Dead truck

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Speeder
Posts: 10772
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 1999 9:12 pm
Location: 2015 Tahoe 2WD 5.3L 6L80E, 2008 Colorado work beater, 2003 Dodge Dakota pro-touring project

Dead truck

Post by Speeder »

Title says it all. Truck is dead. When you try to start it, as soon as the key hits the start position it dies like you cut the battery cable. If you disconnect the battery and reconnect it, nothing. If you wait a few days then reconnect the battery, everything on the truck works. Hit the starter, and it's like you cut the battery cable. No click, chunk or anything, it just dies.

So far I've replaced the ignition switch and the multifunction switch. I think this is related to the battery drain I've been dealing with for the last year. After the switch replacement, I have the same symptoms only now I now get a chunk from the starter. I'm pretty sure now that I actually have two problems, one is the ignition switch was going out (symptoms up to now fit a bad ignition switch) but now it looks like the starter is bad.

My question here is, is it possible that a failing ignition switch would send low current to the starter solenoid, causing the solenoid to develop a short? I'm going to try and get the starter dealt with this week.

97k15004wd
Posts: 1167
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:32 pm
Location: Waikikamukau

Post by 97k15004wd »

Sounds like the solenoid. I don't think a faulty switch would cause the solenoid to go bad, but I've found over the years that all sorts of weird things can happen when it comes to a car. Is it possible the engine is locked up somehow causing the starter to not turn over the engine? Either interference of some sort (trans or engine) or hydrostatic lock?

Speeder
Posts: 10772
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 1999 9:12 pm
Location: 2015 Tahoe 2WD 5.3L 6L80E, 2008 Colorado work beater, 2003 Dodge Dakota pro-touring project

Post by Speeder »

Nah, the engine is still a practically new GM factory crate, and I'd been driving it that day with no sign of problems. However, it had been getting to be hard to start, taking 2-3 attempts to get it to start. Going to pick up a starter today and see if I feel like laying on 3 inch gravel tomorrow to start it. Can't wait until I can get a garage up, here in about 2 more months. I just wish I had Chevy97's building skills, I'm having to hire it out. Anything I attempt to build would be condemned at the ribbon cutting ceremony.

Speeder
Posts: 10772
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 1999 9:12 pm
Location: 2015 Tahoe 2WD 5.3L 6L80E, 2008 Colorado work beater, 2003 Dodge Dakota pro-touring project

Post by Speeder »

Starter was a no-go. Suspecting a dead cell in the battery now, which will mean the alternator is definitely bad. Battery was reading 12 and a bit, put it on the charger for a few hours. Started raining HARD before I could give it a shot. Going to try it in the morning. No garage sucks.

97k15004wd
Posts: 1167
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:32 pm
Location: Waikikamukau

Post by 97k15004wd »

Yeah, I have a temporary "garage" that is one of those six post deals with a tarp to cover it. Better than nothing, but still gets hot, bugs get in, and overall not as nice as a shop for sure.

But I did use it for years as it didn't require a building permit, etc.....

Speeder
Posts: 10772
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 1999 9:12 pm
Location: 2015 Tahoe 2WD 5.3L 6L80E, 2008 Colorado work beater, 2003 Dodge Dakota pro-touring project

Post by Speeder »

OK, charged battery, still get the same dead truck on cranking but this time I got a couple of clicks out of the starter. Battery dropped 0.4V after the attempt. Further attempts don't get the click anymore.

Before the attempt I tried the power windows, worked perfectly. There's new motors on them so they were lightning quick. Everything works on the truck until the starter is turned.

After the attempt, I was hearing a very fast, faint clicking sound under the dash. I wasn't able to isolate anything as to the source, but it shouldn't be the ignition switch or the multi-function switch since they've been replaced.

My work car needs a new battery because it's old and the guy who put it back together after it was hit in the front didn't put a battery tray back in it, so I'm thinking that I will get a battery for it that also has top posts. I'll try it in the truck and if it starts, I'll get a new battery and alternator for it. I swear this is driving me up a wall. If anyone has any other suggestions I'll welcome them.

Speeder
Posts: 10772
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 1999 9:12 pm
Location: 2015 Tahoe 2WD 5.3L 6L80E, 2008 Colorado work beater, 2003 Dodge Dakota pro-touring project

Post by Speeder »

97k15004wd wrote:Yeah, I have a temporary "garage" that is one of those six post deals with a tarp to cover it. Better than nothing, but still gets hot, bugs get in, and overall not as nice as a shop for sure.

But I did use it for years as it didn't require a building permit, etc.....
With the winds I have in Oklahoma, I'd find one of these on the far side of the lake within a week. Heh heh... a few days ago we had winds so hard that it was raining sideways. Literally sideways.

Speeder
Posts: 10772
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 1999 9:12 pm
Location: 2015 Tahoe 2WD 5.3L 6L80E, 2008 Colorado work beater, 2003 Dodge Dakota pro-touring project

Post by Speeder »

Problem solved. My 1000 amp battery, with 13.6V showing across the terminals, can't produce enough amperage to start the truck. My crap POS worn out 600 amp battery in my Corolla would have cranked it first go if it weren't for the truck sitting for a month. It cranked on the second go.

I've suspected the alternator isn't doing its job and now I have confirmation. It's not charging properly, and damaged the battery internally. Going to order a new high output alternator, something that can produce at least 100 amps at idle when heat soaked, and will install another new battery when the alternator comes in.

97k15004wd
Posts: 1167
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:32 pm
Location: Waikikamukau

Post by 97k15004wd »

Glad to hear you solved it!

Chevy 97
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Location: 97 ECSB K1500 6.3L 4L80E 14 bolt SF Hydro Boost, Headman Ellite Headers, 140 amp alt.

Post by Chevy 97 »

I had my alternator go full field on me and cook the battery. That really stinks too. Then I had that alternator come apart. So with in two years I put two alternators on my truck. I have a 140 amp alternator.

Speeder
Posts: 10772
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 1999 9:12 pm
Location: 2015 Tahoe 2WD 5.3L 6L80E, 2008 Colorado work beater, 2003 Dodge Dakota pro-touring project

Post by Speeder »

Thought I solved it. There is apparently still an intermittent short in it. Sigh. Guess there's nothing for it but the hard slog through the wiring. I'm just glad it's not a vehicle I need anymore.

1999 Tahoe 4x4
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Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:00 pm
Location: Torrance, CA

Post by 1999 Tahoe 4x4 »

Check your alternator first.

https://youtu.be/riYZssdSmXY
Check @6.00 min.

I believe he talks somewhere in this video that if the bridge rectifier goes bad it can drain the battery. Maybe it was in another video, but I sure I saw it mentioned.

98Blackss
Posts: 861
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 12:14 pm
Location: Native TEXAN living in Colorado; 1998 K1500 RCSB stepside Escalade and GMT800 AWD conversion

Post by 98Blackss »

Speeder, Check the voltage drop on your negative battery cable. While yours is the GMT800 platform I have had to replace every single negative battery cable on all the GMT900' I have dealt with. I have 5 in my fleet at work and two at home. All the connections were tight and the cables looked good on the outside but they were rotting from the inside out. I am in Denver, Colorado so not exactly a corrosive environment. Seems like GM cant make battery cables to save their life!

Speeder
Posts: 10772
Joined: Fri Apr 30, 1999 9:12 pm
Location: 2015 Tahoe 2WD 5.3L 6L80E, 2008 Colorado work beater, 2003 Dodge Dakota pro-touring project

Post by Speeder »

98Blackss wrote:Speeder, Check the voltage drop on your negative battery cable. While yours is the GMT800 platform I have had to replace every single negative battery cable on all the GMT900' I have dealt with. I have 5 in my fleet at work and two at home. All the connections were tight and the cables looked good on the outside but they were rotting from the inside out. I am in Denver, Colorado so not exactly a corrosive environment. Seems like GM cant make battery cables to save their life!
Thanks, but the cables are new 0ga welding cable. Was 0ga welding cable before as well, replaced on one of my engine swaps. The strap cables are also new on one of the engine swaps and are almost an inch across. All the primary power cabling has been replaced with 0ga or 2ga welding cable.

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