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Air ride seat
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The 2013 RAM comes with adjustable air suspension.

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So I'm sitting in a shop getting a broken hanger on my exhaust fixed, and I looked at their ad rack. They had an ad for a Timbren suspension assist. Anyone ever hear of them? I'm thinking that a weaker torsion bar along with some of these jobbies might make for a more comfortable ride. Opinions?

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I think you'd be happier with 4link and air bags.

On a different note, did you ever fix that oil leak?

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Oil LEAK, yes. Still have a little blowby.

I'm interested in the Timbren stuff more as a "get'er done in a day" thing. If this will smooth my suspension enough I can unload the Lincoln, both getting extra cash while dropping my insurance rates. Not to mention, I don't like that thing. It'll be a while before I can look at anything like a suspension swap.

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Speeder wrote:
Oil LEAK, yes. Still have a little blowby.


Oil LEAK
Saw PowerBlock last week-end and didn't know the t-chain cover had to be manually aligned at the oil pan gasket sealing surface with the damper installed.
And that the oil pan had to be also alined, at tranny mating surface. Odd choice of assembly method by GM.

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Weaker/no sway bar, softer shocks, softer bump stop, lower tire pressure, seat foam. water bag in the bed.
http://www.autoanything.com/hitch-bed-accessories/65A2868A0A0.aspx

Remove some leafs, keep overload one, air helper, torque bar.


It would be interesting if air bags could be installed at the torsion keys.

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CrazyHoe wrote:
Weaker/no sway bar, softer shocks, softer bump stop, lower tire pressure, seat foam. water bag in the bed.
http://www.autoanything.com/hitch-bed-accessories/65A2868A0A0.aspx

Remove some leafs, keep overload one, air helper, torque bar.


It would be interesting if air bags could be installed at the torsion keys.


Thought about that, but I don't think it would work. The torsion bars work by locking either side of the torsion bar in place, and the spring action works by the twisting action inside the bar. There just wouldn't be any real way for an airbag to work there since the airbag requires room for the bag to work. A poly insert in the torsion key, on the other hand, might be a possibility. It wouldn't be variable, but it might give it a bit more smooth a ride.

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We had some of those timbrens on my bosses lowered dually GMT800. We had to pull the contact overloads off so we put the timbrens in. You couldnt even feel them when they would touch but they needed a better mounting system cause onee fell out. They seemed to work good tho.

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CrazyHoe wrote:
Speeder wrote:
Oil LEAK, yes. Still have a little blowby.


Oil LEAK
Saw PowerBlock last week-end and didn't know the t-chain cover had to be manually aligned at the oil pan gasket sealing surface with the damper installed.
And that the oil pan had to be also alined, at tranny mating surface. Odd choice of assembly method by GM.


Can you expand on that a bit?
Are you talking about the LS motors? About to put one together and don't want any oil leaks.

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Sure. Yep, it was an LS engine. The oil leak came from the builder using whatever bolt he happened to grab instead of putting the correct bolts in the correct places, combined with piss-poor engine building practices. Since you are doing the work yourself, I don't think you will have a problem. I'd just stay away from Hunt Engines in Fort Smith for any of the machine work you need. He is the one that built my 4.8, and even though he claimed to be the guy GM sent their LS engines to for machine work his actual work does not reflect that sort of knowledge. I had to take the engine back to him to fix some of it, and reamed him out about it to boot. It still has a bit of blowby but it's not nearly as bad as it was so I called it good enough for now. It uses about two quarts between oil changes.

After I get my current pending crap done, I'll reevaluate what I want to do.

On what Ben was talking about, ensure the back of the oil pan is perfectly flush with the back of the engine block when you bolt it on, and follow the torque pattern. The new oil pans are part of the structural strength of the block. Also, make sure the oil drainbacks from the heads are nice and clear. Might even enlarge them a bit and polish them, although I don't know how far you can enlarge them before running into problems. Finally, the LS engines don't use adjustable rockers, you'll need to make sure the pushrods are the correct length. This is one of the few things I don't like about the LS engines. I'm hoping someone comes up with a way to convert from fixed rockers to adjustable rockers before I do another engine.

One last thought: I painted my engine black the first time I did it, and the oil leaks were impossible to track down. Paint the engine some color other than black. The engine was painted Chevy orange the second time.

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Speeder is like a magnet for shitty workmanship when he farms out labor.

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saturnstyl wrote:
Speeder is like a magnet for shitty workmanship when he farms out labor.


Boy you ain't kidding there. No matter how good someone is for everyone else, even if they've never done a bad job in their life, if they are going to screw up a job it'll be mine they screw up.

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Might be time for a new direction...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpjE2pf9bKM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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http://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/the-best-vehicles-for-drivers-with-back-pain.html

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Got Bose?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cffHXhbIfaU

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