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1999 TAHOE - Electric Door Locks fail suddenly
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Post 1999 TAHOE - Electric Door Locks fail suddenly 
Folks,

Love this truck... 5.7 liter...

My door locks were working fine all last week. Suddenly they do now.

My drivers side door lock fails
My passenger side door lock fails

So I do not think it is local to any door.

I look at the fuse boxes under hood and left side of dash between door and dash... nothing says door locks.

Is there a fuse or relay for this?

Where is it?

thanks in advance

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Cheapest first try is to make sure your battery/electrical system voltage
is high enough.

Know when my 1996 Suburban's battery needs attention when some
of the door locks either act sluggish or doesn't fully open/close'm.

Next would be the connectors, but I've never touched mine, yet

Then the solenoids (they/some call them motors for some reason) and
the fasteners holding them to the door innards.

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Ben... thanks but your reply don't help. I already stated the lielyhood of something local to the door is remote. All door locks are failing.

Where is the fuse?

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Just so we're clear, are the locks not working when you push the switch on the door or when you push the button on the key fob?

If it's the key fob and the fob battery is new/good, try this:

Transmitter Synchronization
1. Resynchronization may be necessary due to the security method used by the RKE system.
2. The transmitter does not send the same signal twice to the receiver. The receiver will not respond to a signal which has been previously sent. This prevents anyone from recording and playing back the signal from the transmitter.
3. Resynchronization will be necessary if any of the following are true:
* You change the transmitter battery.
* You disconnect the vehicle battery.
* You push the transmitter button 256 times out of the range of the receiver.
4. In order to resynchronize the transmitter with the receiver, perform the following steps:
1. Stand close to the vehicle.
2. Simultaneously press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter for seven seconds.
The door locks should cycle to confirm resynchronization.

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nhhockeyplayer wrote:
Ben... thanks but your reply don't help. I already stated the lielyhood of something local to the door is remote. All door locks are failing.

Where is the fuse?


I just tackled my door locks a couple weeks ago. if you're fuse setup is the same as mine, there is a fuse and a circuit breaker that both run the door locks, they're both in the drivers side door jam fuse block. if I remember right, the cig lighter fuse also runs the door locks (I wanna say it's fuse 15 but I could be wrong), and the power seat circuit breaker runs the locks as well. I'm just on my way out to work on some electrical stuff with the truck, I'll double check the fuse and breaker info for you.

FYI. my problem ended up being both actuators just happened to go out at the exact same time, unlikely I know, but they work great now. you may also have an issue with on of the actual switches, I've heard of them going out too and if one is out then it can shut down both since they're wired together. I can e-mail you the wiring schematics I have if you'd like. but check your fuses first, and check your battery output as ben suggested

EDIT - just got back in, looks like the fuse is : #13 - 20A - Cig Ltr
and the circuit breaker is #A - PWR ACCY

both of those supply power to the door locks as well, keep in mind this is for my '96 C1500, I have power door locks but I DON'T have remote door locks. so yours may be different.

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Thanks guys... I still haven't yet fixed.

I saw two circuit breakers inside my door jam fuse box. "Power ACCY"... one was for windows... the other for electric seat... not sure if these feed power door locks. They both appear to work.
So those are not broken.

I am targeting a door lock relay underneath the steering column off to the right I think. Dealership wants $44 but I found it at a value discount auto shop for $22. Will this work? Who knows. What do you think of this now? Would I need to resynchronize anything? If so how do i resynchronize?

Thanks

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Check the resistor across the relays with a DVOM,should get 60-100 ohms. Any more and you have a bad relay.
Check to make sure you have 12v at the door lock switch.
I can't remember if the door locks are grounded from the passenger side switch or driver.
If one lock switch goes out(and it is the one with the ground circuit) then none of the door locks will work,pretty sure that holds true for the door locks and not just the windows.

A wiring diagram would help if someone could post one up.

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The door lock wiring diagrams are in this PDF:

http://www.pswired.com/misc/pacaudio/syswire.pdf

The locks are wired differently depending on whether there is keyless entry or now and 2/4 door.

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From 2dr/no keyless diagram.

Diagram shows it grounding through the driver side switch.
Check for 12v on the Orange wire,if you've got 12v at the switch than check resistance from black wire to ground(should be no more than .5ohm resistance.
To test the switch this should work.
resistance check
Orange-lt blue-should be open at rest and little to no resistance when lock is pressed
Orange-white-should be open at rest and little to no resistance when Unlock is pressed.

Do it from the driver side switch.

From passenger side switch
Orange should have 12V
Lt blue-Gray-should be open at rest and little to no resistance when lock is pressed.
White-Tan-Should be open at rest and little to no resistance when Unlock is pressed.

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Thanks guys... upon ordering the relay... it turned out to be the lighter fuse.

Now I would never have guessed that.

This frickin truck ROCKS !

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nhhockeyplayer wrote:
Thanks guys... upon ordering the relay... it turned out to be the lighter fuse.

Now I would never have guessed that.

This frickin truck ROCKS !


I believe the relay would have only affected wireless control of the locks, you would have still been able to use the switches on the door. but I don't have a wireless remote, and I don't have a relay, so I could be wrong on that. glad you found the problem.

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Post Actuators 
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FYI. my problem ended up being both actuators just happened to go out at the exact same time, unlikely I know, but they work great now. you may also have an issue with on of the actual switches, I've heard of them going out too and if one is out then it can shut down both since they're wired together. I can e-mail you the wiring schematics I have if you'd like. but check your fuses first, and check your battery output as ben suggested


How much did you pay for the actuators and where did you get them from? I am thinking this is my problem -- If I push the unlock button repeatedly I can get the locks to move slowly up or down until they finally unlock or lock.

thanks
Ryan

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Post Re: Actuators 
Ru wrote:

How much did you pay for the actuators and where did you get them from? I am thinking this is my problem -- If I push the unlock button repeatedly I can get the locks to move slowly up or down until they finally unlock or lock.

thanks
Ryan


I got mine from the dealer here. IIRC they were around $120 a piece, but I knew the parts dept guy and I ended up getting them for somewhere around $90 a piece. still pretty expensive and you can probably find them online cheaper but I had the doors apart and didnt want to wait for shipping/etc, so I just bit the bullet and got the ones from the dealer.

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Post Gads...stop posting problems !!! ;) 
Now my 1996 GMC Suburban's door locks are 'slow' and sometimes
don't work!

Just the two passenger side.

Recharged the battery (it's not used often cuz of the 7.4L's thirst)
and they work 'better', but still a bit slow.

Guess I'm a bit more interested in this now...

Solenoids really don't wear out from my past experience, but since
you guys solved it with new solenoids, wonder what is wearing out? Coil
should not wear out. Iron core and armature might wear a bit, but
there should be a sleeve in there to prevent metal to metal. Rust?

I've had solenoids last millions of cycles, but they were bigger (guessing)
and of course industrial application.

Any pictures? Curious about that humongo rivet Scottie complained about,
or was that for the window crank motor?

Passenger side window 'squeaks' when rolling up the final 10% or so and
guess some oil/grease in order.

Any suggestions before I tear into this? I'm noodling making up an under
side mirror courtesy/side marker/sig light that lights the pavement area when
the alarm unlocks & turns on th interior lights. LEDs and a resistor to the
ground lead to control the current/voltage. Side marker/signal will have to
be fished through the harness to the side/sig lights on the fender. Should
I risk no fuses and depend on the existing circuit fuses?...or put in 3 fuses?
Know the answer, just noodling how tight to pinch that penny...

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Check the electrical connectors behind the passenger side kick panel. I think both door lock actuators on the passenger side are fed through there. If wet and corroded, there you go.

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At $120 to $90 bucks each, wanted as much info before tearing it apart.

Thought/hoping just connection problems.

I've had some problems with solenoids, but that was either worn cavity and the
gap would either close or be too large, so they buzzzed. Or the coil burned out
or got water in them to rust out & short.

Wonder if it would be a good time to upgrade the door speakers...

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Bent1 wrote:
At $120 to $90 bucks each, wanted as much info before tearing it apart.

Thought/hoping just connection problems.

I've had some problems with solenoids, but that was either worn cavity and the
gap would either close or be too large, so they buzzzed. Or the coil burned out
or got water in them to rust out & short.

Wonder if it would be a good time to upgrade the door speakers...


I don't blame you, I would think it might be a connection thing since its both passenger side doors. check your wiring and see if you find anything problematic. unfortunately I don't have any experience with burban wiring, so someone else might be able to help more.

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Bent1 -- Do your passenger door locks work intermintly or are they completely dead? Mine are very intermint. I am going to check in to the wiring, but I have a feeling it is the actuators for me. I know the prices are all over the place, but rockauto.com has some Doorman Lock Actuators for around $35 a piece.


late
Ru

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They 'work' each time, but the passenger side (front and rear) don't fully
'unlock' *SOME* times. At those times not authoritatively like the drives
side. Sluggish or meek is what I'd call it and the door isn't unlocked though
the lever is 'almost' all the way unlocked.

After recharging the battery (dash gauge reads about 13.x volts before),
or driving a bit, they work just fine.

So, is it low voltage. Shouldn't be, as the drives side works just fine.

Or are the solenoids going bad?

Or wiring reducing the voltage further?

I'd like it to be wiring and just needs to have the contacts cycled
and lube'd with contact conditioner

-Ben

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Ben1, your actuators are going bad. Not voltage, not contacts, not anything else....
Get two new ones and be done with it.
(I fiddled with mine too for a long time too before I finally accepted that indeed they needed to be replaced)
It's a simple change. You'll need to drill out two rivets each side and of course a blind-rivet gun to replace them.
Only the front actuators are affected, they are of weak design. I have never heard of the rear ones failing.

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