14 bolt SF project

Performance modifications, tips & tricks

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hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Post by hquick »

That's because he's OLD! Lol!

hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Drum brakes diagram/pic's

Post by hquick »

In my haste to get this thing pulled apart....I neglected to take pic's.
Anyone got an exploded diagram or pic's of the brake assembly so I can put it all back together correctly.

daddy_dandy
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Location: buy me a beer

Post by daddy_dandy »

I don't but you could pull a drum off your other rear end. I don't see why they wouldn't be the same.

hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Post by hquick »

Yeah....thought of that.
That's probably what I'll end up doing.

hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Post by hquick »


Bowtiewarrior
Posts: 417
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: flying past ford trucks...

Post by Bowtiewarrior »

The 14sf is very diff from the 10 bolt I have my 14 sf drums still assembled I can get you a couple of pictures by thursday morning if you would like.

daddy_dandy
Posts: 1944
Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:56 am
Location: buy me a beer

Post by daddy_dandy »

Oh yeah, that's a lot different.

hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Post by hquick »

Bowtiewarrior wrote:The 14sf is very diff from the 10 bolt I have my 14 sf drums still assembled I can get you a couple of pictures by thursday morning if you would like.
That would be excellent...thanks

Bowtiewarrior
Posts: 417
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: flying past ford trucks...

Post by Bowtiewarrior »

hquick wrote:
Bowtiewarrior wrote:The 14sf is very diff from the 10 bolt I have my 14 sf drums still assembled I can get you a couple of pictures by thursday morning if you would like.
That would be excellent...thanks
Not a prob, I'll try to get them for ya tonight.

Bent1
Posts: 1843
Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2000 12:00 am
Location: SF Bayarea CA 1996 K3500/Sub/7.4L

Re: Drum brakes diagram/pic's

Post by Bent1 »

hquick wrote:In my haste to get this thing pulled apart....I neglected to take pic's.
Anyone got an exploded diagram or pic's of the brake assembly so I can put it all back together correctly.
First series from a 1997 7.2K-GVWR Suburban (12 bolt). Second my 1996 8.6K-GVWR Suburban (14 bolt).

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My 1996 K3500 Sub's rear brakes
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A Ford pickup's front rotors, or what is left of them...
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hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Post by hquick »

Thanks Ben.
The more pic's the better.
I'll take pic's of mine putting it back together so no one else has these issues.
Wow! That F___ F___......that other front rotor must keep nice and cool with so little surface area and so much room for ventilation of the disc.
Never seen one of that design before. Must be new and innovative! Lol! :lol:


What ele are you going to do at work?
Lol!

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hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Post by hquick »

Getting there.

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L31Sleeper
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Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:19 pm
Location: Modesto, CA

Post by L31Sleeper »

Howard there is nothing wrong with drum brakes as long as they stay adjusted. It's true they don't expel heat as well as
disc brakes, when I worked at the race shop we drilled as many wholes in the backing plate as we could without weakening
it and if necessary add a cooling duct. This was because the rule book required drum brakes.

hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Post by hquick »

Remembered I'd taken a heap of pic's of the brake setup of my 10 bolt when I did the Trutrac installation.
Both look the same.

Right!
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Left!
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One thing I did notice with this 14bolt setup. There's a bar that goes between the shoes which I would think should be left and right specific. Both are the same in the 14bolt. So...either the factory ran out of the RH side units that day....or...????

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CrazyHoe
Posts: 6228
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:30 am
Location: Mtl; '98 2dr4x4 Tahoe, L31,Hookers Long T, 0411,EFIlive, 4L80-E,dual 3",marine int+inj

Post by CrazyHoe »

L31Sleeper wrote:Howard there is nothing wrong with drum brakes as long as they stay adjusted. It's true they don't expel heat as well as
disc brakes, when I worked at the race shop we drilled as many wholes in the backing plate as we could without weakening
it and if necessary add a cooling duct. This was because the rule book required drum brakes.
I've heard of drilling the drum itself too... Helps with cooling/gassing and water expelling?

Bowtiewarrior
Posts: 417
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:02 pm
Location: flying past ford trucks...

Post by Bowtiewarrior »

Looking good I was going to up load pics but there are much beter ones now.

daddy_dandy
Posts: 1944
Joined: Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:56 am
Location: buy me a beer

Post by daddy_dandy »

Those look so much stronger than the drums I have on my 5 lug. The 5 lug drums, and weak rear end for that matter, have absolutely no business in a full size pickup. The springs are heavier, the star has more teeth on it, the two springs at the top provide much better stability. Those are badass Howard. I definitely need a rear end swap.

CrazyHoe
Posts: 6228
Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2008 8:30 am
Location: Mtl; '98 2dr4x4 Tahoe, L31,Hookers Long T, 0411,EFIlive, 4L80-E,dual 3",marine int+inj

Post by CrazyHoe »

hquick wrote:

What else are you going to do at work?
Lol!
Oh yeah, well today I went home at 10am, did a stop at the auto paint shop... must of spent an hour there, (gorgeous young girl at the cash register... probably store owner's daughter 8) )... Arrived at home, removed drive-shaft, changed U-joint, reinstall everything.... Back on the road heading back to work... it's Friday, major traffic... Arrived at work in time to type this and sign out... no work hours lost! :P :lol:


All in a day's work.


I have admit, I do like your work conditions too! :wink:

Got to go! Just got a call from admitting, major panic! They lost a patient's file again... Looks to me like someone's surgery will be postpone... :lol: :roll:

hquick
Posts: 4689
Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:56 pm
Location: Melbourne, Oz-----98 K1500 LT Suburban. RHD, 0411, Whipple, Marine, 4L80E, Trutrac, H/boost,E-Fans

Post by hquick »

Had to work today (another public holiday) so I got some more done.
Machinist finished off the sight glass unit so I tacked it into place and I'll get a 'real' welder to weld it in on Monday.
I'll get a couple of stainless allen key type plugs instead of the brass stops.

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Bent1
Posts: 1843
Joined: Sat Jan 01, 2000 12:00 am
Location: SF Bayarea CA 1996 K3500/Sub/7.4L

Post by Bent1 »

Oh, thats what that is...a sight glass !

Careful off roading and if you do, hope it is made of polycarb

The sight glasses I've used on gear boxes had some leak. They weren't
like yours and mention as a just in case to make sure the gasket
and sealer is done well.

Also, if running synthetic, there is a reaction with silicone RTVs that
cause leaks with the axle seals. Don't know why, but make sure
to use non-silicone sealer.

Is that stainless or alu? Assume stainless, so weldable. If alu, then
braze, right?

Going to have a magnet in the drain plug?

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