Whipped383 wrote:

I probably have 20k on the motor and been haulin big trailers i dont think its gonna blow

didnt think mine was gonna either - nobody thought the good money spent on all these engines were gonna blow, better to be safe.

have to think what might be causing the noise - is a rod bolt hitting the block? if so, just a matter of time before the cap comes off, and no good comes from that, unless you like windows in your block.

another question is if the counterweights are touching.

the knock gets quieter because as it heats up, the clearance gets bigger - im thinking its a rod or rod bolt.

if it were me, i would have that thing out and go over it with a fine tooth comb - while it still runs.

it may last a long time and nothing might ever happen to it, but thats just a gamble i would not make.

another thing might be the cam, depending on whats in there and how it was installed, you may be hitting a lobe, thats one reason why they clearance around that area - stroker cranks need the room, and i have seen cams that have been hit - when they break, its usually in half, good news is it wont tear up the block usually, bad news is it does crazy damage to your valves, pistons, and even sometimes rods and crank.

get a engine stethoscope and try to pinpoint where the noise is at, that way you have a better idea, if you dont find anything after pulling the pan again, i would pull the motor for a better look.

Whipped383 wrote:

Wow that sucks i have a scat cast in mine but have a knocking noise machine shop says probably a rod hitting the pan (didnt tell me i needed to clearance it) so pulled the pan clearanced it still knocking. So i bought a stroker pan put it on still there now they sayin i gotta have a rod hitting somewhere on the block that wasnt clearanced enough so pans gotta come off again what a pain. im gonna take a .010 feeler gauge between everywhere the rods are clearanced but it seemed to me that the block is clearanced right where the cylinders come to a V? is that right? anyway hope i can find it its been plaugeing me. the wierd thing is the noise is worse when its cold shouldnt things expand and get worse? other wierd thing is noise goes away when you coast (no load on the motor)

You need at least 30 thousanths for PLENTY of room... there are 2 places to clearance on a sbc 383 stroker assy as well as the oil pan(if using the stock one) which you are not, and then the connecting rods need to clear the camshaft lobes on one side(or use stroker clearanced rods like I did in the link below.....
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6525&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

The knocking when cold sounds like a rod bearing clearance issue..... check all the journals with plasti-guage and see what your clearances are... or better yet what were your oil clearances when you assembled it? did you use the windage tray? if so it could be hitting the rotating assy as well since you would have to clearance/modify it as well.

Mine dropped a rod bearing...and made a ticking noise for a while...then a knocking noise...then....no noise.

I agree on the rod cap hitting on anything, its going to break a bolt at some point & then its going to get ugly quick, As for clearance I try to use .035 as a general guide for clearance to the rotating assembly, .010 is way too close, That block will move & distort under load, and you really dont know how much. I had a well built V-6 that was SC, that stretched & broke a rod bolt, then chucked the ropd cap @ 20 psi & 5600 rpm, By the time I felt the 1st vibration it had thrown 3 rods through the pan, It was ugly, there was nothing left but the heads.

Boosted