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L31 Timing Chain Cover
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tracy.reich wrote:
If you look at the plastic cover there are 2 protrusions coming out of the bottom left side, the one closest to the bottom is for the threaded brass insert and the other is for the sensor.


What is the purpose of he threaded brass insert? Is it just a plug or does it have a function?

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It gives you a metal threaded insert to tighten the CKP holding bolt into instead of the plastic cover.

Boosted

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Boosted-Z71 wrote:
It gives you a metal threaded insert to tighten the CKP holding bolt into instead of the plastic cover.

Boosted


Well that is nice. Prevents you from stripping the plastic like you do when overtightening the distributor cap. One engineers folley is anothers diligence.

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Well if you lean on it really hard you can still spin the brass insert in the plastic, Happens on Ford stuff alot.

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Hope this works This should be the inside of the 2 covers.




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Stealth97 wrote:
Boosted-Z71 wrote:
It gives you a metal threaded insert to tighten the CKP holding bolt into instead of the plastic cover.

Boosted


Well that is nice. Prevents you from stripping the plastic like you do when overtightening the distributor cap. One engineers folley is anothers diligence.


hey now!

i resemble that remark Laughing

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ThunderTT wrote:
Stealth97 wrote:
Boosted-Z71 wrote:
It gives you a metal threaded insert to tighten the CKP holding bolt into instead of the plastic cover.

Boosted


Well that is nice. Prevents you from stripping the plastic like you do when overtightening the distributor cap. One engineers folley is anothers diligence.


hey now!

i resemble that remark Laughing


More than just you. I seem to remember James B. had his fix for his brothers truck (Dab of silicone in the threads?), and maybe rat or somebody also went through this. Boosted said the same thing, etc. etc. I've never had a problem, course I'm usually not the one setting the cap. I'm usually checking the CMP retard and Kevin drops the dist in and tightens the cap. Good thing I havent touched mine, surely I would have broken it once.

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Post This looks pretty straightforward 
Doesn't look difficult at all!

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Post Re: This looks pretty straightforward 
hquick wrote:
Doesn't look difficult at all!


i agree. i wonder why the aftermarket has not made anything? wouldnt think it would be harder than a little extra material and some machine work. couldnt be harder than making a 2 piece.

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s10mods wrote:
Hope this works This should be the inside of the 2 covers.




Good work! All that from what I posted? Damn S10mods, you are really bright!! Kudos! Photobucket has a tutorial, right? Did you use it?

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As I recall from an article somewhere the old covers are not deep enough to allow for the cam retention ring. Just another thing to check out.

Boosted

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Post Extension 
Easy enough to make an extension ring

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Stealth97 wrote:
s10mods wrote:
Hope this works This should be the inside of the 2 covers.




Good work! All that from what I posted? Damn S10mods, you are really bright!! Kudos! Photobucket has a tutorial, right? Did you use it?


I dident read anything I just figured to copy and paste the img link here. Then it worked. I have some computer skills.

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I woulden't think that the aftermarket cover would need the 2 pegs that are on the plastic cover. The old style blocks use pins in the block for location. It only needs 10 bolts.

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Post Cam button 
If you are not running a Roller cam do you have to run a cam button in the old 2pc block? I know that I am right now, but is it necessary? If not then I can just use the plastic cover and move on with my project. Then maybe replace the cover later if one becomes available.

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I would always use a cam button on a non-roller cam.

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yeah, the whole purpose of the cam button is to prevent cam walk. the better able you are to control any part of the cam and lifters, the happier your motor will be.
just think, if the cam moves out just 1/16th of an inch, it may not have alot of effect on the lifters, but the dist. gear will change its contact point and throw your timing off from where you want it.
i have seen over 1/8th inch of cam movement in some motors, and that makes a HUGE difference in performance, esp. in the upper RPM.

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Man that sucks. I guess i wait, or try to come up with something. I thought about modifing a LT1 timing cover. at least I can start with the bottom half (withch i think is the same up to the point of the dist drive.)cut it and weld parts from a aftermarked alum piece, or something like that. I have access to a tig welder but not to a mill. so if it's something i can weld up then i am good to go.

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I have seen older gen SB send the cam gear into the cover & eat on it quite severly, Thunder is right about the dist, gear that mis-alignment also contributes to spark scatter as well. Genearlly the more cam / valve spring pressure you have the worse it will walk in the block, its also relative to how good the cam bore is truely parallel to the crank.

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Post Maybe this? 
How about this? the hub is just steel the magnet is in teh sensor.What if you weld tabs to the outside of the pully? (in the correct location of course.) witch would make the pully one way fit. will the bigger diameter effect the siginal? I'm not sure but i think it would because the on pulse would be longer. if you kept them the same length as the orig hub then the off pulse would be longer. maybe moding a pully would be easier that fabing a cover?? .


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