A few weeks ago our truck wouldn't start for the wife in Lacombe. I couldn't hear the fuel pump at all. Even opened up the gas cap, and had Lezlie turn on the key. Even spun the engine over. Nothing. I then went to John Deere in Ponoka and picked up a Blank 3 wire weather pack connector with pins and rubber seals. I made a jumper wire to connect to the fuel pump by the tank. Even fused it. jumped it from the battery. Nothing. After making phone calls for prices, I ordered a Walbro 255LPH pump. Still waiting for it to show up. Should be here this week.
http://www.fuel-pumps.net/5ca400hp.html
This is the pump I ordered. I got help in finding this one. Even with shipping it still was cheaper to buy then from here. Even counting the exchange rate. I thought I would share that sight with the Walbro pump. I know Stroker97 will be needing one sometime. I have been taking my sweet time at removing the tank. I am mad that the anti siphonning ball was put back on. Makes drainnig tank worse. I cannot get my hose past it so I can suck out the gas. May try hooking into the pumps line by filter to see if I can suck it out. I made a older electric pump to use for draining tanks. Even filtered fused and put a toggle switch on the wiring.
I removed driveline. Aluminum and fibreglass. had one bad joint. Unfortunately I couldn't do this repair. Took it to Alco in Red Deer this morning and picked up new straps and bolts at Weidners Chevrolet in Lacombe. I am having both Joints replaced.

Drive line is done, If I am feeling good tomorrow, I will drop tank. Pump did arrive yet. At least I know where to take the driveline, when I need to shorten it.

On my 97 Tahoe I think there was a rubber hose between the body and tank. I was able to take 1 end off and siphon from there.. Not sure how its setup on a pickup.

1st time I changed my pump I lifted the box off it took 2 hours with an impact.....The 2nd time I changed it I took an air saw and cut a window in the box floor..... from the time I drilled the pilot hole for the saw to the time I was done truck running hole closed up in box...20 minutes. I put the piece that was cut out back in place with 2 tabs I fabbed up, seam sealered the cut and its hardly noticable...and if I have to do it for the 3rd time its gonna be real easy...Lorne

I used my tranny jack strapped the tank to the Jack. Removed the bolt for the rear strap, Removed the four nuts on the front bracket. Left front strap on tank. The lines are fairly rusted. I am now replacing the sending unit, rear pressure line and rear return line. The Filler neck, & hose. Clamps. The over fill tube and hoses. To be on the safe side, I ordered the plastic piece the filler neck is attached too. Everything is rusted, with metal flaking off. Not taking any chance for a fire to start. The truck is up on Jack Stands, the driveline is removed, Tank is off the truck on the jack. I have to cut one hose and a groung wire. Sometimes it is best to remove the tank. I liked the Idea of lifting the box up. I just don't have the overhead lift. Did you weld the piece back on when you cut the hole? John Deere did that with there tractors. The fuel tank was under the cab. There was an access panel on the cab to get at the pump. Nice.

I didnt use a lift i carefully picked up 1 side at a time after i slid it back and rested it on the bumper and the rear tires. I put rags down first so the paint didnt get beat up.....With the access panel I tacked 4 tabs under the edge of the box so the panel had something to sit on then a small self tapping screw in each corner to hold it in place you cant see them with the boxliner in. I got the idea from a Nissan or Honda that my buddy needed a pump changed in...the access panel is under the rear seat ..........Lorne

HAYWIRE wrote:

I didnt use a lift i carefully picked up 1 side at a time after i slid it back and rested it on the bumper and the rear tires. I put rags down first so the paint didnt get beat up.....With the access panel I tacked 4 tabs under the edge of the box so the panel had something to sit on then a small self tapping screw in each corner to hold it in place you cant see them with the boxliner in. I got the idea from a Nissan or Honda that my buddy needed a pump changed in...the access panel is under the rear seat ..........Lorne

You would think more companies would do that. Our Ford Car, dad had to cut a hole in the inner fender to get at the heater fan. My pump shown up today.


I am now waiting for the rest of the parts to get here.

Pictures.

My fuel lines came yesterday. Lez picked them up this morning. LMC Truck phoned yesterday to. All those parts are coming USPS airmail. Cost was less then UPS. Hope they get here this coming Friday. I did get a wideband O2 sensor and controller with a guage to put inside the truck. That was sent yesterday too. I cannot buy anything till I get everything I have installed.

The rest of my parts came today. I ordered all this from LMC Truck.





I then put the fuel pump onto the new sending unit, Then I bolted the filler tube to the plastic mount.





I then bolted that to the box. Getting antsy. We need the truck. Maybe tomorrow I can remove the old sending unit and clean up the surface and then put the new unit on the tank.

I also put on the filler neck and new filter. Still waiting for one of my friends to have free time to help. In a few more weeks I can do it myself.

I melted and poored wax onto sending unit, keeps dirt out of the openings.

I am disappointed in my friends up here. I asked if I could get help. They couldn't make it last weekend. I said I need the truck after this weekend. No calls, and no shows. 3 more weeks than I can do it myself.

Isin't it always like that....

I would put a coat of rust proofing on that if I were you...

I put gravel guard on mine...

I will have to find some rust proof. I still have the gravel protector on the bottom. That maybe the next thing down the road. a new tank.

CrazyHoe wrote:

Isin't it always like that....

I would put a coat of rust proofing on that if I were you...

I put gravel guard on mine...

Are you a paint expert. I followed the instructions on the can of rust inhibitor. I cleaned and sprayed the gas tank where the rust was really bad. I removed the insulator off the tank so I could remove rust chunks. Can I paint over the rust inhibitor or do I need to clean that off? I'm not a paint expert. I just want to put primer on the rusted area.

Not a paint expert, just watched every episode of Power-block.

Mine was leaking so I bought a new one.

I primed it but that's not enough as primer is porous and the metal will eventually rust. So is paint, that's why it need to be waxed to seal the pores.

My reasoning behind gravel Gard. (bed liner even better but too expensive. ) Is that I have a plastic protective shell that covers the bottom of my tank and dirt gets trap between the tank and the plastic so I figure there's some grinding going on in there. (not the fun type...)

CrazyHoe wrote:

Not a paint expert, just watched every episode of Power-block.

Mine was leaking so I bought a new one.

I primed it but that's not enough as primer is porous and the metal will eventually rust. So is paint, that's why it need to be waxed to seal the pores.

My reasoning behind gravel Gard. (bed liner even better but too expensive. ) Is that I have a plastic protective shell that covers the bottom of my tank and dirt gets trap between the tank and the plastic so I figure there's some grinding going on in there. (not the fun type...)

I never did take that off. I watch power block too. noticed it wasn't on. Bedliner would be the best. on Mythbuster, they used a bedliner to bomb proof a concrete pillar. They showed one just explode when there was no protection. Some how the shock wave was deflected by the bedliner material, On trucks, they sprayed the bottom of the Ranger truck with a bedliner. keeps the rocks from chipping paint and causing rust. I will have to have a closer look at the can, to see if it says anything.

Doesnt the US military use Rhinoliner on the underside of Humvees for some kind of bomb proofing? I have seen somewhere 1 company takes a concrete block and dips it in their bedliner product lets it dry then heaves it off a building and it bounces......they do the same with an uncoated block and it shatters.......Lorne

My tank was leaking from the bottom and was caused by what ever was traped between the tank and the plastic protection. I had to buy a new tank. Bed liner was over kill on a new galvanized tank but on an old one, I would have done it if it was cheaper than a new tank. I believe bed liner is resistant to gas.

Duplicolor has it in a can. I primered the top of the tank, Not all just the area I sprayed with rust inhibitor. I took a rag and wiped off the excess, the primed it. I did the same thing with the strap. I also sprayed the bolt too. I have to go to town tomorrow. Need to stop at JohnDeer,to order a steering wheel and a part for the charging system. I need some wire connectors butt connectors,and weather pack connector. Wiring the tractor to pull sprayer. I have a yard sprayer. I need a fertilizer spreader too. Back to my original project, I will check if they carry duplicolor paint. If not I may need to go to bumper to bumper. I have a place to go to in Wetaskewin too.