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Valve Spring Suggestions
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Post Valve Spring Suggestions 
What springs do you guys suggest to get .510 lift ?

Comp 26915 or 26918 + the 787-16 retainers
Those are just drop in replacements right ? No machining required right ?

Comp Suggest this kit for my application K08-305-8 but with the springs in this kit I would need machining and I don't wanna pull the heads unless needed

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k08-305-8

What do you guys think?

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If you're going to ditch the spings, might as well get the small kit

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-sk08-305-8

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Post Re: Valve Spring Suggestions 
Read this:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Vortec_L31_cylinder_head#Valve_springs.2C_retainers_and_locks




97VortecChevy wrote:
What springs do you guys suggest to get .510 lift ?

Comp 26915 or 26918 + the 787-16 retainers
Those are just drop in replacements right ? No machining required right ?

Comp Suggest this kit for my application K08-305-8 but with the springs in this kit I would need machining and I don't wanna pull the heads unless needed

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k08-305-8

What do you guys think?


And 648 keepers.

I'll try to measure the distance from the bottom of the retainer to the valve tip.

Substract that value from your valve tips to the seals and you'll have your max valve lift + .050

Spring should not be an issue but this needs to be verified.

Quote:
Chevrolet recommends using the Crane Cam p/n 10309-1 drop-in valve spring/retainer kit which is good for 0.550” lift (this allows about 0.025" between the retainer and seal) with no machining. The spring rate for this spring is 409 lb/in and has a 0.870" ID.
When retaining the factory boss and seals, be sure the valve seals are driven on all the way. You need to check that they are before installing this kit. Use a 3/8” drive 1/2” socket and a soft mallet to gently drive the seals fully home.


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http://www.hotrod.com/articles/vortec-valve-spring-upgrade/

They list 774 retainers but thats for the ls3 not the Vortec

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CrazyHoe wrote:
If you're going to ditch the spings, might as well get the small kit

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-sk08-305-8



Yea that's the one I am going to get since I'm not doing the springs

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Post Re: Valve Spring Suggestions 
CrazyHoe wrote:
Read this:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Vortec_L31_cylinder_head#Valve_springs.2C_retainers_and_locks




97VortecChevy wrote:
What springs do you guys suggest to get .510 lift ?

Comp 26915 or 26918 + the 787-16 retainers
Those are just drop in replacements right ? No machining required right ?

Comp Suggest this kit for my application K08-305-8 but with the springs in this kit I would need machining and I don't wanna pull the heads unless needed

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k08-305-8

What do you guys think?


And 648 keepers.

I'll try to measure the distance from the bottom of the retainer to the valve tip.

Substract that value from your valve tips to the seals and you'll have your max valve lift + .050

Spring should not be an issue but this needs to be verified.

Quote:
Chevrolet recommends using the Crane Cam p/n 10309-1 drop-in valve spring/retainer kit which is good for 0.550” lift (this allows about 0.025" between the retainer and seal) with no machining. The spring rate for this spring is 409 lb/in and has a 0.870" ID.
When retaining the factory boss and seals, be sure the valve seals are driven on all the way. You need to check that they are before installing this kit. Use a 3/8” drive 1/2” socket and a soft mallet to gently drive the seals fully home.





I see you went with the magnum 1.52 rollers, How did they preform? Was it worth it over stock ?

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Post Re: Valve Spring Suggestions 
97VortecChevy wrote:


I see you went with the magnum 1.52 rollers, How did they preform? Was it worth it over stock ?


Not really. The ball cup showed signs of overheating. And one of them jumped off the valve tip, damaging the locating disk at the roller and half of the valve tip.
Continued opening the valve by pressing on the side of the retainer. Was lucky it didn't drop the valve.
Had the replace the valve, that was on E-tech200s with original spings and retainers.

Now I will be using Comp gold narrow body with beehives.

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Ok so, it's actually the locks that sticks the lowest from under the retainers.

From the tip of the valve to the bottom of the locks it's
0.524 on the exhaust and
0.499 on the intake.

So you'll need
1.084 tip to seal on the exhaust and
1.059 on the intake

(.524 + .510 + .050) = 1.084

Do not reuse the oem locks, they will give you less clearance.

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CrazyHoe wrote:
Ok so, it's actually the locks that sticks the lowest from under the retainers.

From the tip of the valve to the bottom of the locks it's
0.524 on the exhaust and
0.499 on the intake.

So you'll need
1.084 tip to seal on the exhaust and
1.059 on the intake

(.524 + .510 + .050) = 1.084

Do not reuse the oem locks, they will give you less clearance.


Yea im ordering the springs, retainers and the locks pretty soon

Thank ya

Also you had an awesome write up when you did yours

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Hello
going to build me L31 engine where I goning to use E-tech200 ,what springs and rocker arm is recommended for these heads, is there anyone who has tried the new conical spring from COMP Cams.

Br Ponrov

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First why the E-tec200?

They are too big for a 350. But if that's your choice, the spings that comes with the 200 are fine.

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it's a while since I bought them, it was the only Aluminium heads I found that time who had Vortec bolt pattern ,today i woud bye AFR 0912 .
Just wonder about the springs ,with conical springs it is not necessary with the oscillate damper innside the valve spring , that increases friction. it's always intresting to chech if there is someone who has experience with new products.
Engine size it's 383 with whipple /Lysholm 2300 ax .

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CrazyHoe wrote:
Ok so, it's actually the locks that sticks the lowest from under the retainers.

From the tip of the valve to the bottom of the locks it's
0.524 on the exhaust and
0.499 on the intake.

So you'll need
1.084 tip to seal on the exhaust and
1.059 on the intake

(.524 + .510 + .050) = 1.084

Do not reuse the oem locks, they will give you less clearance.




Would it be a good idea to do the seals while I'm in there? Summit has a felpro set for like 18 bucks, i was thinking might as well huh ?

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Sure, if they fit as oem

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CrazyHoe wrote:
Sure, if they fit as oem




Hey bud, Do you think I could use my old push rods? If not which ones should i go with ?


According to Advanced Auto standard length is " 7.1870" O.A.L.; Standard Size; 16 Req. " Sealed Power PUSHROD SEALD

The ones from comp for my kit are "Overall Length (In): 7.195 Inch" Part # 7808-16

Nothing wrong with the old ones just some mileage on them, I am using stock rockers

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Anytime head's or cam is changed you should check the geometry and get the correct length push rod,
Yes your old push rods will probably work but they probably want be in the center of the steam then you run a risk of unkeying the retainer

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Bushwacker wrote:
Anytime head's or cam is changed you should check the geometry and get the correct length push rod,
Yes your old push rods will probably work but they probably want be in the center of the steam then you run a risk of unkeying the retainer


+ 1

You might want to pin the rocker stud for added insurance.

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