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JAMES B
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That's the problem with the larger diameters. I never have to go more than a 3 inch single or 2.5 inch duals (and I now always split 3 inch singles into 2.25 duals after the cat), and the Walkers work pretty well in conjunction with glasspack resonators for making a quiet system. The larger the diameter though, the louder it gets. It complicates the system and adds weight, but splitting each 3 inch on the dual system into a pair of 2.25 pipes, then muffling each would likely make it super quiet.

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Shock muffler as a 3.5" tailpipe and appears to be dual out into a single



It's actually just an empty resonance chamber. I'd like to try and build an external chamber that T into the tailpipe

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Splitting each 3 into 2, then putting a separate muffler would likely be quietest, but a single 3 in/dual 2.25 out in a large case muffler stuffed with baffle material would probably work about as well. Only problem then would be running four pipes over the axle. Due to the shock setup it would take a helluva pipe bender to get them in there.

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Full exhaust comparison: 2.5" vs 3.0" vs open headers

2 x 3.0" + muffler only weighs 10 lbs more than the 2 x 2.5", at 82Lbs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PVXvHkr-Vs

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Interesting:
https://youtu.be/RWTARjxiqlo

Scavenger collector muffler:

http://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/exhaust/tech-flowmasters-mufflers-meet-supercharged-pro-mods/

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James B. wrote:

Maybe I'm getting old, I've reached finally the same conclusion about headers PSWired did in his early 20's - headers just all suck. They all eventually crack and leak. Every pair I've had has done so and I just don't want to have to keep dealing with that. I intend to run the stock cast steel manifolds. Also different, this time it will have a single muffler with 3.5 or 4" pipe. The dual multi-muffler configurations of the past have been too expensive, too complicated, and too heavy.


Performance cast iron?

https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/snh-qp2000-sec/overview/make/chevrolet

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Sanderson does not have a good reputation in the V8 S10 world. I'd suggest reading up about them at v8s10.org before buying.

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James B. wrote:
I've reached finally the same conclusion about headers PSWired did in his early 20's - headers just all suck. They all eventually crack and leak. Every pair I've had has done so and I just don't want to have to keep dealing with that.


Some materials need to be heat treated after welding. I wonder if header manufacturers bother with that. Do they even check their welds for cracks or porosity?

Would attaching the collector to the transmission, to support the header help with avoiding cracks?

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/headers-dyno-test/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1bXPNy1Yn4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1fLY0RwrGk

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Penetrant inspection.



http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?22870-sch-10-304-turbo-manifolds-keep-cracking

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Post Power Test: Cast Manifolds vs. Headers - Engine Masters Ep. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7_lSU3D0jw

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IIRC Lextech did up a nice set of turbo headers for his twin turbo L30 305. IIRC he's using 2 diesel turbos??


The Callaway Twin Turbo Corvettes were available from 1987-91 in power ratings from
1986
1987 345 HP/465 Ft. Lb of Torque 178mph top speed
1988 382 HP/586 Ft.Lbs of Torque B2K optioned on only 7 of the 35th Anniversary cars
1989 same as 1988
1990 403 HP/575 Ft.Lbs of Torque
1991403 HP/575 Ft.Lbs of Torque 1992mph top speed

Here is a Callaway 1987 B2k L/H exhaust manifold Mild steel $1170.00
[img]http://shop.callawaycars.com/Manifold-Exh-M-S-1987-CTTC-LH-208425010.htm[/img]

Here is an 88-91 Callaway B2K L/H exhaust manifold Mild steel $1170.00
[img]http://shop.callawaycars.com/Manifold-Exh-M-S-1988-1991-CTTC-LH-208425030.htm[/img]

1987 B2K L/H but in stainless steel for $1620.00
[img]http://shop.callawaycars.com/Manifold-Exh-S-S-1987-CTTC-LH-208425000.htm[/img]

1988-91 B2K L/H stainless steel $1440.00

[img]http://shop.callawaycars.com/Manifold-Exh-S-S-1988-1991-CTTC-LH-208425020.htm[/img]

You must prove that you are a Callaway B2K TT owner to buy these parts.

IIRC these B2K turbo manifolds holds 100% of the turbocharger weight.

The B2K twin turbo cars would run 12.8's in the quarter mile, giving the Chevrolet/Lotus/Mercruiser ZR-1 with its 375hp@6000rpm370lb/ft torque@ LT5 from 1990-1992, and 405hp@5800rpm/385lb/ft torque@4800rpm from 1993-1995. Couple the fact that the Callaway B2K was rivaling GMs performance flagship, the ZR-1, along with the fact that the last year a Corvette would use the GEN 1 engine would be 1991. It was to be replaced by the 300hp@5000rpm/335lb/ft torque@4000rpm GEN II SBC along with its 10.4:1 compression ratio, and reverse fow cooling(coolant from rad cools the block first then cools the block) caused GM to cancel the B2K program

Here is a diagram of a B2K Callaway Vette


peace
Hog

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Ahem.... April 1st, Whipple dyno day..... Just sayin'



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CrazyHoe wrote:
Ahem.... April 1st, Whipple dyno day..... Just sayin'



Awful lot of Mustangs around here...

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Hey what's up with dat?
Mustangs need power much eh?

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Just round up those horses. They could get run over on the highways. Lol...

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I sure as hell wouldn't want to be a pedestrian anywhere near that place when those things are leaving.

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So James.......
Where are you on the big CI blower install, 0411 ecm, coil per plug BBC monster?
I was hoping it's about time you fall back in love with the spare parts you have at home and show us how beautiful they look in use!



Last edited by stroker97k1500 on Mon Mar 27, 2017 3:55 am; edited 1 time in total
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Oh man, I have SO MANY parts around I'm nearly smothered! Let's see... three 10.5" axles, four Gen-VI big blocks (three 454 and one 502), two 4L80-E and one 4L80-EHD, a bunch of intakes and accessories, a few wiring harnesses, and one polished aluminum 3.3L Whipple.
Nothing of any reportable value has happened yet, BUT I just just drop off the Brodix heads this past Friday for new guides and valve job. I've already got all the gasketry and sensors.
In the next month or two I should be due for a smog check. The stock L31 will stay in until that.
I haven't decided yet if I'm going to drop in the stock L29 that I know is flawless first just to get rolling. I don't have any of the BBC exhaust left from the green Tahoe so this one will be starting over from scratch. There will be some changes - I don't want headers on this one, and it will probably be a single 4" exist in the stock location unless I like the way it looks without the rear quarter ground effects. Have not tried removing them yet but if that works I'll do at least dual 3" like the green Tahoe and the Suburban, or dual 3.5.
The heads should be done in about three weeks. In the mean time I need to choose a Gen-VII cam for the 502. Once I have the heads back I'll rebuild the bottom end and assembly the rest of it. ZZ502s come with aluminum bearings that really can't handle the pressure they'll be getting. I already have a set of bi-metal full-groove bearings for it.
I'll post some pics and updates.

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