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lookee what I got on friday
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Post lookee what I got on friday 
this is the art morrison frame for my 55 chevy...











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Post That a full frame? 
Or a halfback? Not too bad looking.

Was watching the power block on Spike or whatever channel, on extreme 4x4 they were building a Jeep from scratch. In this episode they had a frame that looked just like the one you have. They said the best way to do one of those is to pretty much build the entire vehicle onto it so you can get all the holes and add-ons welded on, then disassemble the whole thing and send the frame off for coating. Course they were adding on roll bars and other protective parts so it would be a lot more important for them.

What are your plans for it coating-wise? Would be pretty slick to get the whole frame ceramic-coated. I saw a 76 Caddy that the owner had the whole frame chromed but was kinda bad looking, but on a 55 show piece it would look pretty good. The Caddy was one of those hopper cars, and the bonehead owner also had the trunk lined with batteries, along the back of the trunk instead of the front. As a result, there was a crack on both sides of the body that started at the rear glass heading straight down as they didn't take the weight of the batteries combined with the stress of hopping the nose into account. The trunk was literally coming off the car.

If you don't go with ceramic, then I'd either powder coat it black, or body color.

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Post Ceramic will not work. 
Ceramic coatings are not flexible enough for a metal part that will bend and flex. Stress cracks will lead to flaking. Finding someone with an oven to bake the ceramic onto the frame will also be a challenge. Powder paint would be better, but again you have to find someone with an oven large enough to bake it on. Also, the "faraday cage" effect will impact the electrostatic application of powder coatings like powder paint and ceramic powder on box frames like in the pictures above. The coating will be thin or nonexistent in most of the inside 90* corners, right where you want it to be!

You might want to consider one of the brush-on coatings from Por-15 or Eastwood. The comparison article between the Eastwood coating and POR 15 is interesting, but the auto restoration folks often use the hardnose paints from POR rather than the "15" product for frames and chassis mentioned in the article. Even though these can be thinned and sprayed on, you get much better coverage on the irregular contours and shapes of a frame if you brush it on, and the coatings do not like to be shaken or agitated much either. Most instruct the user to stir, NOT SHAKE the paint to mix.

http://www.por15.com/

http://www.eastwoodco.com/

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852

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Post That kind of $$$ layout 
and because you live here in the Northeast like me, nothing other than an epoxy-based industrial coating would touch it! After all the brackets, holes, tabs, and mods are done, a near white blast and coating with say a 6-8 mils of epoxy coating. Will take the elements and road shrapnel. POR-15 is great for a DIY, and powder is OK, but you will have some trouble with it on several areas of the frame.

So Steve, would did you have them do with the exhaust ports on the cross-member? They're f-in HUGE! Laying NYC sewer pipe through them! LOL! Nice choice on the rear! Cool

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Post Man, put me in my place! 
Heh heh... I didn't even think about the oven issue, and was unaware that ceramic would flake off. Good to know stuff. Thanks!

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well since the powder coater is a customer of the shop and loves the project he's already making room after we test fit it (ain't gonna powdercoat till we know we don't need to redo anything). I'm leaning towards a dark grey color like the color of my Z06's factory wheels. Outright black will show dirt, a metallic dark grey will be a lil more forgiving and with the factory blue-grey ish color I'm thinking it'll work nicer than black.

as for the pipes, dual 3 inch, I'm not alone putting big power through it, a few other guys are using crate 502's 540's etc. which all need serious exhaust. The techs at Gale Banks thinks my lil 400 with no intercoolers will hit a solid 700 at the wheels on 91 octane, which leaves me room for fun with 93, and if I want to drop some 100 in, well I should hit over 800...of course traction isn't going to be my friend.

As for elements, only elements it might see would be a possible powertour in say....5-10 years if its ever done, car is going to be a nightmare in the rain so I'm gonna avoid that at all costs. I think by the time its done I'm gonna pick up a nice enclosed trailer, just not worth the risks of messing it up.

Gives an idea of what I'm working with now, its a 10 ft body, its all there, all solid, but not worthy of whats going under it at the moment. I don't want to do this half assed, so its all in or nothing....and the frame got the ball rolling, now if only more people would die and bring me bunches of cash that I'd need to spend....





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Post Gruesome... 
Gives an idea of what I'm working with now, its a 10 ft body, its all there, all solid, but not worthy of whats going under it at the moment. I don't want to do this half assed, so its all in or nothing....and the frame got the ball rolling, now if only more people would die and bring me bunches of cash that I'd need to spend....

Still though...

With that frame, I don't think traction is going to be as big a problem as you think. Looks like you have a 4-link rear, which is very tuneable for weight transfer and traction. I'd be looking for a place to mount wheelie bars.

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Post Re: Gruesome... 
Speeder wrote:
Gives an idea of what I'm working with now, its a 10 ft body, its all there, all solid, but not worthy of whats going under it at the moment. I don't want to do this half assed, so its all in or nothing....and the frame got the ball rolling, now if only more people would die and bring me bunches of cash that I'd need to spend....

Still though...

With that frame, I don't think traction is going to be as big a problem as you think. Looks like you have a 4-link rear, which is very tuneable for weight transfer and traction. I'd be looking for a place to mount wheelie bars.


its actually a 4 bar rear....more for handling than straight out launching, but the links are somewhat adjustable, they want me to closely monitor the bushing and rod ends though. Luckily I'm not planning on regularly racing the car so it should hold up. They said flat out that the wisest end if I was regularly racing was a 4 link, but for a street car this was the ticket, the 4 link for a drag car. This is going to be more of a showcar cruiser than a drag strip brawler.

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Post OT - just curious 
Y2KLimited - ever go out to the Walt Whitman mall parking lot on Friday nights with your rods?

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not in a long time. soon the 55 won't be drivable and honestly its not exactly show worthy, but the truck or vette should fit in ok. The 69 was sold back in october to pay for the frame and put a dent into the rest.

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Y2KLimited wrote:
The 69 was sold back in october to pay for the frame and put a dent into the rest.


Crying or Very sad I remember now .....I asked the wife if she was interested in it....but the absence of A/C killed the possibility of any deal Crying or Very sad

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women.....thinkin muscle cars need AC...thats what the windows and the astro vents on the floor were for...well, combined with teh right pedal...

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