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Unwanted engine noise.
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Looking good. I hope your luck starts to turn around.

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I got some things done tonight. I changed the motor mounts on the truck, removed the starter, have to clean one of the battery cables, getting a little green. Knocked out a soft plug and put my block heater in. cleaned up and mount the oil filter and cooler housing. Cleaned up the motor mount brackets then painted them. stripped the intake so I can clean it tomorrow at work along with the aluminum brackets. My header gaskets I ordered Sunday night came yesterday, Was dinged $20 for import fees and brokerage fees. UPS. I am hoping to get the motor in tomorrow. Then start getting the rest of it back together.

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Since you have a new cam/ cam gear in the new engine ....... Buy a new $50 ebay distributor so they can wear into each
Other........ Will save you headaches later I promise

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This engine actually cam with a new distributor. I plan to use it. I know it isn't one with an aluminum. housing but it came with the engine, one less thing to have to purchase.

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I ended up getting some runs, Guess I should not have painted them too fast. Engine is in the truck. I remembered to change the washer fluid pump.

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Post Circulation Engine Heater 
Circulation Engine Heater
Product #30-3295-8
Reg. From $89.99

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I have a friend thats a body man. Anytime he has runs in the paint he says "no extra charge for extra material"

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Chevy 97 - You will need to tune that for the 383. You will be disappointed if you don't. It will start and run but the power will not be there. In your case I wouldn't get a performance tune but you will need the give the extra cubes more fuel. That can certainly be done and keep you on an 87 octane fuel.

TJ

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I plan on doing that, but first I want to get it running and break the engine in. I do have a question though. How do you turn up the fuel pressure on the fuel regulator?

I got a head of my self. I need to remove the left side valve cover so I can get TDC. Then I will get the radiator in, hook up the oil cooler lines then prime the engine before
setting the distributor in the hole.


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IMO, You can't, it's fixed...

Maybe it can be changed, dunno if there are adjustable that are compatible...


Or you can put an extra one in series on the return line...


Never done any of what I'm saying... Just edjumakated guessing...


I'm guessing that if you put a regulator in series with the return, it would add to the resistance of the return flow...


So, let's say that your main regulator is set to 60psi, adding a 5psi regulator to the outlet would give a total pressure of 65psi.
Maybe...

Someone else here did something similar...


Now, knowing a 383 is about 10% bigger than a 350, could increasing the flow 10% by x more psi be good enough????

This is what I use to calculate my stuff:
http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx



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http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/living-under-the-hood-diagnosing-central-port-fuel-injection/

Quote:
Second-Generation CSFI
On the second-generation Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) system (1996 and up), the MAXI injector in the central housing has been replaced with six individual injectors, each of which feeds fuel to its own poppet spray nozzle. The system also uses a mass airflow sensor to monitor airflow.

Fuel pressure in the CSFI system is a bit higher than the CPI system (60 to 66 psi with key on engine off), and the regulator maintains the operating pressure at 55 to 57 psi. The poppet valves in the spray nozzles also open at a slightly lower pressure (about 40 psi). The injectors fire just before each intake valve opens.

The bad thing about the CSFI setup is that the nozzles tend to gum up more than the nozzles in the older CPI systems because they spray less often. The heat soak period between sprays allows fuel varnish to build up inside the nozzles and restrict fuel delivery causing a lean fuel condition, misfiring, hesitation and a loss of power. The good thing about the CSFI system is that the injectors and nozzles can be replaced individually if any fail.

In recent years, an aftermarket replacement system for these applications has been developed that converts the CSFI system into a conventional multi-point fuel injection system. The aftermarket system looks similar, but the troublesome poppet valve spray nozzles on the ends of the fuel distribution lines have been replaced with conventional electronic mini-injectors.


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Don't have much time to post the calculations but if the replacement cpfi is 19# @ 43.5 (3bar) and it works with 65# key on, engine off,
it would need 78.5# key on, engine off to increase the flow 10%


According to the calculators:

http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx

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Good info on the injectors and the regulator here:

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/general-discussion/performance/258260-csfi-central-sequential-fuel-injection.html

You do know your SH?t Pauly! hehe.

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CrazyHoe wrote:
Good info on the injectors and the regulator here:

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/general-discussion/performance/258260-csfi-central-sequential-fuel-injection.html

You do know your SH?t Pauly! hehe.

lol, my bloodpressure spiked just reading that thread again.


On the MULTEC 2 MPFI upgrade, on the newer 4.3's that use the MULTEC 2 spider stock from the factory, the actual IFR in the calibration is/was differnt than the previous CSFI V6 calibration.
Fast355 noticed it, then I checked it, and sure enough the calibrations were different.

The CSFI spiders were 23.1 lb/hr and the MPFI/MULTEC 2 was 22.1 lb/hr. Those flow rates were measured at 63psi IIRC.
I know that when the California GM dealerships were doing CSFI to MPFI/MULTEC 2 warranty work, a calibration reflash was NOT part of the deal.

CSFI/MPFI info
http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/tsb/tsb_05D-105.pdf


So far as rasing the fuel pressure, Ive heard of guys modifying the stock FPR making it inoperatble, then running an extenal VRAFPR as Crazy suggested.

peace
Hog

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Hog wrote:

On the MULTEC 2 MPFI upgrade, on the newer 4.3's that use the MULTEC 2 spider stock from the factory, the actual IFR in the calibration is/was differnt than the previous CSFI V6 calibration.
Fast355 noticed it, then I checked it, and sure enough the calibrations were different.

The CSFI spiders were 23.1 lb/hr and the MPFI/MULTEC 2 was 22.1 lb/hr. Those flow rates were measured at 63psi IIRC.
I know that when the California GM dealerships were doing CSFI to MPFI/MULTEC 2 warranty work, a calibration reflash was NOT part of the deal.

peace
Hog


Using 19# @ 43.5psi as a reference, I plugged the numbers:


19 * 10.5 = 199.5



22.1# means 18.4 @ 43.5psi

Only lab testing would verify these num.

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I know this is not the proper way to do it, but from the numbers I plugged, looks like you could run a 350 calibration on a 383 by raising the fuel pressure by just the right amount that would increase the fuel flow proportionally to the engine size increase...

That of course, if it's the same fuel system, and head intake combo.

And if the engine kept the same volumetric efficiency.

So, now, increasing a 19# injector from 63psi to 76.5psi,
increases the fuel flow by 10%

And since a 383 is 10% bigger.... I think it would work...

Can the pump produce enough flow?... Dunno, an inline 255 Walbro would fix that.

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Hog wrote:


So far as rasing the fuel pressure, Ive heard of guys modifying the stock FPR making it inoperatble, then running an extenal VRAFPR as Crazy suggested.

peace
Hog


I was thinking simply adding an external 13.5 regulator but then, it gets complicated to reference to the intake.... So yeah, cancel internal, put external 76.5psi for CSFI 383. Add inline Walbro 255. cause I think that's starting to strain a oem type pump.

The two pumps inline would see less than 40psi each. ( rated @ 43psi : 255LPH = 67 GPH)



I think that would work...


http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=GSL392&eq=&Tp=



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I already have the walbro 255 lph pump. This 383 has the 4 inch bore, just have the 3.8 inch stroke. Same heads as the 350.
I installed my new radiator, It is a little thicker in the core then the original. I ended up putting a couple of notches in the lower part of the rad support.





I did get my timing on TDC, put in another new temp sensor, this one went in the head instead of the intake.
I have a few more things to put on yet. I added my oil before installing the intake. I need to get the oil cooler lines on and the filter before priming the system.

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Ahh I recognize that radiator. Heater circuit return means it's the big-block spec version.

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I was looking at one of the set ups like I have for my fuel injection, those have an adjustable fuel regulator. Is there one of those available?

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