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Unwanted engine noise.
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Post up what exactly your looking for and I can try to find a rust free one here in Georgia for you.

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James B. wrote:
I might still be looking for that engineless chassis with a clean title. Going to be expensive to insure a salvage title otherwise.



I know over here, if it passes inspection, it's considered same as any clean one. just that there is a note in the system and a sticker on the windshield.

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I am going to be pricing out some parts up here. I priced out everything with LMC truck and GM. GM prices can give you heart failure. $2818. That is with a cowl induction hood and a bumper if you have a 6.5 diesel. One fender.
LMC Truck: Bumper, grill, emblem, nut for emblem, reflector, sidmarker, 4" rise cowl induction hood, bumper brace kit, Screws, nuts, lower grill
panel L&R side and center, front fender left, then right, Finally the clear park light kit which includes left and right side with the screws, for $1289.15. Then there is shipping, which I do not know at this time. The two fenders and hood would have to go truck, which could get expensive, the rest would be with UPS. This is if I go this way. I forgot the two aluminum wheel well pieces. Those are cheap. Not worrying about the brush guard.
It has to pass the inspection then it will be classified as rebuilt. Not really sure what they all look at. Frame has no damage, rad support looks good, fender wasn't pushed back into the door, hood still follows along the lines along the window. I looked at a neighbors truck the same year as mine. It has a 6.5L diesel. Heavy Half. His interior is really bad, mine isn't. His has the 4L80E in it which mine doesn't. He is asking $4500, which it isn't worth that much, not when mine was only $3300. Right now would be a good time for a dead 3/4 ton truck that needs a 350 in it. I could put my engine in. I took good care of this truck. It is in the shop all the time out of the sun. To find another like it would be hard to do. Especially since I put the walbro fuel pump in the tank, the headers with new exhaust, the hydro boost, the ecm, new U-joints in the drivelines, sealed up the front diff even changing an axle. This is why I don't want to get rid of this truck. It would like a frame off restoration. Then I would have a new truck again. Just to get hit by another deer. LOL... There is a mechanic at Weidner Motors that has a 94 half ton for parts. I didn't look at it. Black in color.

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You could buy a junked out truck of the same year, transfer the VIN plates to your truck, then title your truck as the junker. Not QUITE kosher, but as you're going to build it back like new and your truck doesn't have a damaged frame it shouldn't be an issue.

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I decided this fall to sell my 350 block that came out of the truck. Put an add on Kijiji. It took a while but had someone buy the heads off the engine. Yesterday I have someone email me to see if the block was still for sale, I answered back, saying yes it is for sale yet. I sprayed some liquid film on the cylinders and the upper part of the block to protect from rust. I am surprised to see minimal wear on the cylinders. Especially for the mileage I have on the engine.





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Looks like an an Alien slimed your block.

ARE YOU OK?!!!

(kidding)

What product is this?



Last edited by CrazyHoe on Wed Nov 11, 2015 12:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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CrazyHoe wrote:
Looks like an an Alien slimed your block.

What product is this?


LOL!!

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97k15004wd wrote:
CrazyHoe wrote:
Looks like an an Alien slimed your block.

What product is this?


LOL!!


Little humor added afterthought.

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Fluid Film is what I used to spray on the block.

http://www.fluid-film.com/

It does look pretty gross.

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It looks like a booger but it-snot

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Today I found a coolant leak on my truck. For a minute I thought it was my water pump. I could see coolant coming down the inlet of the water pump. Then it would drip off the hose. After further checking on the leak, I had found the plug I used to block off one of the water pump ports, was cracked. Since I rerouted my hose for the heater return line, I did not have any use for that port. Now I have to come up with something so it does not look like crap.

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Get you some of these. Get one that sinks a wee bit under the edge of the water pump. Seal it in good. Use JB Weldit to fill the area in. Sand it down to look nice, smooth and level. Paint to match the pump. The port disappears, and it doesn't look too bad.

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That would be nice but for now since I could not find any plugs like the one that was on the rad. I just used a 5/8 bolt and a chunk of heater hose to block it off. The plugs you shown would work, Just would need to tap out the threads and tighten it up. like you said.
This was my fix for now.

This was the plug I had in place.


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Oh, I thought you had a metal plug in and that was what cracked. That plug you had on there, I've never had luck with them holding for long. However, what you have on there now I've used in the past and the simple bolt in a short piece of heater hose plug will last damn near forever. That one doesn't look bad either. If the plug really bothers you, get a longer heater hose, lay it in so it looks like it's functional and plug the end of it. It's more of a chance to leak, but it wouldn't look like a plug.

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I went to use the camper this last weekend, I plugged in the power cord to the truck. Went to flush the toilet to get some water into the tank. It did not work. I checked the fused on the converter, they were good. Went to check voltage at my plug on the truck, 0 volts. Hmmm. Pulled on the wire going into the connector. Yep it came right out.




Since I had shorted this once, I just made up a new wiring harness. I could only get the red connectors so I had to change the grey one on the camper to red.




I noticed on the loom there was a spot that got a little warm, started to melt. So I went to where I worked, till I hurt my shoulder, and picked up some heat shielding.





I put the heat shield by the header so it doesn't get the loom too warm again.

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