98 K1500 Control arms?

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mrekimf
Posts: 29
Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2016 3:51 pm
Location: Missouri

98 K1500 Control arms?

Post by mrekimf »

Hi,
Looking to replace lower ball joints from Rockauto.com
They categorize them as either FORGED or WELDED.
I have no Idea what the difference is.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/dt69n ... 3_pic1.jpg

In the pic I have similar to the lower left arm, mine is not tubular at all.
thank you

Whipped383
Posts: 2104
Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:12 pm
Location: Salt Lake, 97K1500,ECSB, 383,Whipple,0411,Marine, 03K2500,CCSB,8.1&Allison, Whipple in progress

Post by Whipped383 »

The one on the right is a forged arm. The left one is stamped and welded

mrekimf
Posts: 29
Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2016 3:51 pm
Location: Missouri

Post by mrekimf »

Whipped383 wrote:The one on the right is a forged arm. The left one is stamped and welded
thank you

1999 Tahoe 4x4
Posts: 764
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:00 pm
Location: Torrance, CA

Post by 1999 Tahoe 4x4 »

I have the arm on the left side (stamped).

I installed Moog with part numbers:
K6292 upper (secured by 26mm nut)
K6477 lower (secured by 27mm nut)

While you are at it, this is a great time to remove the knockouts and install adjustable Camber/Caster Cambolts.


On my truck THERE WAS NO WAY to press out the lower, because the factory joint had an oversize brim or lip (or whatever you call it), so there was no place for the BJ press-ring to sit.

After wasting time figuring out what I'm going to do, finally I took an 18oz hammer and was able to EASILY hammer out the joint with 3-6 strong blows (I supported the control arm from below with a jackstand).

In my case the hardest part was trying to separate the lower balljoint from the knuckle. I used an air driven pickfork with multiple size forks, but still it did budge. The simple 18 oz hammer worked it's magic again here. It was difficult to hammer with the truck sitting relatively low, but eventually it worked. Keep hitting the balljoint end (you may put a nut on) hard from BELOW. If things are so stuck (as in my case), then it is best not to waste your time hitting the side of the knuckle, because you are just going to mess it up.

A surprisingly time consuming part was the drilling and getting out of the rivets of the upper ball joint.

As far as the install goes, the K6477 is too tight for the BJ-press install ring and the next size up ring is almost too big. My father made me an adaptor ring to the BJ-press ring. Once you have the your Moog K6477 in your hands, you'll be easily able to figure out what I mean.

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