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4L80E overhaul.
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Change the cable, no. Change the pinout, yes. You have to move two wires and remove a third from the plug. Unfortunately, I don't recall which ones. The front speed sensor must also be added to the PCM. The 4L60E neutral safety switch also works on the 4L80E, in fact I didn't even unplug mine from its harness because they were stuck together and I was unable to remove the switch. Once I get a garage up, one of these years, I'll probably replace it.

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Speeder wrote:
Change the cable, no. Change the pinout, yes. You have to move two wires and remove a third from the plug. Unfortunately, I don't recall which ones. The front speed sensor must also be added to the PCM. The 4L60E neutral safety switch also works on the 4L80E, in fact I didn't even unplug mine from its harness because they were stuck together and I was unable to remove the switch. Once I get a garage up, one of these years, I'll probably replace it.

I have an article on the pin out change for the plug going into the transmission. I am going to do just like you did and just take mine off the 60 and put it on the 80e. Neutral safety switch anyway. IIRC the VVS goes to 22 and 23 on the red connector. According to my sheets I used to swap the PCM. It is good to know that I do not have to change the cable. That is one less expense. Some may think I am crazy, but my cooler lines are getting rusty from the road salts here. I checked one of the recyclers in Lacombe, they do not keep the cooler lines. Must be a liability. I checked with the parts store I use, they cannot get them. A classmate of my nephews works at a dealer. I am going to call him about the lines. Then I can get the proper lines for this set up. May have to move the cooler to the drivers side. I will grind down the splines on the front shaft but have to take the rear one in to get shortened. I will have to read up on how much I will need to shorten mine or just to see where to measure. I am going to put the transmission in place before drilling my holes. Then I will have the correct placement to drill my new holes. It is a bummer this was not already drilled. But then again, not sure if it would be in the same position with the 6.5l diesel. Some had a bracket on the support for the mount. Like the one article I was reading. He just removed that mount and never had to move anything or drill holes. But that is what it is.

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Post Started the 4L80E swap. 
First I had to clean the shop.

Disconnected the batteries. Yes the truck is filthy dirty. Wanted to wash it but the temperatures got over 0 degrees Celsius today. Makes the snow melt and messy roads.

I got to use the jack extension. That worked out really great. I was able to lift the truck up as high as the stands would allow.

I will have to get this shortened. The shop I am taking it to said he can shorten this shaft.

I had to remove the O2 sensor to get the front shaft out. I do not have to remove the headers. I will how ever have to remove the pipes so it can drop some when I lower the transmission.

I did pretty good, not one swear word taking out the transfer case.

I have to see how to get the shift lever off the cable.


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The cable just pops of the arm, take a screw driver and put behind it and pry it off it should come off easy.

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Todays agenda was to take a road trip again. I should have just brought back the parts for the transfer case on Saturday. I decided to do that one myself. I took the cooler lines off. I removed the auxiliary cooler, this is one place that is hard to wash, as you can see it is pretty dirty behind there.

I removed the bumper to see if I can align it straighter then what is was.

Remember the torque converter bolts.

This line is a little bit rusted, may have to cut it off. Going to drop transmission some to see if I can reach it better.

Drained the oil out of the pan. Missed the drain pan again.

I cleaned up the shaft before attempting to remove the neutral safety switch.


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Check the dealer for new trans cooler lines. I replaced all mine for about 100 bucks, maybe less, not counting the cooler. And, I screwed up and ordered lines for a standalone cooler. THAT was friggin expensive, but the lines themselves were surprisingly cheap. The pickups and the Tahoe/Suburban are the same in respect to the cooling lines, because the front end is the same and the trans is in the same location on all.

Admittedly I converted a GMT800 and you are working on a GMT400, but I can't see the price difference being that much. It's just bent lines, after all. The nice thing is, the lines will fit perfectly. At least on the GMT800, they were incredibly easy to install too. I figured I'd have to jack the engine up and stuff, but it was just a matter of twisting the line, move, twist again, move, ect.

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Thanks. Already ordered two of the new lines. They do not make the line from the tranny to rad. They have a generic one. The longer line is around $95 the auxilary to rad is $45. Not really much different if I would have ordered them in the states and shipped here. Adding 32 cents to the dollar for the difference then the cost of shipping.




There is a very big difference in the design of the dipsticks, not really sure about the difference of the torque converter covers. Anyway tranny is finally out.

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Good job!

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I didn't get anything done on the truck today, except to measure up the transmissions. I came up with 1 9/16 difference. Both of my transmissions has the cast housing in the rear for the transfer case.. I wrapped up the ends of the drive line so I can haul it in my car. Taking it to the drive line shop tomorrow. I have a meeting with my WCB case handler and the person who will be helping with my job search since I have to change careers. Will be getting some training on computers. Might even get one for sales.
I did clean out my auxiliary oil cooler. Removed the fittings, ordered new ones, picked up a 3/8 brake line for the transmission to radiator line. Going to get up early so I can change the wires over in the plug to the transmission. Then I can get the 80e up so I can mark and drill holes. Lots to do. Run a wire up to the PCM for the front VSS. Run wires into the cab for the transmission temp gauge, Finally mount the two gauge pillar pod.

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Coming along very nicely! It will be worth it when you are done.

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The same transfer case can be used on both transmissions. The only difference is the input gear, which can be swapped inside the transfer case. When I did mine I sent the transfer case in to be rebuilt at the same time, and they put the correct gear for the 4L80E in.

You will also need the driveshafts redone. They will cut the rear driveshaft to the correct size, and install a new tube to lengthen the front.

The trans mount crossmember will also need to be adjusted. You're lucky in that you have the GMT400 for this swap, as the mount bolts directly to the frame. On the GMt800s the crossmember bolts to a pair of brackets welded to the frame. I had to have an entirely new crossmember made up for mine but you'll just have to slide yours down. Yours may even already have the holes drilled into the frame for the 4L80E, at worst you'll just have to locate the crossmember onto the frame, and drill the holes yourself.

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Thanks. I am going to take the transfer case apart myself. I have the input shaft already in my possession. The rear drive line will be after I have the transfer case in place. I stopped by the drive line shop. He recommended me to put the yoke all the way in till it bottoms out, then back out 3/4 of and inch. Measure from the center of the cap as it sits straight up, to the yoke on the rear end. That too facing up. I am to get a measurement from the top and bottom and split the difference, that will give me the correct length. The front I will just grind off about an inch of the splines and call it good. The wiring I just did this morning.

First thing I did was to remove the guard and lock from the connector.

I marked the two wires that I had to move in green and the lock that had to be moved in red, in order to get the wires out. The terminals were S and U.

I carefully slide the seal out of the way and pulled the white wire out of terminal S, this wire you leave out, not used. I just taped it back.

Then I removed the brown wire from terminal U and placed it in terminal S. The green line was terminal U and the red was terminal S.
There you have it, I just have to plug the hole that the brown wire came out of.

I just happen to have a plug.

There you have it, the plug is in the guard in place, now I just have to put the loom on and the rear lock. Then that connector is done.

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Today, I got the rest of my transmission cooler lines, then I stopped at a car wash since the temperatures was way above normal. I washed off the transfer case, then the cross member, the oil cooler, and the skid plate.
This after noon I did get the transmission bolted up to the engine, and the cross member in place. I have to get all the wiring in place also the fuel line so I can tighten up all the bellhousing bolts. Since my engine has 7 bolt holes. I used the top one on the transmission.

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Just adding a picture of the transmission bolted up. I have a spot for a temp gauge that I will be putting on too. This is actually not that bad of a job to do.


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I was told by someone once that the transmission mount for the 4l60e and the 4l80e were different. I put the new on beside the old one and they are exactly the same.


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This evening, I went out to the shop to try and get all the bellhousing bolts tightened up, including all of the wires and fuel lines that get tied up on the studs. I put the dipstick in and run into an issue I did not for see. Just a small one. The bracket that holds the wires that go off the engine over the top of the transmission. The dipstick hits that I am hoping it will go underneath that bracket or on the other side of it. Will figure that out in the morning.


Earlier today, I was cleaning up bolts for the torque converter cover. I run the thread cleaner through one hone on the cover, the other hole was a little worn. farther down the hole it is the same size. I had to get a 10mm 1.5 thread pitch helicoil kit. Will put that in tomorrow.

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I removed the bracket, then moved dipstick into place, tightened down the nut. I bolted the bracket back up. Just to notice when I am moving some of the wires around that one clamp needed to go behind the dipstick bracket, and another wire had to be moved behind the dipstick. Off the bracket came.

I also bought this handy tray before I had injured my shoulder, comes in handy.

I went to put on my fuel lines and forgot to get new o-rings, My wife was in town, so I called and had her pick them up. also my park light lens came in, I accidentally dropped one and broke off the taps.

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I wanted to get the transfer case apart on Sunday. But I ended up in emerge sunday morning also yesterday morning. Spent most the day in two different hospitals, just to find out I have two kidney stones to pass. I did get out to the shop today but only to just get out of the house. I managed to get the helicoil in the cover.

So far that I know of I have not passed those two stones yet.

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Looks good on the heli-coil. Is the tang still on it?

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97k15004wd wrote:
Looks good on the heli-coil. Is the tang still on it?


Not now, I knocked it off this afternoon. Was going to put the cover on, found out it is another 4l60E. That is why I did not see the difference between the two. Pissed me off some, so I spent the rest of the afternoon looking for one. I have to go to Brian's place west of Ponoka to see about the two he had found. I really wish the wreckers would tag them after they are removed, then there is no guess work. That would be just too easy.

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