Ditto and more in that less friction means spins up faster.

Plus more of that power stroke into the crank instead of frictional losses
no matter how small.

Love this stuff !

Gotta make a buy soon....

My only problem is I am blindly guessing at how much to dose the engine with. I went with 10 CC in a 5 qt sump. Can someone steer me in the direction of a doseage to use? I know this is new territory for a lot of us, but there are a lot of more experienced members with this stuff than me.

Thanks!
AD

ADFD1 wrote:

My only problem is I am blindly guessing at how much to dose the engine with. I went with 10 CC in a 5 qt sump. Can someone steer me in the direction of a doseage to use? I know this is new territory for a lot of us, but there are a lot of more experienced members with this stuff than me.

Thanks!
AD

I'd also like to hear some info on this too, I know some ideas were tossed around earlier in the thread, but was there ever a consensus reached on it?

Right side coated with WS2, you can really see the difference in color.
They are Clevite 77 bearings.


For the rest, the left side is coated with WS2.






Ben Sr's link to bullet coating said that better results were achieve by heating the parts. So I used an old wood stove I had and burned the left over gas that was used to clean my parts.






Last edited by CrazyHoe on Sat Oct 10, 2009 5:39 am; edited 1 time in total

Hey Guys,

Came across this thread while searching for molybdenum disulfide for motor oil. Some great info here! Just ordered some super fine moly powder from a source I hadn't seen here. $18 for 6oz which should be enough for me. It's sold through gun suppliers for moly coating bullets.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/lyman-super-moly-superfine-grade-moly-powder-7631412.html

Would a tablespoon be too much for a 4 qt sump? Thanks for all the info here.

Chad T wrote:

Hey Guys,

Came across this thread while searching for molybdenum disulfide for motor oil. Some great info here! Just ordered some super fine moly powder from a source I hadn't seen here. $18 for 6oz which should be enough for me. It's sold through gun suppliers for moly coating bullets.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/lyman-super-moly-superfine-grade-moly-powder-7631412.html

Would a tablespoon be too much for a 4 qt sump? Thanks for all the info here.

welcome to the site chad, I've seen that moly around but wasn't sure on its size, if it is in the same range as the rosemill 1.5um average stuff then it would be a great alternative to buying a full pound. its hard to say what one person's "super fine" is compared to another. let us know how it is when you get it. as far as how much to use, I'm not sure on that, hopefully others will chime in.

Chad T wrote:

Hey Guys,

Came across this thread while searching for molybdenum disulfide for motor oil. Some great info here! Just ordered some super fine moly powder from a source I hadn't seen here. $18 for 6oz which should be enough for me. It's sold through gun suppliers for moly coating bullets.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/lyman-super-moly-superfine-grade-moly-powder-7631412.html

Would a tablespoon be too much for a 4 qt sump? Thanks for all the info here.

My buddy is interested in this, I completely forgot. Anyway the topic came up and he said he spoke with someone from Rosemill about this and was told people use as much as one teaspoon/qt of oil, down to one teaspoon per 5 qt sump.
That doesn't help any of us looking for a proper dose. I am currently using 10 cc in a 5 qt sump with no adverse effects.

I wish someone with more experience would chime in, but I think were are all sailing into new territory here.

Aloicious wrote:

welcome to the site chad, I've seen that moly around but wasn't sure on its size, if it is in the same range as the rosemill 1.5um average stuff then it would be a great alternative to buying a full pound. its hard to say what one person's "super fine" is compared to another. let us know how it is when you get it.

I found this on their site before I ordered it.

Quote:

Q: What is Super-Fine Grade Moly?
A: Moly is commonly available in three grades. These are Super-fine, Technical-fine, and Technical. The finer the moly is, the better it works. Lyman uses Super-fine Grade Moly in this kit, which has a median particle size of 1.5 microns. It is much more expensive than the other grades, but works the best. Technical-fine has a median particle size of 6 microns and Technical is 30 microns.

I was interested in the ebay moly powder but they don't say what grade it is. I'll bet it's not super fine. Pretty sure the Lyman is the same as the Rosemill. Similar price but a little more convenient if you don't want a whole pound. Thanks to you guys I knew to make sure it was the good stuff.

Chad T wrote:

Aloicious wrote:

welcome to the site chad, I've seen that moly around but wasn't sure on its size, if it is in the same range as the rosemill 1.5um average stuff then it would be a great alternative to buying a full pound. its hard to say what one person's "super fine" is compared to another. let us know how it is when you get it.

I found this on their site before I ordered it.

Quote:

Q: What is Super-Fine Grade Moly?
A: Moly is commonly available in three grades. These are Super-fine, Technical-fine, and Technical. The finer the moly is, the better it works. Lyman uses Super-fine Grade Moly in this kit, which has a median particle size of 1.5 microns. It is much more expensive than the other grades, but works the best. Technical-fine has a median particle size of 6 microns and Technical is 30 microns.

I was interested in the ebay moly powder but they don't say what grade it is. I'll bet it's not super fine. Pretty sure the Lyman is the same as the Rosemill. Similar price but a little more convenient if you don't want a whole pound. Thanks to you guys I knew to make sure it was the good stuff.

yeah that sounds like the rosemill stuff. let us know how it goes

Hi Chad, Welcome to the forum!

Verbiage, marketing, is just that marketing....super duper, biggest, best, super lean,
extra fine, super fine, super tender loin, center cut, king of the hill stuff.

A micron is a micon vs 4 micron, etc

Even then, gotta read between the lines. 'Average' is a common weasel word. Then
one can then ask if that average is on a 1,000 lb sample....which then can be asked
what is the distribution of particle sizes within that....

There was a new method mentioned early on this thread. New to me at that time,
but BenJr found some info and after reviewing it, not good enough for me. More
marketing based to show a 'test' that confirms their sizing. Again, an 'average'
with no real metrics for the whole batch, just the average of what they want you
to see.

I've been using MoS2 since around 1968. Trusted the military to test and confirm.
Certification of the vendor (on their list), purchase required certification documentation,
delivery to the military had them check the doc's and some sort of incoming certification
testing.

To confirm how much is in the stuff I've purchased through the years, can sacrifice one
bottle of my stuff. Weigh it. Weigh the filter material (good for 1 micron). Dump the
contents into the filter. Maybe clean out the bottle with some solvent and dump that
into the filter too. Weigh the oil that comes out the other end of the filter (solvent should
be weighed before used to clean out every last bit of MoS2. Weigh the filter loaded with
MoS2 and subtract the virgin filter weight. That is the MoS2 from Pacific Lube. One of you
with better equipment for this kind of testing will have to do the work.

Just put in about 1.5 qt of engine MoS2 into the new crate engine on my 1980 Silverado
C10's 5.7L. Screamer, but can't get it to idle smooth. The cam I ordered is a 280, whatever
that is (not up on cam spec). Think the Edelbrock Performer carb needs rebuilding (yeah,
knew should'a, but rushed it). It never idled well with the previous 'built' 5.7L and the
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold. Should's kept the Q-jet.... No budget for headers just
yet and really waiting for it to turn 30 and no more Calif Smog testing !!!!

Ran it for about 100 miles yesterday and the dip stick oil is clear like new. Even after
a few minutes idling after the change showed no MoS2 on the dip stick. Know this stuff
is getting through the filter because believe the supplier's spec of 3 microns or less
(military spec for this stuff).

This was the bottom of an old 1 gallon jug that sat for about 15 years without stirring.
Added 1 quart of Mobil 1 synthetic. Stirred and dumped it into the 5.7L with about
500 miles on it. Forgot to get a Fram filter and used one from my stock (NAPA Gold,
which is a Wix). First pic is after a couple shakes, then thought to take some pics for
you guys. Cut the jug open to get at it.







Lawn mower with the gear moly is doing very well. Mobil 1 synthetic and about 2 oz
of Pacific Lube Gear MoS2. Think I'll not change the oil every season like I used to.
Maybe every other just to see how it goes. Starts way easier and seems to spin faster
(seat of the pants). Honda 5HP on a Troybuilt 18" push mower. It was clear, like new out
of the bottle before adding MoS2.

By the way, no go on the photo spectroscopy analysis of the purity of our sample.
Friend of mine who has access to such equipment can't test our stuff as it would require the purchase of a kit to analyze the specificity of molyb.
And since it's a drug company, they would go for that.

Bent1 wrote:

Hi Chad, Welcome to the forum!

Verbiage, marketing, is just that marketing....super duper, biggest, best, super lean,
extra fine, super fine, super tender loin, center cut, king of the hill stuff.

A micron is a micon vs 4 micron, etc

Thanks for the welcome Ben and thanks for sharing your years of experience with this stuff. Looks like the powder is the only way to get pure MoS2 these days? From what I've been able to find out Super-fine grade is supposed to be the smallest particle size available. 1.5 micron avarage. Here is a chart from Rosemill's site posted earlier showing the different grades available.



The stuff I'm getting is just pure powder no oil or anything with it. It's made for coating bullets in a tumbler. Looks like the best bet until you find another stash of your military brew.

Still debating out how much to use. Honda puts Moly in their factory fill and says not to change it early. I'm trying to add a similar amount. Most oil analysis of the Honda factory fill comes out at 650 ppm of Moly. I wonder if they started using this to make up for the lack of zinc in modern oils? I think they still use slider cams. At least they did not too long ago.

Just out of curiosity...I asked Paul (my funny car crew chief buddy....who's currently living with us) if they ever used Moly in the race engines.
The reply was a deffinate NO!
He said they considered it an abrasive. He did however say that they'd dump the oil and use new oil for every run due to the amount of fuel washing past the rings into the oil.
He also said they quite often used an 80 weight oil which....by the end of a run was so diluted with fuel they had '0' oil pressure.

Just food for thought.

I consider oil diluted with fuel and '0' pressure definitely abrasive.

The industry considers Molybdenum disulphide one of the slipperiest substance know to man.

I think they would benefit from it. IMO

This is not an absolute (best for all things, in all conditions, etc). Just because
a great thing for one thing, does it mean a ditto for another. Ditto bad thing
for one, likewise for another

Ask any competitive racer of anything how often they rebuild their ICEs.

MoS2/WS2 has one of the lowest co-efficient of friction of all materials
known to mankind. Fact.

Some see that since a sulfide and a ash, abrasive. True in 'most' cases....but
not necessarily so in all cases.

These platings work both to reduce friction, so it spins easier/faster/etc AND
lives longer. The first is a desirable attribute for any racer, but the second
isn't. Really all a racer cares about is lasting a bit past the whole race. Some
a series (weekend), others just that race. Rarely will they keep that ICE for
weeks/months. I did, but wasn't a pro.

Ben's posting of an F1 engine innards, sparked some new potential applications.

Small 2.4L going 18,000 RPMs now regulated to 14,000, IIRC, says compression
is high (NA) and the rate of change critical in making the difference. Mass a huge
component. Friction another and why roller bearings on the crank instead of
journal bearings. Metrics for a V8 and much, much larger displacement will have
other attributes to, but based on the same foundations.

Friction is the same in all, but lesser component in comparison to the others.
Like the surface area of the piston rings to cylinder, mass, offset of the crank/rod, etc

I've always noticed that the 'break in' of a pure race ICE vs a road has 'had' completely
different metrics. Why I've developed my opinion on HOW2 break in an ICE and is
mainly from racing and other racers.

Ever see how some dragsters modify their piston tops? Drilled holes on the inside
of the rings. The CC pressure pushes the rings tighter against the cylinder walls.
Only a few do this, as it will wear out that union in a hurry. MoS2/WS2 would
alleviate that AFTER it is broken in.....but....that would take too long for most
dragster owners/drivers....

Plus, 'friction' is such a small component for most large displacement dragsters,
it is NOT high on their list of have to haves

'0' PSI would benefit from MoS2/WS2, but again, they don't keep that engine
long and rebuild very, very soon...

Stage 2 VQ35 Block - Nissan 350z/Infiniti G35

Product Description
Stage 2 VQ35 Block - Nissan 350z/Infiniti G35
This Stage 2 VQ35 Block is good for someone with a Twin turbo system on their Nissan 350z or Infiniti G35 that wants a safe and reliable bottom end when pushing the limits. The stage 2 package is good for up to 650 Rwhp(We strongly recommend a sleeved block for over 650 Rwhp). The Stage 2 VQ35 block comes with a full one year warranty against defects and comes with our 10+ years experience on building Nissan motors.

This package includes:

Products in bold are upgraded from previous stage

CP Pistons or Arias Extreme .020 over Pistons
Pauter or Carillo Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
Block inspected and cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Rotating assembly balanced
Crank magnafluxed and the journals micro-polished
New Moly coated Race Spec main bearings installed
New Moly coated Race Spec rod bearings installed
Block prepped and assembled


*** Ceramic/Moly Coating can be added to the Piston Tops and Skirts for an Additional $250. ***



*** Shipping will be by Truck Freight and we will contact you before shipping for a quote. ***

http://www.importpartspro.com/st2blon.html

Liqui Moly

http://images.imcparts.net/shared/documents/2009.pdf
http://images.imcparts.net/shared/documents/2009_0003_18-08-2005_EN.pdf

MoS2ANTI-FRICTION
ENGINE TREATMENT

DESCRIPTION:
MoS2–Anti-Friction is a colloidal, molybdenum sulphide (MoS2)
based solid lubricant suspended in mineral oil stabilized by a
special preparation process and formulated for use in vehicle
engines (petrol and Diesel). Miscible and fully compatible with
all commercially-available engine oils (mineral oils, partially
and fully synthetic oils).

PROPERTIES:
Forms a friction and wear reducing “Moly” film on all sliding
surfaces of the engine. The engine runs smoother, quieter,
cooler, more reliably. Provides an extra measure of protection
under extreme operating conditions, e.g. extreme temperatures,
engine overheating under high loads, loss of oil, etc.
Miscible with all motor oils.

BENEFITS:
Up to 50% less engine wear. Reduces oil and fuel consumption.
Longer engine life. Safeguards against break-downs and
repairs. Smoother more pleasant engine operation.
Application:
Added to the lubricating oils of engines, compressors, pumps
and especially motor vehicle engines (Gas and Diesel). Mixes
with all commercially available engine oils.

INSTRUCTIONS:
Add 5 % (50 ml per litre of oil) MoS2–Anti-Friction to engine
oil. Can be added to engine oil at any time. One can treats up
to 1.5 gal (6 liter) of oil.
MoS2 ANTI-FRICTION ENGINE TREATMENT 300ml can

Am going to need to make a volume buy soon.

1-2 microns!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just got my Moly recently. Superfine grade which is average particle size of 1.5 microns. Came in a 6 oz canister which was a relief. It looked like it was going to come in a bag.

http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/picture.php?albumid=280&pictureid=2003

Added some to my first oil change. Not sure how much I put in but I would guess a tablespoon or 2. Should have been more scientific I suppose but I was paranoid about breathing any of the dust so I just dumped some in. It really mixed well with the oil. Turned the quart I put it in really black. Here is the bottle after pouring out the moly-treated oil.

http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/picture.php?albumid=280&pictureid=2004

Seems to be staying suspened pretty well so far. Did some driving right after I put it in and have driven 3 days on it. Here you can see the moly suspended in the oil. Not the greatiest pic but the oil only has about 20 miles on it so what you're seeing is the moly. This is after running through a Mobile 1 filter. Also the moly was mixed with 0-20 M1 oil.

http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/picture.php?albumid=280&pictureid=2005

This is a 1.5 liter Honda motor. Feels like it has zero friction now. Very smooth. I plan on having the factory fill and this oil change with the moly analyzed to see how much I added compered to the factory amount.

Well that's my 2 cents for now. Thanks for all the great info on this magic stuff.

My dad will be sending me some Lubro-Moly MOS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment. 300ML container. How much would you guys add to a 5 qt sump? He's sending me 2 bottles.

AD