RegisterSearchFAQMemberlistUsergroupsLog in
Reply to topic Page 3 of 60
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 58, 59, 60  Next
Vortec L31 MARINE MANIFOLD project! Q&A
Author Message
Reply with quote
Post Re: Healthy dousing from a spray can of ether (Starting Flui 
Pecos wrote:
The marine fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is believed to be standard GM issue. I remember Rob mentioned a while back he was working on identifying cross references for automotive equivalents for the FPR components. Maybe he, or someone else with access to GM parts catalogs (Taylor?) can chime in here, and possibly offer the automotive service proceedures for the filter too.

alright, do you know how to take it apart at all.. Laughing

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
Here are some pics of what i did for the brake booster if anyone is interested. I used a 3/8 90 and a 1/2 staright pipe fitting.



Now its off to get it powder coated, ill post some pics of the powder coating. All that im waiting on now is tb gasket and fuel line and its ready to go on Smile

Reply with quote
Post  
Anonymous wrote:
Here are some pics of what i did for the brake booster if anyone is interested. I used a 3/8 90 and a 1/2 staright pipe fitting.



Now its off to get it powder coated, ill post some pics of the powder coating. All that im waiting on now is tb gasket and fuel line and its ready to go on Smile


oops that was my post forgot to log in

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
Is that TB opening Larger? Looks bigger than Stock?

View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website AIM Address ICQ Number
Reply with quote
Post  
Cannon wrote:
Is that TB opening Larger? Looks bigger than Stock?

I just measured the stock throttle body and the stock throttle body was 72mm at the base. I then measured the tb that came with the marine manifold and it measured 72 also. I measured the upper for the marine manifold and got 75mm, im not sure what the measurement on the upper is on the stock truck manifold.. the followin was measured with some crappy calipers but good enough to give a basic idea

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post Houston we have a problem 
I was looking at the stock throttle body and i started messing with the stock throttle body after i did some measurements. Well i found that the stock truck throttle body doesn't clear the fuel rail, the piece the cruise control connects to hits the rail. I only see 2 solutions that i can think of. 1 grind off the part of the throttle lever and then you are without cruise control, or 2 use a throttle body spacer. I had a throttle body spacer sitting in my garage so i put that on and the throttle body on top and it clears like that. The only problem is i think that the spacer will act as a restruction and could ultimately cause a loss in performance. any other thoughts?

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
I took some picture of mine freshly painted with my BBK 80MM POS TB sitting on top. Had the same clearance issues. I did not have the BBK spacer under it and figured that would solve it. Looks like a spacer will be needed for the stock TB too then. Do I think a spacer would hurt? nah.......

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
James B. wrote:
I took some picture of mine freshly painted with my BBK 80MM POS TB sitting on top. Had the same clearance issues. I did not have the BBK spacer under it and figured that would solve it. Looks like a spacer will be needed for the stock TB too then. Do I think a spacer would hurt? nah.......

I wouldn't think a spacer that didn't have the spiral in the middle would hurt performance, but the one i have is one of those spiraled ones which i think could be a restriction and cause turbulance. that was my basis for saying it could hurt performance. What are your thoughts on the spiraled space compared to just a spacer?

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post So long as 
rcfast wrote:
James B. wrote:
I took some picture of mine freshly painted with my BBK 80MM POS TB sitting on top. Had the same clearance issues. I did not have the BBK spacer under it and figured that would solve it. Looks like a spacer will be needed for the stock TB too then. Do I think a spacer would hurt? nah.......

I wouldn't think a spacer that didn't have the spiral in the middle would hurt performance, but the one i have is one of those spiraled ones which i think could be a restriction and cause turbulance. that was my basis for saying it could hurt performance. What are your thoughts on the spiraled space compared to just a spacer?


the spacer internal diameter is the same diameter as the TB it isn't going to make a difference on whether or not it has the spirals carved into the side. It'll run just fine.

View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Reply with quote
Post  
Well i did a little bit of comparing since i have the stock manifold off and the marine one. The first thing i did was compare the height of the two manifolds, both manifolds have the same overall height. So the marine one isn't any taller. It also appears that you can just bolt the coil right where the plates where on the marine manifold. I haven't actually physically bolted it up but by the eye it looks like it should bolt up without that plate. One thing im thinking however is that the wire harness for the connections for the coil will most likely need to be extended to reach it. The coil wire that goes to the cap might also need to be longer, i think that one might reach however. Another thing about locating the coil there is that is where the EVAP would usually sit on the stock manifold. So with the coil placement there im not sure what would be done about evap. it was mentioned about the wire bridge not working, i wasn't sure if it was refering to just the one but after looking it looks like neither will work. I think the one on the passenger side can be modified so it will still serve some function, however the one on the driverside will probably just get discarded. It doesn't seem like that should make much of a difference and to be honest im not sure if the one on the passenger side will be needed either. Any other thoughts? I will try to see if i can find any other differences. Is there anything anyone wants me to look for between the two?

John

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
Also i cannot get the map sensor to fit in with that o-ring on it if my life depended on it. Everytime i try to put it in it pushes the o-ring and gasket all together and makes a mess of everything causing it to not seal. After reading around on ls1tech about some of the hybrids i think i might also have another idea for the evap

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
If you need to find a place for the EVAP purge solenoid, it might help to know the TBI™ EVAP purge solenoid (on the 95 models I know it is PWM capable) has a single 1/4" inlet and a single 1/4" outlet, so it should be able to be located anywhere and the plumbing would be easy.

View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Reply with quote
Post  
PSWired wrote:
If you need to find a place for the EVAP purge solenoid, it might help to know the TBI™ EVAP purge solenoid (on the 95 models I know it is PWM capable) has a single 1/4" inlet and a single 1/4" outlet, so it should be able to be located anywhere and the plumbing would be easy.

Ya i was looking at something like that. The one i was actually thinking of is one off a ls1 car. the connector appears to be the same, i was going to take my evap to the parts store and compare it to a ls1 evap. The ls1 evap is divorced and looks like you could just mount it to the charcol (sp) canister and run a vacuum line to it. You would have to do a little work with the wire harness but i don't think it would be all that bad. I think thats the route i might go.

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
Ok, I'm not familiar with the carEVAP purge solenoids, but the gen III truck solenoids mount directly on the intake and have a quick disconnect fitting on them, and a much larger purge line. I have a feeling the purge line is bigger since the canister is mounted by the tank in the rear of the vehicle. Also the gen IIIs have a vent solenoid as well to seal the system for automatic leakdown testing. I'm pretty familair with the truck EVAP system if you have any questions about how it's plumbed, etc.

View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Reply with quote
Post O-ring and MAP sensor 
By chance do you have power coat inside the intake manifold sensor bore? That would reduce the inside diameter enough to require the use of a smaller 0-ring over the MAP sensor. It is a tight fit to begin with.

Just a thought

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
Wanted to bring this back to the top. Anyone have thiers installed yet?
When do we get to find out about pricing and recources for this purchase?

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post Re: O-ring and MAP sensor 
Pecos wrote:
By chance do you have power coat inside the intake manifold sensor bore? That would reduce the inside diameter enough to require the use of a smaller 0-ring over the MAP sensor. It is a tight fit to begin with.

Just a thought

oops i didn't see this reply until now. There was no powdercoat in the hole, I got it in though. The way i did it was i removed the gasket that was on the MAP sensor and then placed the o-ring over the gasket. Then with a small flatblade i put the gasket and oring into the hole. Everything stayed positioned how it was supposed to be. Then i just pressed the map sensor into the gasket that was already seated in, It worked out well.

As for when someone is going to get one installed, i should have mine in real soon. I currently have no engine in my truck, once i do it will be in. I'm just waiting on my engine builder for the engine so im not sure how long it will be

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
Quote:
As for when someone is going to get one installed, i should have mine in real soon. I currently have no engine in my truck, once i do it will be in. I'm just waiting on my engine builder for the engine so im not sure how long it will be


I know exactly what you mean. The machine shop boring my block is taking weeks. I would go pick it up and tak it someplace else, but I have to borrow a truck to go and get it.

View user's profile Send private message Yahoo Messenger
Reply with quote
Post  
Ru wrote:
Quote:
As for when someone is going to get one installed, i should have mine in real soon. I currently have no engine in my truck, once i do it will be in. I'm just waiting on my engine builder for the engine so im not sure how long it will be


I know exactly what you mean. The machine shop boring my block is taking weeks. I would go pick it up and tak it someplace else, but I have to borrow a truck to go and get it.

I have come to the conclusion thats how most machine shops are Laughing

View user's profile Send private message
Reply with quote
Post  
Alright well as some of you know the stock location to mount the coil is no longer there, it is ocupied by 2 injectors. The coil bracket itself comes with one of the brackets that is on the lower manifold, there are two problems with mounting it there however: 1. If you are going to cut the cruise control off the throttle body so you don't have to run a spacer the snorkel will hit the coil, so you have to use a throttle body spacer to mount the coil there. Problem 2 is the stock plug wire isn't long enough to reach the distributor if you mount it there.

There are a few different solutions to mounting the coil so it could work. You could custom make a longer coil wire and mount it on the bracket that comes with the manifold, you could look at alternate mounting locations such as the fire wall, or you could turn the coil on its side so its pointing towards the firewall and mount it where the original bracket was. To mount it sideways you will have to custom make a bracket, this is the route i decided to go. I decided that since i have the two brackets that came with the manifold the most effective way would be to modify both the brackets to make a single bracket for the coil. I got started on doing this today and here are the steps i took.

The first thing i did was weld all the holes on just one of the brackets, I then ground it flat. After that i figured out how i wanted this bracket to sit on the other bracket and cut it occordingly.


Here's two closer pictures of the welded and cut bracket. I also rounded the top of it where i cut it to help make it appear stock.



Here are some pictures of the coil mounted to the bracket, I welded the one set of holes that the coil would usually mount into to cover them so i can drill and tap in the middle of the bracket instead of off to the side. This is the general position for the coil on the bracket.




After i drill and tap the bracket i welded im going to weld it to the un-modified bracket in a position like this. After it is welded i will smooth everything out and paint the whole thing. This bracket should look stock. The coil plug wires should reach (I hope) and the heatsink faces the passenger fender like stock. Here are the rest of the pics





What do you guys think

View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:
Reply to topic Page 3 of 60
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4 ... 58, 59, 60  Next
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum