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93 toyota 4wd /03 4.8L and 4L60e / NP241C transplant project
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Post 93 toyota 4wd /03 4.8L and 4L60e / NP241C transplant project 


and the redneck way of removing a cab


started removing the unnecessary wires and labeled what i needed to hook up to the toyota wiring harness

here is the 05 4L60e I built (that was completely destroyed internally) and replaced about everything except the case.

I dropped the front diff down and it would still not clear the oil pan. so i installed a 2010 corvette oil pan, windage tray and pickup





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That ought to be a fun toy when it's all together. I might note that the computer for that engine can handle electric fans, which will help with clearance.

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then was replacing my upper and lower a arm bushings and noticed the left front a arm was bent(the left had to have hit something hard) and the frame is bent as well.
I replaced the lower a arm and bushings and will have to have the frame straightened.


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Speeder wrote:
That ought to be a fun toy when it's all together. I might note that the computer for that engine can handle electric fans, which will help with clearance.

yes E FANS will definitely be run by the ecm on this one.

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Hate to say it, but since you found that the frame is bent I would stop all work immediately and take it to the frame shop. One, you don't want to do all the work and find it can't be fixed. Two, you don't want to set everything up, just to find that the frame work caused everything to shift out far enough that you have to redo the work.

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yes when I found that It was bent all progress halted. I am now in the mode to get it into a rolling chassis and take to frame shop. My uncle works at a body shop and is coming over tomorrow to give me an idea of what I need to do from here or the next step with the frame. Wasn't expecting this but once it's done I'm looking forward to continuing on with it. Advanced adapters told me the LS motor just wouldn't work.... I wanted to see for myself.

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Missing driver's side transmission alignment dowel.. Razz

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stroker97k1500 wrote:
Advanced adapters told me the LS motor just wouldn't work.... I wanted to see for myself.


Yes, companies that sell kits will say that about swaps they don't sell kits for, especially if they sell a kit to put something else in your vehicle.

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CrazyHoe wrote:
Missing driver's side transmission alignment dowel.. Razz

Lol good eye there Ben
There's a 50/50 chance that I will get a replacement dowl pin :p

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Jealous, I had an 85 Toyota with the solid front axle. I wanted to do the same thing except put a ford into it. With the engine you are using there isn't a distributor. I sold that truck, and we also sold the 94 Toyota. We needed 4wd were we lived in Montana, especially for winter. The 97 Chevy is what replaced the 85 Toyota. We are having a blast of winter today. -31 Celsius with the wind chill. There was 22 inches of snow on the roof of our trailer. We shoveled it off today.

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What kind of paint did you use on the frame? Looks close to a factory sort of semi-flat appearance... looks good. Was thinking about powder coat on mine. I hate how GM was using that stupid wax coating on frames in the 90s.

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I tried rustolem first but didn't like it so I bought regular generic ACE Hardware gloss black enamel spray paint and dried quickly and seemed durable.

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frame is straight within 1/16" and have to measure wheel center to wheel center next but in the meantime i made some progress.
the exhaust going inside the frame and finding headers is supposedly the hardest to deal with that so i tackled it first. I just cut off the ends of the truck manifolds and welded on stainless pipe to it and went from there






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Is your weld to that cast iron gonna hold up ok? Would some s10 ls headers maybe fit?

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I believe so. Supposedly the stainless has nickel in it and that allowed some forgiveness on it cracking while cooling as well as the header had some other metals in it also that welded fairly ok surprisingly.
To test it at first I welded it in a vise and took a sledge hammer and beat the absolute hell out of it and all it did was bend the pipe and the weld didn't crack or budge where it was marked to the cast. So I went with it. Time will tell.
As far as headers, I even bought a set of GTO headers and they wouldn't work at all. I hve them relisted on eBay now.
There are only one set if headers out there that will work and sandersen makes them for 5-700 bucks depending on the coating on them.
I know of about every factory manifold tried (by one other guy) in this swap and none will work unfortunately if you keep the IFS like I am.

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Sanderson as in the Sanderson that makes S10 conversion headers? Been a while, but as I recall the rep isn't that great. A do it yourself header hit might be of help, but I'd really not worry too much about manifolds/headers unless you have a way to positively identify where everything else is going to be.

Not sure, but that frame vs engine looks like you might be up for some fenderwell headers. If so, sidepipes on a truck look pretty slick. Or, you'd have the option of running stacks through the bed although that never looks good on a pickup truck. It would also be easy to dump in front of the rear wheels. Long glasspacks would sound decent, and chambered tube mufflers sound awesome on these engines.

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Speeder wrote:
Sanderson as in the Sanderson that makes S10 conversion headers? Been a while, but as I recall the rep isn't that great. A do it yourself header hit might be of help, but I'd really not worry too much about manifolds/headers unless you have a way to positively identify where everything else is going to be.

Not sure, but that frame vs engine looks like you might be up for some fenderwell headers. If so, sidepipes on a truck look pretty slick. Or, you'd have the option of running stacks through the bed although that never looks good on a pickup truck. It would also be easy to dump in front of the rear wheels. Long glasspacks would sound decent, and chambered tube mufflers sound awesome on these engines.


Thank you for the idea , I have been listening to different mufflers online and the magnaflow glass packs sound exactly the way I want. Once I get the y pipe, catalytic converter , and the glass pack in ill weld it all up and post up some more progress

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made some progress on the toy
Edit(I later used this Chevy sender in my left hand below to run an SR5 guage oil sender instead of the below modified oil switch for the original guage) The Toyota oil pressure sender will not fit (too round to screw in) a tight spot




this front left diff mount had to be moved forward of the axle


then cleaned the rear part of the frame and painted it





Last edited by stroker97k1500 on Sun May 17, 2015 7:03 pm; edited 2 times in total
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installed the new high pressure fuel pump
cut the threaded end off the water pump then welded the inside to the outside and later grinded it smooth/painted it


bought a cloyes adjustable timing set with oversized gears and better chain to prevent the "slack" found in these motors



I took a oil pump hub and welded a nut to it and cut out a 1/4 inch gap by the keyway to make a crankshaft turning tool when you thread a bolt into the nut

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I installed the xr259hr cam into the 4.8L and put the blue ls6 valve springs in it and degreed the cam.



I gutted the engine bay and Will re route all the wiring behind the fenders so it looks clean and less cluttered and bought the paint to repaint the engine bay. I will test fit the cab soon to make sure my measurements are correct before painting




Last edited by stroker97k1500 on Wed Aug 06, 2014 5:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
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