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After reinstalling my LT1 it won't start
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Post After reinstalling my LT1 it won't start 
After a minor fender bender on my right front I decided to re-seal the entire engine since the radiator core support, radiator and other front end pieces had to come out anyway. It has 228,000 miles and I was dripping everywhere. I took the engine out and had very little trouble with that part of my project. Installing it was a bit more of a challenge. I couldn't get it to fire off. Not even a pop. It went back to the new Duralast Optispark distributor and the wire harness that came with it. The wires were out of sequence. I put my old one back in, checked the wiring diagrams, I have the entire shop manuals, and it fired. However it only fires off and seems to starve for fuel. In my initial engine work I put in a new ignition control module and coil so I think the ignition part is OK. I can actually hear the air intake sucking out. My manuals give great information but not a simple diagnoses. After 7 months of this project it is discouraging to run into this. If it didn't have all the electronics I could take care of it. Any help? I'll get to the variable power steering later.

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What's your fuel pressure?

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Post After reinstalling my LT1 it won't start 
I'm an old school mechanic and don't have all the new engine equipment. So I don't have a fuel pressure gauge for this fuel injection. I do have a code reader and that doesn't give me any blinks at all.

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You need a fuel pressure gauge, they are $30 for a cheap kit

Is this an OBD 1 94-95 car or the OBD2 1996 model?

Is there a security chip in the key? Is there a security light that is illuminated?

This link used to have all the GM security information, but has recently been taken down
http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/ST9303l.pdf

These iron headed GEN 2 LT1's use the same 191º/196º 0.412"/0/428" 111ºLSA roller cam that out 1996-2002 Vortec 305/350 trucks use.

GEN 2 SBC
Iron headed LT1 350 was rated at 260hp@5000rpm/330lb/ft torque@2400rpm
Iron headed L99 4.3 265cid in the 94-96 Caprice was 200hp@5000rpm/240lb/ft torque@2400rpm
GEN 1-E SBC
Iron headed Vortec 350 L31 trucks rated at 255hp@4600rpm/330lb/ft torque@2800rpm
Iron head Vortec 305 L30 truck engine was rated at 230hp@5000rpm/285lb/ft torque

All 4 of those engines use the exact same roller lifter cam and 1.5:1 rockers.

peace
Hog

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Hog is right you definitely need a mechanical gauge, but he is also right about the security, if your key has the little pellet in the center take a ohm meter and read the ohm of the chip then get the correct resistor and cut the wire going to the key cylinder and splice the resistor inline and it'll bypass the security

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Mine is a 1994 Buick Roadmaster Estate wagon. I can't believe I didn't include that in my initial post. This car was running perfect on May 2 of 2016 when the lovely lady decided the right front of my car looked better under her SUV rear bumper. The key does have the security chip and it never gave any trouble. Would having the PCM out of the car for 5 months loose some of it's program? When the car fires off for that short spurt it sounds like it's old self. I just came in from the garage and the Pass Key light is lit on the dash. When I fired it off it ran an extra 3 seconds over what it has been.

I took my code reader and tried it in my other 94 Estate wagon and I can't get any codes from that either. I am going to call the manufacturer and see if there is certain way to get the code reader to work. If I had that I could probably solve this. It seems as if the vacuum builds up and shuts something down or the oil pressure. They are both intertwined on the back of the intake manifold. When I did my check list to start up I missed the plug for the large vacuum actuator that is part of the fuel return. Just a thought.

Thanks for your help. We may get this running yet..

I just got off the phone with Innova Electronics to ask about this code reader. If there is a Climate Control Computer in the car it renders this code reader inoperative. Some product.

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