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98 GMC Twin Turbo with 12200411 PCM--- It's Alive
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Stealth, There is not much to write about. You guys are giving me too much praise. This really is pretty much a pin for pin install, except for the 2 A/C wires. I am not really worried about the A/C wiring---in its most basic configuration all I really need is to control the A/C relay. I am not saying it won't control the A/C, I think it should be fine, but I haven't messed with the A/C yet. 350SS is putting the finishing touches on a wiring file that should work on 98-2000 GMT 400 Vortecs.
Edit: as of Jan 07, all 5 of the A/C wires are connected to the 411 and the A/C works properly.



Last edited by Lextech on Sat Apr 14, 2007 8:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Am I reading this correctly that you are using the stock 305 short block in this build? Am I the only one who thinks this is crazy.....my guess is that you'll get boost fever and blow it up. (I know I would) Just wondering why there isnt a forged bottom end in there made for boost?

Either way you build it, this is an awesome build that is teaching alot of people what can be done DO IT YOURSELF, with readily available parts like the 411 computer. Its really a plethora of GM parts put together in old school form as a cost effective alternative of building a Gen 3 engine and installing it. Way to go!!!!

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BTW Jeff, what are the specs on the turbos you are running?

Max

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Awesome dude, I am just going to have to install a 411 PCM and grab a 01-01 truck def. file for Tunercat so I can tune the PCM.

I have a 1997 truck so the pinout will be slightly different, but that 6200 rpm rev is good news for a lot of people.

Good work, that turbo system is a work or art.

peace
Hog

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Nothing wrong with the stock bottom end of the Vortec L31. In fact it is pretty damn stout IMHO. Sure the pistons are not forged, but with good conservative tuning, all should be fine. Having it make 350-400rwhp through boost is pretty impressive.

Hog, I'm sourcing out my PCM right now. This should be fun for all of us.

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Guys---I left the stock engine in it for the mockup and fabrication. I have never attempted anything like this before. I did not want to learn how to tune on a fresh/nice 355. This engine is for my learning curve--pure and simple. The turbos are from a 85-86 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe, they are Garrett T-3 60A/R compressor side and 63A/R turbine side. As near as I can tell the engine went to about 6200. My stock tach only goes to 6000 and it was past that---I know that is not very scientific.

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Lextech wrote:
Guys---I left the stock engine in it for the mockup and fabrication. I have never attempted anything like this before. I did not want to learn how to tune on a fresh/nice 355. This engine is for my learning curve--pure and simple. The turbos are from a 85-86 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe, they are Garrett T-3 60A/R compressor side and 63A/R turbine side. As near as I can tell the engine went to about 6200. My stock tach only goes to 6000 and it was past that---I know that is not very scientific.


Even with tach error, I know that is over 5800 rpm, tahts good enough for me my friend, 411 PCm it is.

peace
Hog

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Lextech wrote:
Guys---I left the stock engine in it for the mockup and fabrication. I have never attempted anything like this before. I did not want to learn how to tune on a fresh/nice 355. This engine is for my learning curve--pure and simple. The turbos are from a 85-86 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe, they are Garrett T-3 60A/R compressor side and 63A/R turbine side. As near as I can tell the engine went to about 6200. My stock tach only goes to 6000 and it was past that---I know that is not very scientific.


Ahhhh that makes perfect sense. Ride on!!!!!

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Lextech. I looked at your pictures thoroughly and I must say, I am superbly impressed! Those headers are exactly what I had in my thoughts for how the turbo and downpipe should be. In the middle of the header. Great work.

The turbos from the thunderbird coupe are alright for the hp I'd think. Hope they spool good. Been interested to hear what you say about that.

Questions I have:

How much boost are you planning on running and control? Just wastegate spring on those and leave it at that? Is that how they are? You have a gauge and you saw the peak? Can you tell me when it gets 1psi and when it hits max? I'm very curious.

Are you planning on upping the boost on those turbos and running race gas? They make newer turbochargers that are slightly bigger that flow like 1.6 times the air of those things I think. Would really be insane then!

I've heard when tuning a boosted vehicle (especially turbo), I think you need to remove some timing from the top end. I believe they said past the torque peak it needs timing removed (you need an Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge I bet) and more fuel (as boost ramps up).

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Stealth, I am running about 4lbs of boost right now on the stock 1bar tune. I know that is not to wise, but I just can't help myself. It is amazing what 4psi on a 305 will do. I purchased EFILive from Wait4Me, they told if I purchased from them, they would set me up with a base file for a 2 bar Operating system. Today makes 8 days and I am still waiting for them to send the 2bar tune. Other than the ceramic coating, I have about 350.00 into the 2 turbos. I know there are better options for the turbos, but this is a low buck deal. I just wanted something to do after work last winter instead of watch TV and I had never messed with any turbo stuff. I haven't really payed attention to what rpm the turbos come in. Next time I drive it I will check---It's supposed to be rainy here for the next few days, so I can't check it too soon. I have a Hallman in cab manual boost controller. I probably won't go over 10psi on the 305. These turbos are said to be good for up to about 18psi. I may step up to better turbos sometime in the far future. This was not a max power project, just something to drive back and forth to work in the summer and have alot of fun with. I can't wait to have a boosted tune in it and up the boost to about 10psi.

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Sweet. I think 4psi is fine on the stock tune. Just get your safety stuff installed.

You going to throw stickies on it and go to the 1/4 mi?

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Compressor map for those turbos and information

Those turbos are capable of about 300 hp each maxed out. thats like 20 lbs of boost out of them maybe more. So two of them on that V8 should do around 600 hp max. Its probably making less then that though.




Hope this helps.

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Stealth---Thanks, I've seen that map before, but couldn't decide if "Super 60" pertained to the turbos I have. I probably will go to the track sometime in the future. I'm not much of a track guy--I enjoy it, but I just don't go to often. I have been eyeing up the new M/T 16" ET Radials and new style Weld rims, but that's gonna hafta wait. I also need to do something about my hellacious wheel hop. Competition Engineering has their "Slide A Link" kit that should fit my application. I have flipped the axle ( axle on top of springs ) on the truck and I need to call their tech dept and see if they think it will fit, or maybe they would sell me a raw kit and I could build it myself.

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Lextech wrote:
Stealth---Thanks, I've seen that map before, but couldn't decide if "Super 60" pertained to the turbos I have. I probably will go to the track sometime in the future. I'm not much of a track guy--I enjoy it, but I just don't go to often. I have been eyeing up the new M/T 16" ET Radials and new style Weld rims, but that's gonna hafta wait. I also need to do something about my hellacious wheel hop. Competition Engineering has their "Slide A Link" kit that should fit my application. I have flipped the axle ( axle on top of springs ) on the truck and I need to call their tech dept and see if they think it will fit, or maybe they would sell me a raw kit and I could build it myself.


On the wheelhop, ask James about his lateral traction bars. They look cool and they work good too.
In teh mean time you can try some leaf spring clamps. You can use a few u- bolts that fit nicely around teh spring pack and use a pice of flat bar with 2 holes drilled through it to allow the 2 threaded ends of the u bolts to pass through. Simply place the clamps around the spring pack and around teh thick lower load helper spring and tighten them down. The spring clamps make the helper spring act like a traction bar and help keep the spring from wrapping up into an S shaped and then springing back thus causing the wheelhop..
Cheap yet effective. The clamps will make teh rear ride a bit rougher but whehop will be graetly reduced. They will also lower the rear ride height a bit.

Worth a try for the few dollars they cost.



BTW an amazing fact, a turbo spinning at 153,000 rpm is turning 2,550 times per second. Simply amazing.

Would you mind telling me how much you snagged the Ramjet 350 intake for $$$??


peace
PAuly

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Thanks Hog-- I do have that same 2bar MAP sensor, it is a direct fit for the Ramjet. I'm waiting to put it in until the 2bar tune shows up. I have thought about the spring clamp deal, but with my driving season quickly coming to an end, I have some time to think it over. Spring clamps would be more "stealthy" and I like the thought of that.

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Hey guys, I've been lurking here for awhile. I had to register so I can ask some questions about this build!

Lextech, how does the Ramjet Manifold work with the factory wiring/sensors? Is there a spot for everything? I never did an official tally, but there's a lot of crap going into/out of/around the factory intake. Or can you turn that stuff off (emissions, cough) and forget about it?

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BeefFajitas wrote:
Hey guys, I've been lurking here for awhile. I had to register so I can ask some questions about this build!

Lextech, how does the Ramjet Manifold work with the factory wiring/sensors? Is there a spot for everything? I never did an official tally, but there's a lot of crap going into/out of/around the factory intake. Or can you turn that stuff off (emissions, cough) and forget about it?


BeefFajitas, where do you live?

I live in California and my emissions test is coming due this year. I have a non factory intake, but not one as obvious as the RamJet. I have a mercruiser marine spec otherwise known to this board and through Pecos (our supplier), as "The Marine Intake". Vortec EFI intake with no EGR provision.

I need to fab up an EGR somehow to this intake sometime soon. I have approximately 90 days from today.

This image of how LexTech mounted his coil pretty much mimicks stock and what I tried to do as well. The more stock appearing, the better.



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You will have to delete EGR or use a divorced EGR like the LS style truck engines which will plug into the harness, but then you will need to plumb it up. The Throttle body flange has to be machined at 90 degrees, because it faces down a little and will not fit GMT 400 Vortecs. When it is machined, the flange goes away, so you need to weld up the face and machine again. You also need to clearance the compressor bracket and use a swivel type thermostat housing. If I did it again, I would have raised the A/C compressor about an inch and installed a longer belt. You also need to reclock the throttlebody cable arm and rework the cable bracket. YOU will also need to install individual injector connectors. It looks like a bolt on, but it is not. But it is definately worth the trouble.

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In the picture I posted above, where did you get those turbo inlet elbows? You fabricated them?

Also, on the turbo inlet elbow (which looks almost brown) there is a fitting. what is it used for? *Edit* Think I figured it out. Stock IAC or something like that. I remember that plug having to go on the air inlet. So you decided it would go there. Cool.

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Those are the stock Ford elbows. I cut them at the flange and rotated them to get the air filters to sit level and then welded the flange back on. The IAT sensor is what you see in the pic in the black elbow. The brown elbow is the exh. outlet, I welded 3/8" bolts to the downpipes for a heat shield to mount to. I still have to make the shields. The stock Ford exhaust elbows were too ugly and bulky. I used exhaust housings off of a Volvo ( I think) They are Garrett housings with a 3 bolt flange and are much cleaner than the Ford exh. housings.

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