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EVO Steering Bypass Kit From GM
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JR96CK wrote:


I was looking on RA myself and find it quite strange that the pumps are out of stock for non-hyrdoboost trucks. Curious. Hrm


Don't be. RockAuto changes its wholesaler lineup like its shorts! A good friend of mine has worked for them for 7 years. Dig around awhile for Delco parts and you will see they're phasing out one, if not two, of the wholesalers, or the wholesalers are no longer carrying, Delco items. I don't know why Delco items have been getting harder and harder to find, but dang they are!

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Sounds like a lot of work that could be solved with an EVO delete kit for $50. 2 connections and you are done.

But I do agree the fact that a leaky hose needs replacing does factor into costing.

I liked the 88-96 steering on the highway, but IMO was too stiff everywhere else. But these are qualitative observations.

I'm loosing some fluid somewhere so I will be digging in some time soon.

$90 for the JB5 pump reman pump from Rock auto.

peace
Hog

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Hog wrote:
Sounds like a lot of work that could be solved with an EVO delete kit for $50. 2 connections and you are done.

But I do agree the fact that a leaky hose needs replacing does factor into costing.

I liked the 88-96 steering on the highway, but IMO was too stiff everywhere else. But these are qualitative observations.

I'm loosing some fluid somewhere so I will be digging in some time soon.

$90 for the JB5 pump reman pump from Rock auto.

peace
Hog


Qualitatively, I'm going to disagree based on having compared my conversion to the EVO bypass last night. The buddy that loaned his billet Vortec distributor while I was searching for my misfire woes came by last night. We got to chatting about current repairs and behold he did the EVO bypass 6 months ago in his 99. My 98 and his 99 are identical, right down to wearing Michelin 265s on 16x8s (though, his are clean), and I drove his, and he mine, and we both agreed my EVO delete felt MUCH more positive! He was not impressed when I likened his steering to that of my grandmothers Country Squire of long ago! Very Happy I found on the highway it too easily wandered, but it could be that his alignment is off as well, but it was very easy to "float" it, even more than my GMT800. I gave him a shim for the valve to bring pressure down 100 psi to see if that helps with that kit. I'm personally glad I had the dumb-luck of doing the 96-changeover unaware of the bypass kit till I searched around here!



Last edited by Ry_Z71 on Fri Sep 20, 2013 7:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Placed my RockAuto order for hoses today. Guess who has the Delco pump today? Yep, they do!!! Must be some supplier thing. Who knows.

Also found my PS leak today. It's leaking from the bottom of the pump. The hoses appear to be good. However, they are original so they can't be long for the world. Hoses are cheap insurance as we go into winter too.

I'll heed the advice to wait on the dealer parts to see what's included in the reman Delco PS pump. Will likely see the parts the end of next week.

Now if I can just get that BMW (Big Manure Wagon) fixed too...

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Personally, I cannot comment on the feel of the 96 retrofit option vs. the GM dlete kit, as I have never used the GM kit. I already had a spare 96 pump sitting around and needed to replace the hoses anyway on the 99 Tahoe, so my only real expense was a rebuild kit for the pump. Being that it was a 96 unit, it already had the non-EVO flow control valve and flow control fitting. Made sense to go that route in my case. If one has an EVO truck with a pump which is not in need of rebuilding/replacment and the hoses are good, I suppose the GM kit might be the more straightforward option for them.

Ry_Z71, do you recall the thickness of the shims you installed? The valves in stock form on the 99 and 96 pump were both shimmed (technically, epoxied) to a clearance of .024" when I removed them from pumps which had never been tampered with. I'm just curious what your exact shim thickness ended up being to get you the 100 psi reduction you saw. You have re-piqued my interest in trying this out now, but I had kind of resigned not to do more with it at this point, not owning a PS pump pressure gauge with which to quantify changes. I don't like to just throw parts around and make adjustments without being able to take some kind of empirical data with which to track the changes and their effects. Having a gauge is really the only way to conclude exactly what the shims are doing in terms of pressure changes.

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JR96CK wrote:
Ry_Z71, do you recall the thickness of the shims you installed? The valves in stock form on the 99 and 96 pump were both shimmed (technically, epoxied) to a clearance of .024" when I removed them from pumps which had never been tampered with. I'm just curious what your exact shim thickness ended up being to get you the 100 psi reduction you saw. You have re-piqued my interest in trying this out now, but I had kind of resigned not to do more with it at this point, not owning a PS pump pressure gauge with which to quantify changes. I don't like to just throw parts around and make adjustments without being able to take some kind of empirical data with which to track the changes and their effects. Having a gauge is really the only way to conclude exactly what the shims are doing in terms of pressure changes.


Are you looking for total shim thickness or the delta over?

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Actually, was interested in total thickness. I know stock is .024" with the hex nut epoxied in place, so I was curious what your total ended up being using shims.

All of my washers in the kit I bought are .024" thickness as well, so one of these shims would replicate stock. Two would yield .048" total, three would be .072" etc. I didn't know what thickness your shims were, so I wasn't sure if me adding the same number of shims would yield similar results or not without knowing actual thickness.

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JR96CK wrote:
Actually, was interested in total thickness. I know stock is .024" with the hex nut epoxied in place, so I was curious what your total ended up being using shims.

All of my washers in the kit I bought are .024" thickness as well, so one of these shims would replicate stock. Two would yield .048" total, three would be .072" etc. I didn't know what thickness your shims were, so I wasn't sure if me adding the same number of shims would yield similar results or not without knowing actual thickness.


Your shims are the same thickness as mine, and I have two shims in-place total. So, that gives me the stock offset, plus one shim height for a total shimmed standoff of 0.048 which gives about 100 psi reduction. Now, keep in mind I have the heavier gear in my truck compared to your 96 so the internal differences affect feel too. In any event, you shouldn't shim much more than 0.060 for a pump running a gear on a street driver because that will put the pressure too low.

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Ry_Z71 wrote:
Hog wrote:
Sounds like a lot of work that could be solved with an EVO delete kit for $50. 2 connections and you are done.

But I do agree the fact that a leaky hose needs replacing does factor into costing.

I liked the 88-96 steering on the highway, but IMO was too stiff everywhere else. But these are qualitative observations.

I'm loosing some fluid somewhere so I will be digging in some time soon.

$90 for the JB5 pump reman pump from Rock auto.

peace
Hog


Qualitatively, I'm going to disagree based on having compared my conversion to the EVO bypass last night. The buddy that loaned his billet Vortec distributor while I was searching for my misfire woes came by last night. We got to chatting about current repairs and behold he did the EVO bypass 6 months ago in his 99. My 98 and his 99 are identical, right down to wearing Michelin 265s on 16x8s (though, his are clean), and I drove his, and he mine, and we both agreed my EVO delete felt MUCH more positive! He was not impressed when I likened his steering to that of my grandmothers Country Squire of long ago! Very Happy I found on the highway it too easily wandered, but it could be that his alignment is off as well, but it was very easy to "float" it, even more than my GMT800. I gave him a shim for the valve to bring pressure down 100 psi to see if that helps with that kit. I'm personally glad I had the dumb-luck of doing the 96-changeover unaware of the bypass kit till I searched around here!

Wandering sounds like an alignment issue, esp if driving straight down the road. I can take my hand off the wheel and the 97 ecab (with EVO delete) goes staight down the road, but hat is more of a function of alignment than steering.

Too bad your friend wasnt close, I could throw it on the alignment rack and see what we see.

GM knew they screwed up, which is why the dont offer service parts, only a by pass kit. Man it was scary when corneing and the EVO allowed more assist all of a sudden.

But like I said, I dislike the under assist feeling of the other GMT trucks during slow speed driving. On the highway they are great. I remember test driving a 95 LT1 Vette new off the lots and boy was the steering stiff, way too stiff.

peace
Hog

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Ry_Z71 wrote:
Your shims are the same thickness as mine, and I have two shims in-place total. So, that gives me the stock offset, plus one shim height for a total shimmed standoff of 0.048 which gives about 100 psi reduction. Now, keep in mind I have the heavier gear in my truck compared to your 96 so the internal differences affect feel too. In any event, you shouldn't shim much more than 0.060 for a pump running a gear on a street driver because that will put the pressure too low.


OK, that clarifies things... thank you. Good info. Cool

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Hog wrote:
Ry_Z71 wrote:
Hog wrote:
Sounds like a lot of work that could be solved with an EVO delete kit for $50. 2 connections and you are done.

But I do agree the fact that a leaky hose needs replacing does factor into costing.

I liked the 88-96 steering on the highway, but IMO was too stiff everywhere else. But these are qualitative observations.

I'm loosing some fluid somewhere so I will be digging in some time soon.

$90 for the JB5 pump reman pump from Rock auto.

peace
Hog


Qualitatively, I'm going to disagree based on having compared my conversion to the EVO bypass last night. The buddy that loaned his billet Vortec distributor while I was searching for my misfire woes came by last night. We got to chatting about current repairs and behold he did the EVO bypass 6 months ago in his 99. My 98 and his 99 are identical, right down to wearing Michelin 265s on 16x8s (though, his are clean), and I drove his, and he mine, and we both agreed my EVO delete felt MUCH more positive! He was not impressed when I likened his steering to that of my grandmothers Country Squire of long ago! Very Happy I found on the highway it too easily wandered, but it could be that his alignment is off as well, but it was very easy to "float" it, even more than my GMT800. I gave him a shim for the valve to bring pressure down 100 psi to see if that helps with that kit. I'm personally glad I had the dumb-luck of doing the 96-changeover unaware of the bypass kit till I searched around here!

Wandering sounds like an alignment issue, esp if driving straight down the road. I can take my hand off the wheel and the 97 ecab (with EVO delete) goes staight down the road, but hat is more of a function of alignment than steering.

Too bad your friend wasnt close, I could throw it on the alignment rack and see what we see.

GM knew they screwed up, which is why the dont offer service parts, only a by pass kit. Man it was scary when corneing and the EVO allowed more assist all of a sudden.

But like I said, I dislike the under assist feeling of the other GMT trucks during slow speed driving. On the highway they are great. I remember test driving a 95 LT1 Vette new off the lots and boy was the steering stiff, way too stiff.

peace
Hog


Wrong impression of what I meant by wander. Slightest little adjustment on the wheel at speed causes too much reaction - i.e., excess assist exaggerating movement. Think 80s-era Cadillac if a Squire is too much before you! Razz

Also, I don't think GM screwed up. The speed sensitive adjustment is actually fantastic. The problem was the design of both ends - both the sensor on the column and the electronic valve.

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Ry_Z71 wrote:
Hog wrote:
Ry_Z71 wrote:
Hog wrote:
Sounds like a lot of work that could be solved with an EVO delete kit for $50. 2 connections and you are done.

But I do agree the fact that a leaky hose needs replacing does factor into costing.

I liked the 88-96 steering on the highway, but IMO was too stiff everywhere else. But these are qualitative observations.

I'm loosing some fluid somewhere so I will be digging in some time soon.

$90 for the JB5 pump reman pump from Rock auto.

peace
Hog


Qualitatively, I'm going to disagree based on having compared my conversion to the EVO bypass last night. The buddy that loaned his billet Vortec distributor while I was searching for my misfire woes came by last night. We got to chatting about current repairs and behold he did the EVO bypass 6 months ago in his 99. My 98 and his 99 are identical, right down to wearing Michelin 265s on 16x8s (though, his are clean), and I drove his, and he mine, and we both agreed my EVO delete felt MUCH more positive! He was not impressed when I likened his steering to that of my grandmothers Country Squire of long ago! Very Happy I found on the highway it too easily wandered, but it could be that his alignment is off as well, but it was very easy to "float" it, even more than my GMT800. I gave him a shim for the valve to bring pressure down 100 psi to see if that helps with that kit. I'm personally glad I had the dumb-luck of doing the 96-changeover unaware of the bypass kit till I searched around here!

Wandering sounds like an alignment issue, esp if driving straight down the road. I can take my hand off the wheel and the 97 ecab (with EVO delete) goes staight down the road, but hat is more of a function of alignment than steering.

Too bad your friend wasnt close, I could throw it on the alignment rack and see what we see.

GM knew they screwed up, which is why the dont offer service parts, only a by pass kit. Man it was scary when corneing and the EVO allowed more assist all of a sudden.

But like I said, I dislike the under assist feeling of the other GMT trucks during slow speed driving. On the highway they are great. I remember test driving a 95 LT1 Vette new off the lots and boy was the steering stiff, way too stiff.

peace
Hog


Wrong impression of what I meant by wander. Slightest little adjustment on the wheel at speed causes too much reaction - i.e., excess assist exaggerating movement. Think 80s-era Cadillac if a Squire is too much before you! Razz

Also, I don't think GM screwed up. The speed sensitive adjustment is actually fantastic. The problem was the design of both ends - both the sensor on the column and the electronic valve.

Speed compensated assist is great, just not the GMT 400 version that GM designed. Hence a screwup.

I just had a buddy drop in today with his 1996 that is a twin to my 97 truck that has the EVO bypass, he preferred the feel of the bypass to his underassisted feeling at parking manouever and city cornering speeds, he commented there was more assist at faster speeds than his 96, but did not feel darty, twtchy or over assisted.

My 98 K1500 has a completly different feel than the 97 C1500, both with functioning EVO systems. I am really disliking the ride of the K1500 compared to the 2wd, just no comparison. Must be those torsion bars I dislike, my 1st and last 4wd I', afraid.

peace
Hog

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Received the '96 PS pump in a Delco box. The good news is it is a Delco. The bad news is the Flow Control Valve and Fitting are not included. I just have threaded holes in the back of the pump. Ordered those two parts today thru gmpartsheadquarters.com

1996 Flow Control Valve:
GM #7809221
$29.83

1996 Flow Control Fitting
GM #26009894
$17.09

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510man wrote:
Received the '96 PS pump in a Delco box. The good news is it is a Delco. The bad news is the Flow Control Valve and Fitting are not included. I just have threaded holes in the back of the pump. Ordered those two parts today thru gmpartsheadquarters.com

1996 Flow Control Valve:
GM #7809221
$29.83

1996 Flow Control Fitting
GM #26009894
$17.09


Well, that sucks. Was hoping those parts would be included. Does the reman pump have the spring which goes in front of the flow control valve? If not, make sure to pull that out of your old pump so you can re-use it (that is the same for EVO and non-EVO trucks). And, if it were me, I would hold on to not only the spring but also the original flow control valve. Why give them a free part for core when they forced you to buy a new one? Turn a pump in for core with the EXACT same items included which they gave to you, IMO. I'm still a strong proponent of rebuidling these yourself, so I would hold on to the original and keep it around as a spare, especially if it wasn't whining and therefore only needed seals. But that's just a personal preference.

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The core is $38.50. The new unit is $50.99 once the core is returned. I won't spend a lot of time rebuilding something for $50. Also, I thought the 1996 and 1999 pumps were different. I'll have to go back and re-read the early part of this thread.

When all is said and done, I'll have $131.64 in parts and will have replaced the entire system less the steering box. That's kind of the "cry once" approach to fixing it. I"m hoping I'm never back in the PS. The truck is 14 years old. If the rebuild lasts as long, I doubt I'll have the truck 2027. But you never know!! Smile I like the 350 engine. They run forever. The 350 was the primary reason to order a truck out in the 1999 model year versus the new truck released in 2000.

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Understandable.

You were able to find the 5% discount code for RA, right? I was hoping you were at least able to save some money that way. It helps defray the cost of shipping, if nothing else. We keep that thread over in the Classifieds updated with the most recent discount codes. If the latest code mentioned there has expired though, just post up and someone will always chime in with an updated code. We just forget to update it every now and then.

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I'm tardy closing out here but it's given me time to drive the truck a good bit and assess the difference in steering. If the truck is not moving and you turn the wheel, there's quite a bit of difference. The 1999 EVO setup was one finger. The 1996 requires some muscle, especially if I just started the truck. However, if the truck is creeping just slightly, there's not much of a difference.

On the highway, the steering is a little lighter. Nothing big. Not at all like driving a 1967 Plymouth Valiant where you perpetually correct the steering. Truck tracks straight and requires very little correction. It's not a R&P steering setup so a little correction is expected. I was concerned the lightness would be extreme. It's not. The 1996 setup is nothing like the 1999 with the EVO disconnected.

Having now driven it two months, I wouldn't change the pressure. Reducing the pressure would likely make trailer backing a two handed job. I don't want that. I'm very pleased with how it worked out. I was at the Dragon's Tail when my last speed sensor failed. Scary stuff. The difference in steering is perfectly acceptable in exchange for peace of mind that the wheel won't arbitrarily jerk.

BTW, my replacement pump did have the 1996 Flow Control Valve GM #7809221 and the 1996 Flow Control Fitting GM #26009894 already installed. Having never replaced the PS pump, I was ignorant as to what I was looking for. They were installed so I have a new value and fitting that I can't return if anybody needs them for a 1999 conversion. I paid $29.83 and $17.09 respectively.

Thanks again for all the help in getting this sorted out. I've already turned two other Suburban owners on to this mod.

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So.......after bending a valve and having to remove the cylinder head I decided to replace the leaking power steering pump,
I got a reman pump from vato-zone and a 95 high pressure hose from napa. It is defiantly over assisted which I'm ok with,
the problem I'm having is once it's warm I have NO assist at low speed, I'm wondering if I got a shitty rebuild.

Thanx
-Jusitn

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The lack of boost seems to be between 500-750 RPM and 0 MPH. If I'm rolling or
have a little bit of engine speed it does fine.

Thanx
-Justin

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How to know you have a shitty rebuild.

Did you buy a rebuilt power steering pump from a local parts store?

If the answer is yes, you got a shitty rebuild.

Your only option if you want it right is to try and source either a new one or a GM reman.

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