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4L80E overhaul.
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I picked up my parts at Parts Source. Also got the liquid tape.

Spread the liquid tape onto the wires that had the bare spots.

I installed both switches, the left one looked a little corroded, probably why it did not work so well.



I loosened off the grill to get the hood latch cable off. I also removed the battery and had to loosen off the fuse box.

I got the new one on, but not with out some swear words. Mostly at my cat because she would not shut up. Anyway this is why I had to loosen off the fuse
box so I could get at the cable to pull the grommet through. Talk about no fun sneaking it behind the park brake lever assembly.


I did order my screws for the door sills, now I have to get one of those metal nuts for the grill, I lost one. popped out of the left side. Not sure where it went.
I will need a couple of those too.

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Chevy 97 wrote:

I did order my screws for the door sills, now I have to get one of those metal nuts for the grill, I lost one. popped out of the left side. Not sure where it went.
I will need a couple of those too.


Oh man, I can relate. Every time I drop a bolt, washer, etc. it either goes to geographical center under the vehicle or the nether regions of the workshop - only to be found AFTER I've bought a replacement.....

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I decided to put a connector on my wires for the trans temp gauge and the air fuel ration gauge.

I have everything together. Wires tied up. Going to make sure everything is updated on my laptop.

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I am glad I checked for updates. V7.5, V8, and the V2 Flashscan all had updates.

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I went out to the shop. Hooked up batteries. Noticed the dome light staying on. Turned on lights. No light for the trans temp gauge. I was saying a few cuss words. Fooled around with that all this morning before realizing the dome light does shut off. As a far as the light goes. Its on all the time. Will work on that later. This afternoon. I reflashed PCM. It took. Truck started up. Next on my list, shift cable. That took some patience to get things freed up so I could adust it. I did get the first lock to move.

The next lock was even harder to move. Thought I was going to break it. I made my adjustment once. Adjusted the neutral safety switch. Still was not going into first very well. I went through the cable adjustment one more time. Felt a lot better.

Next is filling transmission. Still working on that.

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Now I have a code P1810 to check out. First I am going to check my wiring at the connector before removing the transmission pan. Not very happy. I put the gear selector in any gear and it will not move.

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I spent some time doing some more research for wiring on the 20 pin connector, the one I had was for inside the transmission. Different colored wires, I did find one. The only difference is The gray wire that is listed is black on my wiring, I have no gray wires. I also do not know which pin number for one. I will post the picture of the one I found.


This next one I went an cross referenced everything off the pin out sheet I got from Lextech when I did my 0411 swap. I had the help of my wife to figure out how to get it into a picture so I could post it up with photo bucket.

I will have to load the other picture, having issues with photo bucket again. Might be due to the fact our internet slows way down at night.

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All else fails use my phone. Seems better then my laptop. I cropped an enhanced a photo of my 20 pin connector wiring. No gray wire at all.

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Use lextech's pin out, I think the reason you don't have a grey wire is because your 4l60 didn't have a trans temp sensor.

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My pin out sheet even shows a black wire. The list I copied could be from a newer truck then mine. I used his sheet to make my the second picture.

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If you used lextech's pinout and you double checked your work and it want move it's something internal I would call whoever does your transmission work and tell them it may be something they can do in the valve body without pulling the transmission. Good luck and keep us posted

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First thing I did was check to see if I actually put the correct tune in the PCM. It was correct. Next I pulled the 20 pin connector out. Noticed there is no way to get it on backwards. I started the truck put it into gear and it moved forward but no reverse. Connector was pulled out. I was even able to start it in neutral. While under the truck I noticed the shifter was not all the way into low. I will have to check on that some time. Making sure I have the gear selector all the way into first gear. If it isn't then I will need a new cable. With the 20 pin connector out, I removed the negative cable off the battery then removed the two connectors on the PCM. I started out with the first one Pin A. that checked out .5 ohms. same with the next few pins until I got to E. E provides voltage to the Transmission Solenoid. I was not sure which pin it was on with the two connectors. Last night I looked over my pin out sheet, and the chart I found on the internet. I could not find that circuit location on the pin out sheet I have from Lextech. The one that actually comes close to what the colored wire was, ended up reading 33.67kohms. I checked other pins. Some were open circuits or OL on the meter. some were just like I had read before. 33.67kohms. Others pin locations read as high as 600kohms. My first response was when I read the reading on the first pin was a bad wire some where. May still be a bad wire as far as I know. The wire I swapped over is correct. Also okay, .5ohms. I updated my pin out sheet I made to follow while out in the shop. I mixed up two pin locations and I removed the gray wire to black since that is what I have.


I am sure glad I bought and electrical testing kit, saves on ruining terminals by using the wrong size pin to test them.


This is what I did to check the ohms on the wires. I was looking for a broken wire or something. You never know if one would break or get pinched.




As you can see on the meter I had .5ohms. That was D on the 20 pin connector and C2 pin 8 on the PCM side.

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I did not work on the truck tonight. I was messing around with school work. I did sign up to get some wiring diagrams though, been looking through them to find a wire for my light on the temp sensor. I come across this wiring schematic though. I found were pin E goes to. Not to the PCM but to the fuse panel. It is no wonder why I was getting so many readings. with the fuse plugged in, all the power wires would be connected. Will double check all that tomorrow.

I also noticed that the wiring that goes to the TCC PWM sol, they show going to pin U. Just for curiosity, I went out to look at the connector on the transmission. Funny how there isn't even a pin in that spot, So it really does go to terminal S. I am going to check on the cable tomorrow too, just in case I need to get a new one yet.

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Nothing really new today. I did check on my shift cable, sometimes when I shift to 1st gear the transmission is not all the way into first. I can move the lever on the transmission. I even did another adjustment. Going to get a new cable. I think after 20 years this one has done just fine. Time for a new one. After putting the negative cable back in place. Just for the hell of it, I tested the voltage on pin E on the 20 pin connector. Only showed 11.9 volts, but then my battery at that time was dead. I had it on the charger for a while tonight. I then fixed the two wires by my switch where I tied in to the wiring. I actually bought some 20 gauge gray wire to fix the gray wire. Orange for the orange wire. Now I will pick up some green wire. I also picked up some terminals that match the ones in the connector for the light switch. That is why I fixed the other two wires. I found out which wire I am actually going to steal some voltage from. The dark green wire. That way I can dim the light on the gauge too. I will have to fuse it though. The green wire feeds into the fuse box then comes out with the gray wire for the lighting in the dash.

This has been an interesting an a learning project. I will check on the transmission tomorrow. Going to make sure it is full first. The see if it moves in reverse and forward with out 20 pin connector plugged in. I hope that work, otherwise there could be something else wrong. I will call the person who rebuilt my transmission first. Let him know what is going on.

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On my way home I picked up some more wire. Different color again. Unfortunately it was not a dark green but it will do. I picked up another fuse holder. I found the wire I needed last night, so I decided to tap into it this evening.

I removed the white wire out of the weather pack connector, then put in another green wire. Different colors. Also put a fuse in line since the wire I am getting voltage from is before the fuse box.
I crimped both wires onto the terminal that goes into the connector.

I also ordered my new shift cable this afternoon, it will be here in the morning, so I ripped out the old one. Wasn't as bad as I though it would be.



Had to move the seat though.


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Yesterday morning I had to pick up my part. I installed the cable. Cleaned up the carpet that was under the seat. Put dash together. Put seat in place. Finished topping up the tranny oil. Tested transmission. Moved in reverse and forward. I now have an over full transmission. Will have to drain some out. Plug in the 20 pin connector put driveline on. Remove codes. I will have to put the boot in place by steering shaft too.





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Finally made some trackes in the snow.

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Congratulations!! Great job on that.

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Great work my friend to the West! I'll be out in 3 days and we can do my truck next OK?
Seriously though, great work.

peace
Hog

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Thanks. It was starting to get frustrating. I still need to get the trim around the seats. Make sure oil level is correct. I may take it somewhere to get the inside really clean.

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