I've got a set on the MAX.. I replaced them under warranty in Feb... Bought them in April? '11. They were cracked all 4. (front only)
I'm pretty sure I've over heated them again to the point where I had brake fade.

The only reason I can think that the front's don't hold up well is I have SSBC calipers up front stocks out back.

I also want EBC yellows but I think the price is retarded - The irony here? OEM ceramics apparently are the best for the truck and they cost nearly as much as yellows.

fairly sure these rotors are glazed too.. thinking about inspecting pads in the next few days replace if need and just cookie the rotors to remove glaze....


If you guys have suggestions that's appreciated, I just want brakes that don't fade, last a good while ( OEMS still looks 70% at 130k. ) and STOP.

I still cant stop!!

I've been using them for years, no problems. I assume that since you have a Duramax that you tow a lot? What kind of trailer, and does it have its own brakes? If not, I would check to see if the rear brakes are adjusted correctly and in use. If your fronts keep wearing out and glazing over but the rears are new looking, then the rear brakes aren't in the game and you need to find out why. If you haven't done it yet, I recommend upgrading the flexible brake lines to stainless steel flex lines. Flushing the brakes and refilling with DOT4 fluid can also help with fading.

Havent towed anything big while on these pads. Just travel trailer with electric brakes (4k lbs (it's little))

DOT4 synthetic since birth.. flushed often. SS brake lines.

rears work, well as good as they can.. haha. All hardware is new and greased, etc etc etc... everything wears flat.

Maybe the trucks just too heavy for that pad. I usually weigh in around 7800-8100lbs daily.

Could be on the weight. Does the truck nosedive hard when you get into the brakes or does it feel like the whole truck is settling in? GM did have problems on the GMT400s with the prop valve not being correct from the factory. Could be the same guy that did the GMT400s also did the newer trucks. Could also be those SSBC calipers grabbing harder than the system expects which would also require a recal on the prop valve. Or, might replace the rear calipers with SSBC ones.

the proportioning is done in the ABS module based on engine load and some other factors. I think mainly the fronts do all the work anyways.

I'd like upgraded rear calipers but I dont want to fork over another grand for them..haha.. Actually I was looking to see if I could simply get the larger rotors and caliper bracket but apparently SSBC only sells it as a "big brake kit", which comes with a bigger caliper with more pistons..

I think this is why the 2011+ trucks came with much bigger brakes.. issues like this. I'll have to learn to drive slower..

I love the thermo quiets even the wagner severe duty pads are pretty good to. On every gmt 800 I have dealt with 2500 or larger the rears wear before the fronts do. I also see alot of trucks getting close to 200k on stock brakes

The rears didn't wear heavier on mine but could be because the SSBC's. The stocks would go 200k no doubt.. i dont know what they're made of but they barely eat rotors and they wear extremely slowly.. Mine were cracked though, so regardless needed changing.

Most of the guys on the diesel sites run stocks I think handful run EBC's or Hawk (dont like the dusting but stop good).
Found a handful that ran these pads but they aren't very aggressive drivers..



Last edited by SikSilverado on Sat Apr 14, 2012 2:30 pm; edited 1 time in total

Is it possible to buy the stock pads anywhere besides the dealer?

z71gmc06 wrote:

Is it possible to buy the stock pads anywhere besides the dealer?

Advanced Auto or GMPARTSDIRECT.COM

rock auto too.

Thanks, I thought I heard a slight squeak the other day. I have 133k on my originals.

No reason to mess with getting something different when these have been so good.

z71gmc06 wrote:

Is it possible to buy the stock pads anywhere besides the dealer?

In addition to the places already suggested (Advance and Rock Auto), you can purchase at O'Reilly's and probably other parts houses as well. Have you checked out this online spot? http://www.buybrakes.com/c-77-brake-pads.aspx I've purchased from them in the past with good results (rotors and pads).

So how do you know which ones are OEM?

Not trying to be smart, but have you considered asking the dealer for the P/N?

The part # is on rock auto. The legit ones are the most expensive, in my case $140 for fronts.

If they squeek/squeel, Not sure if you read the threads here or even on dieselplace about squeeky brakes. Relating to rusted or non-greased sliders. In some cases worn/dry slider bolts.
If they are clean and greased and the tolerances have been massaged or verified, you could simply have cracked pads.. (my case)

Another annoying thing about these thermo's is the front's have just a tad too much play between the ears and the brake hardware, the pad tends to wobble and create a slight "warped rotor" squeel at low speeds.. Gone when braking. This can be fixed using the red "glue" from autozone or napa its made by CRC. the pad would effectively be glued to the pistons and absorb sound.

Thanks for the tips, I'll definitely check everything over when I get around to changing them.

I am still on my factory pads and every time I look at them they have plenty of pad left. That's why I figure why mess with a good thing. I have always had excellent stopping power and the wear is phenomenal. I haven't heard anything out of them since that one time, but when I rotate my tires I will check things over.