $0.99 at my local Target.

wow blender and all. that should do a good job of blening it, I've just been putting in ~1 tsp of ultra fine moly in a quart of oil and shake it really well seems to do a good job of dispersing it well. then each subsequent quart I pour into the original container that I put the moly in and give it a good shake, I find after all the quarts of oil it seems to pick up pretty much all the resitual moly from the container. then I run the engine for ~10 mins after putting it all in to mix everything up well internally.

when I change the rear gear oil this week or next, I'm going to use a good amount of moly with it. I don't know how much I'll use specifically, but a good amount.