Where to get transmission solenoid o-rings? - SOLVED
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Where to get transmission solenoid o-rings? - SOLVED
Working on yet another 4L60E, specifically the valve body. All solenoids are in good shape, but I cannot bring myself to re-use the existing o-rings. GM sells the shift solenoid o-rings, which are the same as that used on the TCC lockup solenoid. So, no problem there. But, GM does not sell replacement o-rings for the PWM solenoid and 3-2 downshift solenoid. I've not been able to find any through Sonnax or anywhere else. The rebuild kits I've seen do include new o-rings for these solenoids, but I cannot seem to get just the o-rings, as I don't need an entire rebuild kit. Cannot believe they aren't readily available. Any ideas?
Last edited by JR96CK on Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Just measured them and the PWM and 3-2 solenoids use the same o-rings, one small and one large per solenoid. They are different from the shift solenoid o-rings, however. GM # 10471813 is in fact the correct o-ring for the A & B shift solenoids and also the TCC solenoid on the pump.
Checked at a local trans. shop today and they had no ideas about where to source any o-rings for the 3-2 and PWM. Everyone just replaces the whole solenoid or puts the old ones back in undisturbed.
But of course I have to be picky.

Checked at a local trans. shop today and they had no ideas about where to source any o-rings for the 3-2 and PWM. Everyone just replaces the whole solenoid or puts the old ones back in undisturbed.
But of course I have to be picky.


Last edited by JR96CK on Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Handy web site:
http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/o ... 0Fluid#mat
Looks like Buna-N (Nitrile) might be the winner here.
EDIT: Maybe not... looking further, it seems Sonnax makes regular use of Viton (a.k.a. Fluorocarbon elastomer, FKM, Fluorel) in their seals and o-rings. I assumed it was tailored for fuel use specifically. Seems Viton is a more robust material than the Buna-N.
EDIT AGAIN: Called Sonnax and they confirmed that Viton is the material of choice here. Viton (FKM) it is then....
http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/o ... 0Fluid#mat
Looks like Buna-N (Nitrile) might be the winner here.
EDIT: Maybe not... looking further, it seems Sonnax makes regular use of Viton (a.k.a. Fluorocarbon elastomer, FKM, Fluorel) in their seals and o-rings. I assumed it was tailored for fuel use specifically. Seems Viton is a more robust material than the Buna-N.
EDIT AGAIN: Called Sonnax and they confirmed that Viton is the material of choice here. Viton (FKM) it is then....
Last edited by JR96CK on Tue Feb 04, 2014 4:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Solved
Managed to get this figured out and now have the proper o-rings. Got them from this place:
http://www.oringwarehouse.com/
The PWM solenoid and 3-2 solenoid both use the same size o-rings, so this covers both of them.
Small o-ring: AS568B Number -13 (1.78 mm x 10.82 mm, .070" x .426", 1/16" x 7/16")
Large o-ring: AS568B Number -15 (1.78 mm x 14.00 mm, .070" x .551", 1/16" x 9/16")
Material: Viton (FKM) - Black, 75 durometer
Now you can put on fresh o-rings without having to buy the solenoid, if desired.
http://www.oringwarehouse.com/
The PWM solenoid and 3-2 solenoid both use the same size o-rings, so this covers both of them.
Small o-ring: AS568B Number -13 (1.78 mm x 10.82 mm, .070" x .426", 1/16" x 7/16")
Large o-ring: AS568B Number -15 (1.78 mm x 14.00 mm, .070" x .551", 1/16" x 9/16")
Material: Viton (FKM) - Black, 75 durometer
Now you can put on fresh o-rings without having to buy the solenoid, if desired.
Just wanted to update this thread with the summation of all the info I've found. Even though GM sells replacement o-rings for the TCC solenoid snout which inserts into the bottom of the pump (these same o-rings are also the correct replacements for the shift solenoid o-rings), I wanted to source all the o-rings myself. So, I measured everything, ordered some up, and verified it's all correct. I have two vehicles driving around right now making use of these replacement o-rings, so they are holding up perfectly.
4L60E Verified Correct Replacement Solenoid O-Ring Sizes:
TCC Solenoid Snout:
AS568B Number -14 (1.78 mm CS x 12.42 mm ID, .070" CS x .489" ID, 1/16" CS x 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD)
Shift Solenoid:
AS568B Number -14 (1.78 mm CS x 12.42 mm ID, .070" CS x .489" ID, 1/16" CS x 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD)
PWM Solenoid:
AS568B Number -13 (1.78 mm CS x 10.82 mm ID, .070" CS x .426" ID, 1/16" CS x 7/16" ID x 9/16" OD)
AS568B Number -15 (1.78 mm CS x 14.00 mm ID, .070" CS x .551" ID, 1/16" CS x 9/16" ID x 11/16" OD)
3-2 Control Solenoid:
AS568B Number -13 (1.78 mm CS x 10.82 mm ID, .070" CS x .426" ID, 1/16" CS x 7/16" ID x 9/16" OD)
AS568B Number -15 (1.78 mm CS x 14.00 mm ID, .070" CS x .551" ID, 1/16" CS x 9/16" ID x 11/16" OD)
Sonnax O-Ringed Boost Valve Sleeve:
M1.5mm x 17mm (17.00mm ID x 1.50mm CS)
*** Material for all o-rings is black "Viton" (FKM - Fluorocarbon Elastomer); Durometer = 75 ***
Preferred vendor: The O-Ring Store LLC (http://www.theoringstore.com)
4L60E Verified Correct Replacement Solenoid O-Ring Sizes:
TCC Solenoid Snout:
AS568B Number -14 (1.78 mm CS x 12.42 mm ID, .070" CS x .489" ID, 1/16" CS x 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD)
Shift Solenoid:
AS568B Number -14 (1.78 mm CS x 12.42 mm ID, .070" CS x .489" ID, 1/16" CS x 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD)
PWM Solenoid:
AS568B Number -13 (1.78 mm CS x 10.82 mm ID, .070" CS x .426" ID, 1/16" CS x 7/16" ID x 9/16" OD)
AS568B Number -15 (1.78 mm CS x 14.00 mm ID, .070" CS x .551" ID, 1/16" CS x 9/16" ID x 11/16" OD)
3-2 Control Solenoid:
AS568B Number -13 (1.78 mm CS x 10.82 mm ID, .070" CS x .426" ID, 1/16" CS x 7/16" ID x 9/16" OD)
AS568B Number -15 (1.78 mm CS x 14.00 mm ID, .070" CS x .551" ID, 1/16" CS x 9/16" ID x 11/16" OD)
Sonnax O-Ringed Boost Valve Sleeve:
M1.5mm x 17mm (17.00mm ID x 1.50mm CS)
*** Material for all o-rings is black "Viton" (FKM - Fluorocarbon Elastomer); Durometer = 75 ***
Preferred vendor: The O-Ring Store LLC (http://www.theoringstore.com)
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Good stuff! Many thanks!
Being in similar boat, I was searching the web and where did I find the answer - right here of course.
Would you say this The O-Ring Store LLC (http://www.theoringstore.com) will sell smaller quantities. Hopefully with expedited shipping.
I'm about to install a reman valve body. Trying to set the harness aside for the valve body to clear the harness, I needed to remove the TCC solenoid and recognized that it's O-Ring was slightly torn. So I would need to replace that one before install.
I may be a good idea for me to buy and replace the reman's PWM Solenoid O-Rings too, since I need to remove that solenoid in order to install the TCC solenoid and once I removed it I don't want to just put it back with the "old" ones.
Another question. How about me NOT replacing the Valve Body Separator Plate? I'm working inside our garage with the transmission overhead and without the vehicle being lifted, so I'm trying to go easy if possible.
Being in similar boat, I was searching the web and where did I find the answer - right here of course.

Would you say this The O-Ring Store LLC (http://www.theoringstore.com) will sell smaller quantities. Hopefully with expedited shipping.
I'm about to install a reman valve body. Trying to set the harness aside for the valve body to clear the harness, I needed to remove the TCC solenoid and recognized that it's O-Ring was slightly torn. So I would need to replace that one before install.
I may be a good idea for me to buy and replace the reman's PWM Solenoid O-Rings too, since I need to remove that solenoid in order to install the TCC solenoid and once I removed it I don't want to just put it back with the "old" ones.
Another question. How about me NOT replacing the Valve Body Separator Plate? I'm working inside our garage with the transmission overhead and without the vehicle being lifted, so I'm trying to go easy if possible.
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Agreed. I had one at 175K that was heavily worn. The pressures had been increased so the check balls moved more forcefully into position - so I'm thinking that lead to the increased wear along with the mileage.Bushwacker wrote:My experience with the separator plate is you need to inspect it if you have many miles because I have seen the balls wear through