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Starting disabled due to theft system
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Post Starting disabled due to theft system 
Dads Caddy STS would not start this morning, so had to take the Suburban to rehab.

Above message on the computer display and then said to wait 3 minutes to restart. Tried that two times and finally gave up and left.

Tried again just now and get the same message.

Will have to find to dig out the glove box manual and see if it can be reset.

The key still has the resistor element in it, but it's a bit worn. So maybe not making full contact. I'll try mom's key later, which has almost no usage, so not worn.

Any hints?

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its that resistor key. if it does not see the proper resistance when its turned, it goes into theft mode.

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It reset's itself after the 3 minutes-if you let it set and it still doesn't start than it's a VATS fault.
Either the transceiver or like TT said the key(or PCM/BCM,not sure which controls the VATS on that-maybe a separate security module since it's a cadillac or CKT fault.)
I've never came across a key that went bad though.
That's why I love TCII Very Happy I always delete vats-nobody around here is smart enough to know how to bypass it to steal one anyway.
Deleteing it from the PCM doesn't turn off the security light though,since it is triggered by a fault in the system and from a separate module(BCM in 99+ trucks)
But it will allow the vehicle to start.

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playtoy_18 wrote:
It reset's itself after the 3 minutes-if you let it set and it still doesn't start than it's a VATS fault.
Either the transceiver or like TT said the key(or PCM/BCM,not sure which controls the VATS on that-maybe a separate security module since it's a cadillac or CKT fault.)
I've never came across a key that went bad though.
That's why I love TCII Very Happy I always delete vats-nobody around here is smart enough to know how to bypass it to steal one anyway.
Deleteing it from the PCM doesn't turn off the security light though,since it is triggered by a fault in the system and from a separate module(BCM in 99+ trucks)
But it will allow the vehicle to start.


the problem with the "well used" keys is they dont make the contact correctly anymore - i have seen a good half dozen that have done this. either the key or the key cylinder wears out from use. if not making the contact it will see a different value or none at all and will trigger the anti theft. you can have a new key made or if you were to install a remote start, it would bypass this, or just do a VATS bypass.

never did like the resistor keys - dont care much for the transponder keys either.

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Mom's key works

Assume it is with Dad's key and it's worn out and hope not the cylinder (knock on wood).

Off to the dealers later this week and ask if anyone knows
of non-dealer ($$$$) that can make these keys.

Thanks,

-Ben

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Take an ohm meter and measure the resistance in the key....go to radio shack and get a reststor of the same resistance and find the wire under the dash for the security system like the car starter guys do.......it costs about 50 cents and you never have the problem again....dont quote me but I think its the white wire that runs to the ignition switch Im not 100% positive tho....Lorne

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Lorne, same solution posted over at the Suburban forum
with pictures HOW2.

Here is the link 'guy' posted: http://vats.likeabigdog.com


11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column.





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the wires are not always the same colors.

vehicles are different, if this is the path you choose get the right color wire.

that "orange" wire is a sleeve and usually is orange due to the airbag wires being yellow, but i have seen them in white and green. and the wires inside should be white - but i have seen blue, black, tan, and brown. also sometimes they are multiple colors.

its easiest to tell which one it is because its all by itself away from the main wires and just looks "odd".

if it is done this way, it is a true bypass and just having a key that turns will start it (even a non resistor key).

VATS will see the resistance value all the time, if you wanted you could start it with a screwdriver at that point.

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Good point, hadn't crossed my mind...

Maybe a kill switch in series, or a set of switches with a
combo on/off, but that then adds complexity...

Oh well, it works with mom's key and have 'time' to noodle this.

Thanks for the help !

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funny,I've been messing with a no crank on a 99 cougar.
Knew it was theft/PATS related-diagnosed the transciever,all my other checks came out fine.
After r&r'ing it,I reprogrammed the customers existing key and a new one.
Still a no start,now with a different code-still for transciever not sending/pcm not recieving.
redid all my checks-in total I redid all my electrical check's about 15 times-as I got different readings almost every time.
In the process I overlay'd a new ground,just to make me feel better.
Finally got it to start-woohoo.
Took out the new key,put in the customer's key to verify and get a fault again.
So I start diagnosing again-the start up was totally unexpected,I had begun to suspect an intermittent pcm issue.
still goofy readings,but then all of a sudden after taking control of the PIDs the light stops when I back out of the system.
So I try to start-it starts..
go through checks again-basically I need something concrete before I will replace a pcm-I need to define the fault and it seems to keep moving.
I can get it to start now and then but when I try to verify by removing key and placing other key in(either one) it will go back again.
This went on for awhile,and I was pretty damn ready to just order a pcm against my better judgement.
Then I notice that the customers existing key had metallic fingernail polish on it. Hadn't paid much attention to it other than when they were handed to me,I was thinking "oh great,if this is their idea of custom i've got some real fun when I start diggin into it,must be some hack job).

Fords key's have an actual transponder in them,not just a resistor.
So I scrape all the fingernail polish off the key,and voila' no more issue.
I won't know for sure till I verify,reverify etc.. tomorrow-since it gave me such problems but damn that pissed me off.

Thought that would be amusing since it pertained to the subject-I know I thought it was freaking hilarious Mad

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playtoy_18 wrote:
funny,I've been messing with a no crank on a 99 cougar.
Knew it was theft/PATS related-diagnosed the transciever,all my other checks came out fine.
After r&r'ing it,I reprogrammed the customers existing key and a new one.
Still a no start,now with a different code-still for transciever not sending/pcm not recieving.
redid all my checks-in total I redid all my electrical check's about 15 times-as I got different readings almost every time.
In the process I overlay'd a new ground,just to make me feel better.
Finally got it to start-woohoo.
Took out the new key,put in the customer's key to verify and get a fault again.
So I start diagnosing again-the start up was totally unexpected,I had begun to suspect an intermittent pcm issue.
still goofy readings,but then all of a sudden after taking control of the PIDs the light stops when I back out of the system.
So I try to start-it starts..
go through checks again-basically I need something concrete before I will replace a pcm-I need to define the fault and it seems to keep moving.
I can get it to start now and then but when I try to verify by removing key and placing other key in(either one) it will go back again.
This went on for awhile,and I was pretty damn ready to just order a pcm against my better judgement.
Then I notice that the customers existing key had metallic fingernail polish on it. Hadn't paid much attention to it other than when they were handed to me,I was thinking "oh great,if this is their idea of custom i've got some real fun when I start diggin into it,must be some hack job).

Fords key's have an actual transponder in them,not just a resistor.
So I scrape all the fingernail polish off the key,and voila' no more issue.
I won't know for sure till I verify,reverify etc.. tomorrow-since it gave me such problems but damn that pissed me off.

Thought that would be amusing since it pertained to the subject-I know I thought it was freaking hilarious Mad


you did the factory disarm as well right?
Factory Disarm Black/White Driver's Kick Panel or Theft Module

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Have no idea what a factory disarm is-the security module on that vehicle is integral to the PCM.
There is no factory disarm that i'm aware of-the only thing I can do via the scantool is enable customer spare key programming.
As a rule,I always enable customer programming simply because it takes a minimum of 10m for our scantool to get into the security menu.
That way if something goes screwy with the scantool or the key programming defaults for some reason and doesn't work then I don't have to wait another 10m.
There is no black/white wire in the circuit for the transceiver or security circuit..,The ground I overlayed was CKT 91 black/green-before splice 359(which I figured was where the fault lay) on the way to G1.
That is the ground circuit for the transciever itself.

All the circuit checks came back different every time I did them,somtimes okay,sometimes not.

If there is a factory disarm-I would love to know what it is.
None of my classes went over security at all believe it or not-basically had to self teach myself the system.
I'm usually pretty good at navigating the PATS system once I familiarize myself with the vehicle.

Different vehicles utilize different components,modules and routines for the PATS-Ford can't do the same thing the same way on any one vehicle regardless of year,make,model etc..
Drives us nutz as this remains true on most of their systems/vehicles.
I've had times when our Ford engineering hotline didn't even know what was going on,they don't like it when you tell them "Forget it,I'll do it the way I want to since I know that'll work" Very Happy


*It is possible i'm sure to do a bypass similar to the resistor bypass on GM-however i've never tried. It's honestly easier to just price the parts to the service writer and go on to the next vehicle.
If I need too,i'm sure on these older vehicles the customer would much rather prefer bypassing it and my service manager wouldn't mind-but then if it ever needs to go to another dealer for repair then I might severly screw up the guy that works on it after me.
Most tech's I know can't think for themselves very much-if it's not in the book then they don't care.
That and the part's guy would be pissed for not getting the sale. He would rather turn the customer away if they didn't wanna pay for his overpriced parts.
I'm already a troublemaker there because in my mind the customer always comes first-regardless of what we sell him. (My SM loves me though Cool )

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it may or may not be there - i just remember when doing remote starts that IF it has a theft module, you have to trigger the disarm when remote start. think it disarms automatically when unlocking, but with remote start you want to keep the doors locked and the disarm trigger is the way around it.

been quite some time since i did one and my memory is a bit fuzzy. with the transponder keys, i remember having to have both (plus the 3rd that goes into the module -think it was the 555f or something like that) to do the remote start otherwise we ran into the issue of having to reprogram later (we just did it at the time of install with 3 keys).

i know if it has the theft module the easiest place to find that wire was in the drivers kick, which i think is where we get the locks, door trigger, and the like - not at the module itself.

if you do look to find it, test it for (+) after lock and (-) after unlock. if it is there, it will need this (-) during remote start, think it needs to be latched as well but still kinda fuzzy.

if not then even with the correct module for the transponder key it will still be armed and start getting confused because it thinks its still armed, but yet it recognizes the key and says "WTF".

i know i had an older "F" diesel truck in the shop for 3 days because it had an even goofier setup and the dealer was no help and at the time it was brand new so tech support was non existent. it would actually reset the theft system while it was running in remote start. cant remember how we got it to work but i know it was a PITA.

but on that cougar, the theft module i think is tied in with the lock module which is why it is active with the lock, but the disarm wire will deactivate while still keeping the car locked and i do believe that its tied into the PCM, but not controlled by it - if that makes sense. they work hand in hand i guess you could say, kinda like a BCM, but not a full fledged BCM.

hope that kinda helps, but again i am still a bit fuzzy - only been about 6 or 7 years since i did one of those.


SORRY!! didnt mean to get off topic of the thread, but it does kinda pertain to the PITA it is to get around some of the factory anti-theft crap.

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On the cougar,the PCM is the PATS module.
And you have to have a minimum of 2 keys to program the system-if the customer only has one they are required to purchase a 2nd or the PCM will not even program for PATS.
In some cases a PCM reset must even be done for the PATS if you've changed PCM,IC and a couple other things,and anytime that happens-you must have 2 keys.
The cougar does have a central locking module/theft module but it actually has nothing at all to do with the PATS functions.

It's a real PITA-but the car is fixed Very Happy

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playtoy_18 wrote:
On the cougar,the PCM is the PATS module.
And you have to have a minimum of 2 keys to program the system-if the customer only has one they are required to purchase a 2nd or the PCM will not even program for PATS.
In some cases a PCM reset must even be done for the PATS if you've changed PCM,IC and a couple other things,and anytime that happens-you must have 2 keys.
The cougar does have a central locking module/theft module but it actually has nothing at all to do with the PATS functions.

It's a real PITA-but the car is fixed Very Happy


sweet - didnt know it was tied in with the PCM, i was under the impression it was. but ive been out of that game for too long to remember half the crap.

glad you got it fixed.

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