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4L80E overhaul.
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I started this thread a while back. I finally bought a 4L80E to rebuild. I came from behind a 6L so it is a 2000 or newer transmission. He said reverse went out of it. After I get back to work I can start getting parts to rebuild the transmission. With this now I will be delaying putting in the 411 pcm so I only have to do the wiring once. I did find a 454 but could not afford it at this time.






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I won't be able to do anything with this until the shop gets done but I did buy a pan that I wanted for the 4L80E.



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My 4L60E is showing codes that I have slippage in the transmission. You can actually hear it when shifting from third to fourth. I am going to add an additive from Lucas to see if that helps stop the slippage.
I dropped the pan, nothing inside of it for pieces, oil still has a reddish color to it. I haven't driven this truck enough since the last oil change but since it is slipping I decided to change the filter and put the additive in after flushing the transmission.

Nothing in the pan or stuck on the magnet.

This one is for the end of the day.


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I need to get the 80E fixed so it is ready to put in. I almost need a go fund me account to fix this truck. LOL.. I made a boo boo with my V2 scan/tune tool that cost me a lot of money and had to clone it. Also my laptop is down, can it get any worse. Hope not. There is a gentleman here in Alberta that started a go fund me account to help fix his camper after a hail storm damaged it and he had no insurance. Not really sure how it is working for him, I haven't paid any more attention to it.

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Changed the seal for the filter.

Removed the top transmission cooler line.

Flushed out the rest of the oil

Added the Lucas last.

Made a mess.

Put the line back in place, before taking truck for a test drive.

Oil was full, this is the first time I didn't have to add any oil after this was done.

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Slipping on the 3-4 upshift?

With the 3-4 clutch pack being one of the known weak areas on the 60E, this doesn't surprise me. I don't know about the Lucas product you put in there, but my own past experiences with friction modifiers in a 60E taught me a lot. The Black LubeGard (sp?) is good stuff; it will firm up a slipping shift nicely. Quite useful when there is Kevlar used anywhere in the apply devices (this is not the case on stock frictions, but the principle still applies).

I would say maybe you could hobble it along by removing and bypassing the 3-4 accumulator, but since you've already had the pan off and just got it back together, I assume you probably don't want to go back in to pull the valve body. Since you have the software to program it perhaps you could bump up line pressure a bit to compensate the weak 3-4 clutches. It's a Band-Aid for now, but it might buy you some time. The shift times are typically set to zero or on the 3-4 anyway... at least on all the factory tunes I've seen. So trying to "quicken" the shift is not an option via the PCM (and if the transmission cannot accomplish a prescribed shift time anyway due to mechanical/hydraulic weakness anyway then calibrating in a shorter shift time will not actually help... the PCM is already probably at max trans adapt as it is trying to hit the target shift time with the slipping apply materials. What you need in this case (aside from replacing the obviously damaged apply materials) is simply greater hydraulic pressure to compensate. As I mentioned above, the computer does this exact thing via trans adapts in order to hit the targeted shift times every time your truck shifts (and therefore constantly re-adjusts trans adapts), it's just that now the wear in the clutches is beyond what the line rise variation programmed in stock will compensate for. You could raise it via programming or maybe drop the pan again and change out to a stronger boost valve (does not require dropping the valve body). That would also get you the higher line pressure to "force" the frictions to grab. If you opt to go the programming route, just don't get crazy... more line pressure increases load on the pump (increased wear, etc.).

All this might be options available to you to keep you driving while you get the 80E built.



Last edited by JR96CK on Wed Aug 19, 2015 12:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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Also, maybe it's just the pic you posted above (lighting or something), but you're right... there is some definite slippage going on there. Seems to be a lot of black "dust" in the fluid which is still in the bottom of the pan. Definitely some friction material heavily worn there. The magnet looks to have a "normal" amount of metal on it though, so I wouldn't suspect hard parts damage.

Also, pardon the nit-picking, but I would stay away from those cork gaskets. The cork particles have been known to come loose and will clog the 2-4 servo exhaust hole there on the pan rail. The black factory-style "composite" gaskets are the way to go there. Just a heads up on that little-known issue.

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I would do some tune changes except my new V2 won't be here until Monday/Tuesday. Also my laptop is down. Kind of stops me from doing that. So far I have been lucky with the cork gaskets. This is the fifth time I have put a filter in this transmission. That is good to know. At this time I won't be taking the pan back off.

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My V2 hasn't arrived yet. The Service Engine Soon light went out this morning. I have noticed the additive is working, I haven't heard the transmission slip while driving it. I did add another bottle today.

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Before I put my 4L80E in my 4L60E was crapping out. I put a bottle of Lucas and a bottle of TransX and drove it easy. It lasted a year or so like that.

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Speeder wrote:
Before I put my 4L80E in my 4L60E was crapping out. I put a bottle of Lucas and a bottle of TransX and drove it easy. It lasted a year or so like that.

Nice. I will have to check on the trans x.
My new V2 came from EFI live today.

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Glad to hear it's holding together for you so far. Hoping it stays alive long enough to get that 80 built.

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So far I have made it into October, still hanging in there. Still trying to raise some money for the transmission. Trying to sell some of my old big block parts, some tires , small block intake and even the L31 that I took out of my truck. I sold three of the items I have listed but haven't even go a bite on the rest.

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I finally made the decision to overhaul my 80E myself to try and save some money. Doesn't really look that hard in the video's I have been watching. Putting the piston back together is going to be interesting. The person in the video's looks like he use feeler gauge to move along the seal as he pressed the piston down into place. The only thing I don't have yet is a something to press the springs to take the pistons apart and put back together. I still need to get a dust cover so I can bolt up the braces, a dip stick, the correct fittings for the transmission and on line, because my transmission has the return line going to the rear of transmission. I am going to take pictures too. I never did notice if the guy ever measured his end play to see if he had the correct shims in place. Unless there is another miracle tonight, I cannot afford the lower gear set. Even though it would be a great improvement. Not the really low gear but the 2.75 first gear. Having the other would be like having the 4L60E all over again.

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Check out Howard and Robby's swap.

H used plastic film to slide the seal on.

http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5795&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=80

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Thanks, I had the thread that Robby did for his swap, but unfortunately I lost all that when My lap top when kaput.

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http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6206&start=0

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Thanks for posting that for me.

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No prob
Converting 4L60E trans cooler lines to work with 4L80E Trans
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6119&highlight=4l80e

TCI low gear
http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11542&start=0

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Thanks. I saw the fittings I need at PATC. They are the snap fittins like the 60e except the one for the rear goes in the case farther for the lubrcation. I also saw the two screws that go in the front to hold the band and the one in the rear are hollow. I will need a torks ond a 12 point 3/8. Actually looking forward to doing this. Except building the engine. I can claim I did the work on this truck myself. I just need to know what torque converter to use?

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