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Vortec L31 MARINE MANIFOLD project! Q&A
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"Two -6AN fuel lines with female flare on both ends are needed, one 6" long the other 7" long.
The optimal solution is to use 45-degree -6AN fittings at one end of each fuel line. This solution ends up needing one line 2" long between fittings and the other 1.5" long. (See PIC)"

So if we are going to use the option of 6 inches and 7 inches, is that the line between the fittings or is that the total length of the line?

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I used the 45 degree ends with one 1.5 and the other 2 you can kinda see them in this pic how they angle down this is the ideal way so the distributor cap will clear easily


These are what the lines end up looking like

Heres some part numbers for all the fittings: There is on Female 14mmx1.5 "saginaw" EARLS part number is 9894DBHERL, One Female 16mmx1.5 "saginaw" EARLS part number is 9894DBJERL, One 3/8 Female quick connect to -6 male PROFLOW part number PFE808-02, One 5/16 Female quick connect to -6 male PROFLOW part number PFE808-01, Two 45 degree hose end -6 black PROFLOW part number PFE102-06BK, Two straight hose end -6 black PROFLOW part number PFE101-06BK. Hope that helps for anyone

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Has anyone looked at using the 860373-c system? If so what is the bolt pattern for the throttle body, Is it the same a square bore Holley pattern? I have a 383 vortec I am putting into the jeep. I have read this form and it is very interesting, But because I am not starting in a Chevy platforum I was interested about this other system. I am looking at using a Megasquirt computer system for the computer control. Thanks for the help.

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My injector harness

How are you guys getting pins from the individual injectors out for the wiring harness?

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Cut theottom off and solder wires to the pins it sucks and its a PITA

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I ended up twisting them off from the injector.....I agree it was a PITA to work on.

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Holy sh*t! That is going to take at least a whole day to do. I was able to remove the glue from each injector and get to the torx or starpoint screws but even those are hard to remove. I guess its better than hacking up the factory harness though.

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QuickSilverAWD wrote:
I guess its better than hacking up the factory harness though.

Thats debatable, but to each their own. Even GM sells splice kits with their fuel pump and MAF kits. If done properly a splice will never give you an issue. It s only 16 wires, 8 ground and 8 power wires.

peace
Hog

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This is how the navy taught me in BEEP school.

A little heatshrink tubing and you will never have to worry about it again.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Master-a-perfect-inline-wire-splice-everytime/#step1

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What I did was install a Delphi 16 position connector. Cut the wires, install the 16 male and 16 female terminals and insert into respective connector. Viloa! It makes a nice starting point for what ever fuel injection I end up with or just easier removal of the intake.

I got the terminals and connectors from Mouser, and the crimper from fleabay.

TJ

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Hey guys, it's been a while coming, but is there anyone on here that I could have my ECM recalibrated for my conversion? it's the old black box style, I'm not interested at this time to do the 411, just get my truck up and running again! I am running stock marine injectors, and a lumpier cam, that's about it. I can fill in all the details about what I need, just need someone, Hopefully in Canada (Hog?) thats willing to take some of my money to do it.

Thanks!

Cam

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Post 383 Marine intake crank sensor 
I just completed a 383 swap with a marine intake. I have a problem. I cant run the plastic timing chain cover that holds the crankshaft secsor. I read on another forum that you can delete the sensor from the computer. Is this true? The way i understand it is the crankshaft sensor only detects missfire.
Thank you

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Post Re: 383 Marine intake crank sensor 
Kason wrote:
I just completed a 383 swap with a marine intake. I have a problem. I cant run the plastic timing chain cover that holds the crankshaft secsor. I read on another forum that you can delete the sensor from the computer. Is this true? The way i understand it is the crankshaft sensor only detects missfire.
Thank you

Sounds like you have a 2-piece rear seal block and can't run the 1-piece timing cover. The crank position sensor is used by the PCM to pulse the module which sends spark and to fire the injectors. Even RPM in the PCM comes from that. Honestly it's probably the most critical sensor in the system. It's not possible to remove it unless this input signal is provided to the PCM in another way. It might be possible to run an external 4x sensor.

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you're not trying to use a dual timing chain either are you? dual chains don't play nicely with the crank reluctor.

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Post looking to buy a intake ready to bolt up? 
any one have one of these for sale ready to go....


thanks tony

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I have done this swap a while back and am perfecting my tune. Is anyone running EFILive for programming?

My setup:
383 internal balance
Mercruiser MPFI ported
Bosch 36lb/hr Injectors (direct swap for LS1) (http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=237)
58psi regulator
Ported throttle body
Iron 64cc vortec ported and polished
Long tube headers Hedman 69490
Comp Cams XFI 280 hydraulic roller, Comp Cams Magnum hydraulic rollers

Cam specs:
Operating Range: 2000-6000 RPM
Duration Advertised: 280° Intake / 288° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 230° Intake / 236° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.6 Rockers: .576'' Intake / .570'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 113°

Has anyone had any success with a swap of this nature? Everything is almost dead-on perfect except for the cold start aspect.

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most of us use EFILive to tune with. what cold start problems are you having?

EDIT- just saw your other thread about the problems. I'll go read up on it and post up there if I can help

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Its either pig rich at startup or I have way too much timing when cranking. Would B5915 zeroed out help?

I have swapped the injectors, rebuilt the Cranking VE table according to the excel spreadsheet, pulled VE out of the low rpm range of the Main VE table, increased Startup Friction Airflow Correction....

Warm starts are no issue. Just seems like it has a mixture of too much fuel and timing. Last I checked I was commanding almost 8:1 during cranking according to the logs

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no, zeroing B5915 won't help the issue, I posted up in your other thread and sent you a PM, lets move the conversation over there so we can keep this thread somewhat on track about marine intake swapping.

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"Entire fuel rail is stainless steel and brazed together as a single unit with no possibility of leaking. Fuel pressure regulator has a lower pressure than stock at about 50-55psi instead of 60-63."

Does this mean run the automotive regulator?

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