so I got Mike's 24x setup ordered, I'm going to put it on while I've got the heads off to do some work. its gonna be a busy next month or 2, with the following going on:
Heads,
Whipple/intercooler,
24x setup,
new LC1 (I broke the old one I had, d'oh),
and installing a boost/vacuum, and fuel pressure gauge in the cab.

oh, and I'm replacing the TOB and clutch disc on my T56 as well.

I'll try to get pictures up of the 24x setup as I go along.

edit- for the LS31, I'm already running a true MPFI intake manifold, and 411 PCM with an 2002 OS, for those that didn't know already.



Last edited by Aloicious on Sun Nov 22, 2009 4:28 am; edited 8 times in total

Aloicious,
Reread that post by Stealth. I'm not sure that is what he meant. I read it a few times.

Jeff

T56 I'm jealous !!

Lextech wrote:

Aloicious,
Reread that post by Stealth. I'm not sure that is what he meant. I read it a few times.

Jeff

I'm not sure either, I asked in that thread but he hasn't responded. he did say he was running a zO6 OS though, either way, mine will be done pretty soon.
edit - I talked with him and you're correct, he's not running the 24x setup yet.

l31sleeper wrote:

T56 I'm jealous!!

the T56 has been in for a couple months, I've had some problems with the TOB though, and I'm just running a regular run of the mill disc, so while I'm in replacing the crappy TOB with a (much better quality) Delco one, I'll swap the disc out for something that will better handle the added power from the whipple.



Last edited by Aloicious on Thu Jun 11, 2009 2:18 pm; edited 1 time in total

Might I recommend the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch? Works awesome in my buddy's Camaro, isn't too much stiffer than stock, and has excellent holding power.

Sherk wrote:

Might I recommend the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch? Works awesome in my buddy's Camaro, isn't too much stiffer than stock, and has excellent holding power.

Thanks Sherk, I'll keep that in mind, what I'd really like to do is switch from the pull style Lt1 clutch to a push style clutch then I can run one of Mcleod's new twin disc setups. they're supposed to feel like stock, but hold 800-900 hp, and they only cost around $700 vs the $1500 of their regular street twin's.

but that will have to wait for another day unfortunately.

Ah, yeah. I didn't ever really like that clutch design myself. I had a Weir setup on my LT1 T56 to run it behind a Vortec 383 (which didn't stay in the truck for long). That allowed me to use a "normal" flywheel and clutch, however it was a custom TOB, which sucked, IMO. Not that it was a horrible TOB, but because if you had difficulties with it, you'd have to send off for another one, or a rebuild. I like stock parts.

When I changed over to the LQ4, I swapped midplate, input shaft, and bellhousing to the LS1 style. I could have left it LT1, and run a conversion flywheel with the Weir setup, but again with the stock stuff. Much nicer to be able to go to a parts house and get parts when you need them.

Sherk wrote:

Ah, yeah. I didn't ever really like that clutch design myself. I had a Weir setup on my LT1 T56 to run it behind a Vortec 383 (which didn't stay in the truck for long). That allowed me to use a "normal" flywheel and clutch, however it was a custom TOB, which sucked, IMO. Not that it was a horrible TOB, but because if you had difficulties with it, you'd have to send off for another one, or a rebuild. I like stock parts.

When I changed over to the LQ4, I swapped midplate, input shaft, and bellhousing to the LS1 style. I could have left it LT1, and run a conversion flywheel with the Weir setup, but again with the stock stuff. Much nicer to be able to go to a parts house and get parts when you need them.

yeah I'm the same way too...I'd much rather just go to the parts store and get something rather than having to special order it.
the only plus with the LT1 clutch setup is the slave cylinder being outside the bellhousing, so if there is a slave problem its real easy to get to, plus with the Ltx setup you can run a '92 camaro 305 slave which is aluminum instead of plastic and has a built in bleeder screw so you you can bleed it conventionally.

so it figures, I was supposed to get all the 24x stuff today, which it did, but the mail guy came durring the 1 hour I was away from the house, so I won't be able to go pick it up until tommorow. oh well, I'll get some pics of it all when I pick it up.

so I got all the stuff today from Mike at EFI connection, it looks great!, the reluctor is just outstanding quality. Good Job Mike!
I got a bunch of stuff from him to do the complete setup, but here is some pics of the main components, my camera didn't like me today so some of the picture quality isn't the best:

reluctor, LS2 coil, Aluminum dist cap:


and a close up of each one,




I'll keep posting updates and some more pics as the progress on my "LS31" continues.

well I was sick a good portion of last week so progress on this is slow, but I did get the trans all in, just need to fit the new slave up (its a '92 5 speed aluminum slave, MUCH better than the plastic T56 POS slave, plus its got a bleeder screw, which the T56 one lacks.) everything went pretty smooth, well as much as it can trying to install a trans by myself. but it is good, and I got some Molyb grease to use for the input shaft bushing and clutch fork, because the molyb thread has me thinking about using molyb everywhere. heh.

plus my heads just got surfaced and got some angle aluminum welded to the new valve covers to make brackets for the coils.

no new pics or anything right now.



Last edited by Aloicious on Mon Jun 29, 2009 7:06 pm; edited 1 time in total

out with the old:


in with the new:


ignore the dirtyness of the block, I need to clean it a bit.

What is the Advantage of Updating the L31 w the 24x and coils?

Gilbert wrote:

What is the Advantage of Updating the L31 w the 24x and coils?

getting rid of the distributor is a big plus for me, my fuel lines run right by the distributor, so its pretty crowded there with all the plug wires and crab cap, fuel lines and regulator, coil, and ignition module, harness wires, etc. plus my truck likes to eat up caps and rotors fairly quickly IMO which I don't like, so the coil per plug will eliminate that as a source of maintanence and problems. the other main advantage is tuning control with the 411 and EFILive, and since the each coil only has one plug to spark, there is alot of time to work with for things like dwell time, etc, and the 24x resolution for the crank sensor allows for some better tuning control since MANY tables work off the 24x signal, and there is little to no room for alterations with a 4x signal.

edit- forgot to mention, with the early SBC 24x reluctor (not the LT1 reluctor though), according to Mike, he made it so you can run a double roller timing chain, which is a no-go for the 4x reluctor. I'm just running a cloyes chain set for the L31 that I've had in there for like a year and a half, its been working well.

got the intake and heads off today, going to prep the block and clean everything up to put the new heads/gaskets/studs...etc. on probably on wednesday. no pics, but progress is being made.

haven't updated in a little while, heads are on, working on the intake, I need to fab a different map hold down since Matt's one won't work on my intake at all. got the intake all cleaned out, that SOB was dirty, any only with a little over 1 year on it took almost 5 full hours to clean out decently, it even stained the inside of the intake a little brown. And due to the extreme carbonizing I've decided to block off the EGR. so I will try that for a while and see how it goes, I may loose a small fraction of the MPG's but I'd rather have it clean. afterall cleanliness is next to longevity. I also re-sealed my FPR fittings, looks like there may have been a small leak on a couple of them, I also put in my electric FP sending unit in that I will run wires to into the cab for the gauge, I'm also looking for ways to install the MAP sensor for the boost gauge too. those two gauges are going in the overhead console with the socal mount. then I have a single A pillar pod to mount my AFR gauge. though I still need to colormatch it to the interior. I'm having trouble finding a place that can do good paint colormatching and loading it into a aerosol can.

I did some preliminary pushrod measuring on a couple cylinders, #1 looked really good with the 7.122 rods (which BTW are the stock L31 and ZZ4 rods), however #6 looked like the rod was a little long. I've made some "solid" lifters to use simply for testing the pushrods so I can eliminate the compression of the lifters on differing valves as a cause of discrepancy (especially as the truck has not been run in over a month). I basically disassembled a regular hydraulic lifter, removed the internal spring/etc, and replaced it with washers to give the same measurements as a normal lifter would be with about .025-.03" of preload set in it and used some marine epoxy to keep it all in place and fill up the gaps. this should let me analyze the pushrod length and adjust accordingly without having different lifter compressions as a source of error.

anyone know a good place to get custom sized pushrods if I need them? Summit doesn't have any sizes close enough to 7.122 to be able to use. I'm hoping my new GMPP ZZ4 rods will work and that the heads/gasket change won't offset it enough to require custom ones, but I'm not going to use them if they won't. I've put too much time and money into this to cheap out now and not get the correct pushrods.

24x reluctor is in, new cover and 24x sensor are all on, harmonic balancer is on too. I've got all my wiring supplies here at work right now, I was hoping to start working on the coil harness tonight but didn't get time, perhaps tommorow night.

I've also started working on my tune, I've decided to keep the '02 camaro/corvette base since it is the same OS as I am using now, and I can just transfer the pertanent tables over to my current tune. I was investigating using the '03 Zo6 tune as a base, but I cannot see any benefit in the available tables for that, and there seems to be less support for the '03 OS's than there are for the '02's. I was also concerned about the tach output since the stock harness wires the tach to the coil signal, I am going to try the PCM tach output and hopefully it provides an accurate output, it's pin 10, though I can't remember if it is C1 or C2 right now, I've got it documented somewhere. I think it'll work well.

on another note, I got my "39"# injectors balanced and matched and cleaned by RC engineering (they're the f*rd blue giant's, so they're actually almost 42# at 4 bar pressure), they came back very good, all within 0.7% and I scored a high resolution scope from ebay so I'll hopefully be able to scope them to find the voltage offset and a few other calibrations that are practically impossible to find. in fact I'm looking into building a small bench to test various injectors and get some good data on them since it seems that info is impossible to come by for people like us who would like that data.

I'm also looking at how to mount the intercooler heat exhanger, I got the 12x12x2 one and it looks like it may be more difficult to fit than I thought, though I don't have a trans cooler or anything like that to get in the way so I can probably work something out, I may have to cut the filler cap off, and tap and plug the hole, it seems to be in the way more than anything else. if 99bluetahoe is reading this, you talked in your intercooler thread about moving the AC condenser back some by flipping the rubber mounts, how did you do that, I don't see how flipping the mounts would do anything on mine. there is about 2" of space between the AC condenser and the radiator, I'd like to harness some of that space if I could, I'll have to pull some more stuff off and see what I can do on that.

once again, no pics, but I hope to have some soon.

Hey Justin,
If you don't want to dismantle the harness you can connect the White wire of the Ignition module to the White
wire of the Original coil connector for the tach input. I made a small wiring file for doing the CNP deal on trucks that have already done the 0411 swap. I know you have probably got that figured out, but let me know if you want a copy.

Jeff

Lextech wrote:

Hey Justin,
If you don't want to dismantle the harness you can connect the White wire of the Ignition module to the White
wire of the Original coil connector for the tach input. I made a small wiring file for doing the CNP deal on trucks that have already done the 0411 swap. I know you have probably got that figured out, but let me know if you want a copy.

Jeff

heh thats exactally what I was planning on doing, great minds think alike. I've actually already got a copy of your wiring file for the CNP, I just started the wiring though so I haven't had much time to investigate too far, I'll let you know how it works out and if there are any issues or updates for it.

Cool,
I didn't remember giving you the file. Then again, I can't remember what I had for dinner last night.
I've got all the stuff for doing the CNP deal, but I've got to get this house addition finished before I can play
with the truck---BUMMER. The wife says I can't play in the garage until the house is finished---I told her, She
needs to get her priorities straight!!!

Jeff

Lextech wrote:

Cool,
I didn't remember giving you the file. Then again, I can't remember what I had for dinner last night.
I've got all the stuff for doing the CNP deal, but I've got to get this house addition finished before I can play
with the truck---BUMMER. The wife says I can't play in the garage until the house is finished---I told her, She
needs to get her priorities straight!!!

Jeff

women just don't understand.

what coils are you planning on running?