Well a buddy bought me 1 for $42US shipped to my door, early b-day present. No border charges for once as teh guys marked the contents as havng a $5 value. thanks guys.
teh sensor is a brand new Delphi unit, it was used in the Northstar Caddi, Vette LS6, LS1 and all teh trucks from 99 up to present on all the V8s and Duramax.

Its 10mm larger than my current L31 MAFS.
This MAFS has intergral IAT and MAFS function.

My question is, can I just get a weatherpack connector that fits the new MAFS and just wire up the 3 MAFS wires and leave my L31 divorced IAT in place in my modified K&N FIPK? Or do I have to wire up both the IAT and MAFS from the 85mm unit?
I guess what I am wondering is if I continue to use tha L31 divorced IAT sensor will teh new MAFS work when only hooking up 3 of its 5 terminals?
I allready know that 3 of the 5 are MAFS and 2 of the 5 are for the integral IAT.

I have found 2 different lists of MAFS frequencies, the 1 that Ken and Blown are using and another list from somewhere else. The 01 Vettes mAFS have a screen, the 02-04 Vette MAFS dont.
I will input the MAFS frequencies for the 2001 screened mafs with Tunercat.
Do you guys think that will work allright.

Does anyone know if there was a larger MAFS from 02-04 in the LS^ ZO6 Vettes, or is the different part number due to the descreened MAFS only?

Irregardless, I will be leaving this screen in, its overkill for me now anyways, but my old L31 pooched out on me.


Thanks guys
paul

Casper electronics makes the combined harness for the new MAF & it just looks like they run the IAT wires into the 2 terminals on the MAF like you said. Not sure if you can just not use the one in the MAF like your thinking, I guess it will either work or it wont? Have not tried that, I know when I had mine installed with the stock table it was so lean it would not idle. Have not tried either of the new tables yet still working on the MI, at a stopping point due to the fuel lines. The local Napa or Hyd shop could not get me from point A to B on the fuel lines, so I mail ordered some stuff today.

Good luck let me know how the MAF install goes.

Boosted

D**n I thought I was logged in!

Boosted

Boosted, when you were running so lean at idle that it would not idle, how did you know that? What signs were present?

Thanks.

I have an Autometer Air / Fuel that has been re-calibrated to read a narrower scale over the stock Autometer A/F & it just pegged the gauge to the lean side, switched MAF's back & the gauge was just slightly to the rich side of Stoich. Also on the large MAf just after tip in it would get enough of an injector shot to very slightly rev to 1100 or so rpm but again everything was lean on the gauge, its not a wideband, but seems to be fairly consitent with the scanner also.

Boosted

Hog, where can I find the information on the Z06 MAF tables to input into the stock L31 calibration? I want to switch MAF sensors to 85mm.

Also, which table does it apply to in the TunerCat program?

Pauly I have the same MAF that I plan to put on my 98 GMC. I have checked into this for myself and I believe it will work fine. The wire colors are even the same on our MAF/IAT pigtails as the 5 wire MAF. I purchased the 5wire connector and wire assy. from an A/C Delco auto parts but, all the wires are WHITE. I know the colors are not an issue----just thought you should know.

Boosted-Z71 wrote:

Have not tried either of the new tables yet still working on the MI, at a stopping point due to the fuel lines. The local Napa or Hyd shop could not get me from point A to B on the fuel lines, so I mail ordered some stuff today.

Good luck let me know how the MAF install goes.

Boosted

Hey, I recall you mentioning months ago you had a top shelf hydraulic shop that never let you down when it came to fabricating pressure lines? I have been meaning to ask you what you used to shorten the stock marine fuel lines, and seeing this post reminded me.

It seems like no two people have used the same combination of parts for a fuel line solution. I am still waiting for someone to come up with the simplest and most cost effective solution that all others can follow, but have not seen it yet.

So, what did you end up doing?

Stealth97 wrote:

Hog, where can I find the information on the Z06 MAF tables to input into the stock L31 calibration? I want to switch MAF sensors to 85mm.

Also, which table does it apply to in the TunerCat program?

Here is a 75mm MAFS and 85mm MAFS table

Here is the stock 75mm Delphi/Holden MAF table:
2.14 2.59 3.07 3.59 4.15 4.74 5.4 6.1 6.85 7.67 8.55 9.48 10.5 11.59 12.76 14.02 15.34 16.95 18.66 20.52 22.29 24.16 26.16 28.26 30.48 32.83 35.3 37.91 40.66 43.54 46.57 49.74 53.06 56.55 60.19 63.98 67.95 72.09 76.41 80.91 85.58 90.45 95.5 100.74 106.2 111.84 117.7 123.76 130.04 136.54 143.26 150.2 157.38 164.79 172.44 180.32 188.46 196.84 205.48 214.38 223.53 232.95 242.64 252.6 262.84 273.37 284.17 295.27 306.66 318.34 330.33 342.62 355.21 368.13 381.35 394.9 408.77 422.97 437.5 452.37 467.58 483.13 499.02 511.99 511.99

Here is the stock 85mm Delphi/Holden MAF table:
1.57 1.85 2.17 2.55 2.98 3.45 3.95 4.48 5.07 5.73 6.43 7.2 8.02 8.91 9.84 10.84 11.9 13.05 14.27 15.59 16.99 18.52 20.14 21.86 23.66 25.57 27.58 29.71 31.93 34.26 36.69 39.25 41.96 44.87 47.91 51.12 54.41 57.95 61.59 65.38 69.38 73.48 77.78 82.24 86.81 91.66 96.63 101.77 107.16 112.67 118.43 124.38 130.46 136.84 143.34 150.02 156.95 164.02 171.38 178.95 186.66 194.8 203.1 211.66 220.54 229.6 239.02 248.68 258.52 268.77 279.23 289.98 301.16 312.55 324.4 336.62 349.08 362.22 375.66 389.52 404.04 418.89 434.44 450.55 467.05

I have been thinking about getting a MAFS table from someone with a 6.0 or 5.3L truck. The GMT800 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 and 8.1 ALL use the same 85MM MAFS that the 01-04 LS1 and 01 and 04 LS6 Vettes use.

I would try the 85 mm table above as it will get you close. Then tune via a wideband O2.

In Tunercat the MAf frequency tables are under: TABLES>FUEL TABLES>MAF SENSOR AIRFLOW vs. OUTPUT FREQUENCY. There will be a list of numbers, just input the list above.

peace
Hog

Lextech wrote:

Pauly I have the same MAF that I plan to put on my 98 GMC. I have checked into this for myself and I believe it will work fine. The wire colors are even the same on our MAF/IAT pigtails as the 5 wire MAF. I purchased the 5wire connector and wire assy. from an A/C Delco auto parts but, all the wires are WHITE. I know the colors are not an issue----just thought you should know.

Thanx Lextech, I also have bought that connector assembly from GM, the 1 that has the 5 wires and comes with the 5 crimp and solder connectors.

Its good to know that the colours on the MAF/IAT wires will match up.
thanks
peace
Hog

Pecos wrote:

Boosted-Z71 wrote:

Have not tried either of the new tables yet still working on the MI, at a stopping point due to the fuel lines. The local Napa or Hyd shop could not get me from point A to B on the fuel lines, so I mail ordered some stuff today.

Good luck let me know how the MAF install goes.

Boosted

Hey, I recall you mentioning months ago you had a top shelf hydraulic shop that never let you down when it came to fabricating pressure lines? I have been meaning to ask you what you used to shorten the stock marine fuel lines, and seeing this post reminded me.

It seems like no two people have used the same combination of parts for a fuel line solution. I am still waiting for someone to come up with the simplest and most cost effective solution that all others can follow, but have not seen it yet.

So, what did you end up doing?

My fuel line solution only cost me $16CAN. I bought 2 lengths of the appropriate hi pressure fuel injection hose and 8 fuel injection clamps, the good ones with teh actual bolt that tightens the assembly.
I took a brake line crimp tool and outflared the 2 stainless QD fitting ends of the fuel rails, then slipped the fuel hoses over the fuel rails and teh hardlines that come up behind teh block on the divers side of the truck. I double clamped each connection and have no leaks. I even clamped the return hose once to spike the fuel pressure on the supply side really high. The conections passed the test. My way isnt the prettiest way to do things but was the right price for me.

peace
Hog

I wound up going with the Lt-1 fuel rail adapters & Aeroquip push-on hose & AN fittings. It was not cheap but a very safe solution. The Hyd. shop could not come up with anything to match or mate to the hose dia on the stock hoses, he did have some AN fittings, but it was going to be one of those deals where you adapt to the adapter etc. I connected back to the fuel filter, removing the steel lines from there forward. Replaced by the Aeroquip, the flexibility of the hose was great for locating it out of the way & working around the external regulator. Nice & clean install.

Boosted

I'm considering having a local shop make me brand new hard fuel lines from the filter to the manifold. Or create a flared coupling at the stock location. Whatever the shop chooses.

For temporary measures, I'm going to use the Aeroquip barb fittings, but I dont trust that stuff over time, and it will not remain on my ride.

Hard lines for me I think. I'm expecting at least $4-500 with install for the lines. Definitely not a cost effective way to do it.

Stealth97 wrote:

I'm considering having a local shop make me brand new hard fuel lines from the filter to the manifold. Or create a flared coupling at the stock location.

You can't run hard lines all the way from fuel filter to the manifold. You will need some flexable length at the manifold to accomodate motor mount flex. Look over your stock fuel lines to see what I am refering to.

Pecos wrote:

Stealth97 wrote:

I'm considering having a local shop make me brand new hard fuel lines from the filter to the manifold. Or create a flared coupling at the stock location.

You can't run hard lines all the way from fuel filter to the manifold. You will need some flexable length at the manifold to accomodate motor mount flex. Look over your stock fuel lines to see what I am refering to.

Well duh I hadn't thought about that. Then I still have no clue what I am going to do about fuel lines. I guess I will go to a local custom race shop that builds 700hp stuff and installs them into cars and see what I can get out of them. They happen to be next door to a place called Orm Brothers (they sell any and every kind of hose, even fuel lines, hard and soft). Orm Brothers is like 15 minutes from me.

Stock lines are hard with 6" or so piece of flex line coupled into the setup, If your having custom lines built maybe you could do something like that?

Boosted

Take the manifold to the place that would make hard lines, have them create lines that end the same way the factory line does, with the same sort of fitting. This would work fine unless you were planning larger lines all the way to the fuel tank. In that case, do this anyway only with the larger line size, and have them create an adapter to go from the factory fuel system to the larger lined intake. This would allow the truck to run until the larger lines to the fuel tank is completed. Going this route (even if you have the lines done at the same time) would allow the shop to run the larger fuel lines along the factory path. Keep in mind that larger fuel lines will also require the tank pickup to be modified, and you will have to find a fuel pump that can handle larger lines yet fit in the factory pickup. The alternative would be to redesign the fuel pickup for an external fuel pump. If this has to happen, don't ever let the tank run dry or you'll have to figure out a way to prime the pump.

On the fuel pump issue
Some of us have the big,gangly in-tank pump with the housing and springs and crap.You know the ones i'm talking about,instead of replacing the fuel pump,you have to replace the whole assembly@350$$.NO!
I opened my tank to drop in a Walbro 255 pump,assuming since mine was a 97 that i didn't have the new 98 and up pump.Well i was wrong,and i had broken a line nipple getting it out so a new assembly was a must.Got one at salvage for 125$,already had the Walbro pump and was upset about not being able to use.Said to hell with it and broke open the defective housing i had.Inside was the regular stock fuel pump,you just have to get through this housing and clips and get it out.The wire's didn't match up so i broke out the chassis diagram and matched up the + and-,put back together and vroom vroom...
Fuel Pump Problem Solved
I have pics of the disassembly if anyone's interested.saves alot of money not having to replace housing on those type's.Near as i can figure in 97 the Yukons and Tahoes had them,cause my 97 ECSB didn't.I thought it was only 98 and up.

I did the same thing on the 98, had to do a little custom work on mounting the pump & a little re-arranging of the lines. But it works great & plenty of fuel pressure from the new larger pump.

Boosted

Yes, this is written for Range Rovers, but the use of a bare GM fuel pump for the do-it-yourselfer to replace the pump that is a component of the in-tank assembly is exactly the same as most 96 and up GMT400 trucks.

You can use an equivalent Walbro, Master, Airtex, or partsamerica pump in place of the referenced GM pump in the article if the connections match up.

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump4.html#rebuild