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Trouble with GM Click it and go LS3 packages gurus
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Post Trouble with GM Click it and go LS3 packages gurus 
I have the 490hp LS3 and 4L70E package from GM. Having an issue with hot start. Car runs fine and will start if not sitting very long. Like 10-15 minutes. Then it will not start till it’s cooled off some. It will turn over fine but will not start. Changed the temp sender that did not help. I’ve checked all the wiring no luck. No codes. Fuel pump comes on and up fine. What an I missing?

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Check fuel pressure, also when it want start is it firing?

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Not sure on the pressure my test gauge died Going to get one today if I can find one. Spark not sure started on it and have had to stop. Brother was taken to the hospital suddenly and he’s Not doing well. He was taken in right after I made the post so I may be a little slow at checking things. Here’s where it gets weird. I put a scanner on it. No codes. When checking it the car cooled down to the point it would start. So I block off the radiator and heated the car back up just past the point where it would not start before. Let it seat for about five minutes temp went up so I thought now I’ll check the spark. It started every time could not get it to not start. Weather and running to the hospital checking on big brother will stop me for a few days. Soon as I can get it to repeat the no start I’ll check both. I’m putting the spark tester in the car and when I get the fuel pressure tester it will also be putting it in the car. So if I’m out and it done it I can test them then. Sorry that this may take a few days.

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Okay drove the car to Walmart got a pressure tester came back out car would not start. Perfect checked spark out spark checked fuel pressure got 80 psi. So if I’m thinking right. The emc is telling the injectors not to fire right? So way? To early to check on big brother so I thought take the car and maybe it’ll do it it did. What am I over looking. Got a new temp sender on it. 2011 GTO sender.

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Sounds like your fuel pressure regulator is the problem. You're wanting to see 60PSI. 80PSI is pretty high, you may be locking your injectors until the pressure bleeds back off.

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Thanks I’ll look into that. Not sure there is one with this kit. I remember seeing the pump and filter but don’t remember the regulator. Thanks a lot.

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One more bump in the road. They have installed a speedway two in one fuel filter regulator witch is present at 58psi. So apparently it’s bad since it’s that is the test gauge is showing 80psi. So drop the speedway filter get a new one and a adjustable regulator. Set it around 60psi. Just one more thing these Ass holes have screwed up on.

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Gotta ask, who is "they"?

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I had a rod shop build this car my legs are not what they used to be. I knew if I was going to get it done I’d better let someone else do the car. This was was built for my wife because she has never given me much griff on my cars. We found it in Texas drove by it she said I want that car. So I did. Bad move on my part was letting them do the car. I made an agreement with one guy he was running the shop. Him and the owner got into it and he left. I started to pull the car then. But the guy asked me not to he was afraid of being sued. Should have listened to my gut. The pluming and electrical have been a nightmare. Needless to say we did not part on good terms. Apparently all they ever built or show cars not something someone’s gonna drive. This car is a 50 Studabaker Commaander. LS3 with an Art Morison frame. I’ve had it home about three months and am just now getting it save to drive. Brake lines leaking gas line leaking coming off rollover valve installed wrong. I will never take a car and let someone else build it. I must have had 20 people tell me they where the best. If there the best I sure would hate to see the others. Don’t get me wrong it a super looking car and drives like a dream but all the little stuff. Just stuff anyone that works on cars knows. Like this issue here. This my first LS swap into a car that was not an LS car from the start. So I’m having to learn and fix at the same time.
So THEY are a rod shop out of Evansville IN.

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Been there, done that. Had a shop in Fort Smith build two engines, one for me and one for my dad. Supposed to be known nationwide. They built an LS engine for me and just stuck any old bolt in, wound up blowing oil all over before dropping a valve. I had that truck to several shops hoping to buy a fix, and yes, I should have pulled that engine myself and done it right but I wasn't in a position to do it at the time. They also built a Gen 1 400 for my dad that they dropped on the crank snout unloading from the truck. They claimed they magnafluxed the crank and found no problems, but after a couple thousand miles the crank snout snapped off. Luckily, all of the damage on that one was ahead of the bearings, so the block itself wasn't hurt. What sucked on that one was, I borrowed that truck when my truck's engine went, and that was when that engine failed so I was in a rent house with two blown engines in the driveway. Rather than work on my new house, I had to cram two engines in a very short time. I bought a crate 5.3L, my dad brought up a spare engine he had lying around. Anyway, that shop was Hunt Engine Rebuilders in Ft Smith AR. I figure they bought a lifetime of free advertising from me on this.

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Got a regulator and filter on the way. Should be here tomorrow late. I’ve been on the south end of a buffer all day. I do like Black but it sure is a lot of work. Not really I buffet it once a year. I’ve got this black figured out.
I do believe you hit the nail on the head. After it failed to start at Walmart and I put the tester on it it started right up. So bleeding the pressure off let the injector free up so it could start. I got 460 miles on the car now. Few more miles and I’ll dump the oil and give it a good look and put in fresh and she should be good to go. I want to hit three shows with the car this year. GoodGuys in Nashville, Studabaker National’s in Chattanooga TN and NSRA in Louisville KY.

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