So after your response to my previous thread...the Procharger and Headers are going up forsale. I have done some research, but my plan is try and get everything I can and then make my Haynes Manual that I can just lay out in the Garage when the time comes...

Before this thread gets under way...

My goal: B/w 500-600hp of reliability. If I end with more well then...WHOOP WHOOP
Budget: Right now I have $2,500 and with the sale of my PSC-1,headers, and raman noodles I can have $4-5k.

FYI: I don't need boost if it fits into the budget right away. My motto is do it once...do it right. I want all my motor and tranny work done before I put it in the truck. We all know it is easier to work on the motor while it is out of the truck. So all my bolt ons will be done.

My truck is a 4x4, quite honestly I rather go with a 2x4. I did peek some 4l80e threads found an awesome website with parts and shafts etc etc... Going from 4x4 to a 2x4 will that be a HUGE problem?

The difference b/w 5.3 and 6.0 is just the size of piston. B/c we are talking about boost, the safer option would be the 5.3 or would you rather have more displacement? IMO there nothing NEVER wrong with displacement.

Just keep in mind I AM SPECIAL So be kind and don't really overwelm with technical jargan. Just put it all in layman's terms.

So I guess the pre-fix of this book...will be What motor and why?

If you guys feel I am out of order...please feel free to say something.

I think it's easier to go from 4wd to 2wd than the other way around. This way you just have to remove/disable things. If you wanted to do it right you should get rid of your front axle and put in the 2wd suspension, but that would be a pretty big job.

5.3 or 6.0? Probably comes down to what kind of mileage do you want when your just driving normally. You will get more unboosted horses from a 6 litre so if power is your main driver that's what I would get. Think 327 vs 400 in the old days.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Someone had mentioned the 2005+ engines are better.

IMO
Budget=5.3
Torque=6.0

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1109_stock_gm_ls_engine_big_bang_theory/

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0901gmhtp_ls1_ls6_ls2_ls3_l99_ls4_ls7_ls9_lsa_engine_history/viewall.html

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=705829

http://www.lsxc.com.au/ozlsxforum/showthread.php?180-Lsx-Tuning-bible

What about milage wont the 5.3 get better? Every truck I have drove with a 5.3 felt like it had more power than the trucks Iv drove with 6.0s I know thats not the case but thats how it feels and probably because of the weight difference betweent the 2 trucks

http://www.amazon.com/How-Supercharge-Turbocharge-Engines-Design/dp/1934709123

I have heard the same, that the 2005 are better, well they made changes to address the piston slap. Now, I have yet to hear or see results where piston slap had detrimental effects on a daily driver other than annoying the heck out of the owner. My 2002 Camaro has the piston slap when its cold. Once it is completely warm its undetectable. I only have 23K on it so its probably too early to see what effects its having.

I have seen guys rip out the 6.0 to put in boosted 4.8's in Silverado SS's...

For my truck I would go with the LQ4 6.0 for a number of reasons, lower compression for any future boosting. The 2005 and up short blocks are the same internals as the LQ9. LQ4's are cheaper and easier to get.

I have considered turning a 5.3 into a 5.7 for nostalgia...

For cost and ease of the swap I would really think hard about the 5.3.

I would not be concerned with a junkyard motor if you just clean it up and swap it in. If you open it up then thats pandoras box. Its been proven that these things can take quite a bit in stock trim.

my 2 cents

Whipped383 wrote:

What about milage wont the 5.3 get better? Every truck I have drove with a 5.3 felt like it had more power than the trucks Iv drove with 6.0s I know thats not the case but thats how it feels and probably because of the weight difference betweent the 2 trucks

its probably due to the 4l80E 1st gear difference, also the tq man on the 6.0 setup seems to be a bit more than the 5.3. probably due to pulling.

The 6.0 does feel slower and it is due to the 2.48 first gear. This is correctable by rebuilding the trans with a TCI low gearset. I used a 2.75 first, and it almost has the same takeoff as the 3.01 in the 4L60E. When I made the swap, I went from being able to spin the tires on my tired 5.3L to being right at the ragged edge of spinning. The torque management really only comes into play for about a half second during the shifting, otherwise torque is not reduced under normal driving. That may not be the case if there is any traction control.

And, after doing a junkyard engine that I had rebuilt, I suggest that you go ahead and spend a little extra for a new crate. This way you get all new sensors, injectors and crap. It's the little things that'll get you on this. Had I just picked up a crate 4.8L for mine, I could have slapped on some high performance heads and the cam I wanted and been money ahead.

GM from the factory used the same crank in every engine except the 4.8L. The 4.8L has a 3.27 crank, the rest of them have a 3.62 crank. The displacement changes are all due to the bore, unless GM made changes in the last couple of years.

Doing a swap into a GMT400, I'd go ahead and run with a Gen 4 engine with the 1K computer and the 54X reluctor. The 24X reluctor setup isn't really supported anymore, and new crate engines in the future will have the 54X reluctor installed. If I didn't already have the 24X system in my truck I would just step right into the 54X system. I might even look into it anyway at some point in the future.

Why do you want to remove the 4x4? I think you'd be better off leaving it as a 4x4 and either just deal with the extra capability or sell it and buy a 2WD truck.

Good point Jim, the 24x vs 54x is an important consideration as well. I have not researched this thoroughly so please provide the correct info if I am wrong. I was under the impression that all 54x and the 1K pcms are CAN based? Time is not standing still for the GMT400's as ABS, Gauges, and controls are all still class 2 data bus.

There is so much to consider. I have been considering different options since 2002... I have gone many different directions and none are easy, or straight forward, or affordable without a sizeable investment in time and money. In the end you have to draw the line in the sand, make a commitment to the hardware and stick with it. Heck you go to cruises and carbs are still the predominant method of fuel delivery. I agree that the gen 3 and on up platforms are the future. If the 54x 1K pcms have class 2 capabilities I would go that route. Just don’t paint yourself into a corner technology wise that parts and support down the road are hard to come by. All I want to do is get rid of the poppet injector setup because 50 years from now parts won’t be available, but I’d be willing to bet something from the gen 3 and up platforms will be!

The 58x reluctor can be swapped for a 24x and be a lot easier to integrate in the GMT400



Last edited by CrazyHoe on Tue Feb 07, 2012 1:56 pm; edited 1 time in total

CrazyHoe wrote:

The 54x reluctor can be swapped for a 24x and be a lot easier to integrate in the GMT400

Yes, but that still means you are on the slower PCM that won't support the new stuff. The difference really isn't enough to make it worth changing a 24X system at this time, but it is enough that if you have neither you really need to be looking at the 54X stuff.

58x not 54

58? My mistake, that's what I get for working while posting.

Got off work late, a little tired. Kinda grazed thru the links as well as your replies while the roommate talked her head off about her day...blah blah yadda yadda yadda. I could have swore I told her to leave me alone for the week as she is aware of the project being undertaken. Guess I will add a Furby to the list...keep her occupied.

I am a little all over place as I was distracted...

Link to amazon: Awesome book...I will order it. That is running a marathon...IMO I think I haven't even crawled yet.

All those links to motors were informative. But I think Twin turbo's are out of picture and budget. I also think twin turbo's= double trouble. Why not just slap on one big one. One boost leak...one headache.

Now with what I am looking to do does it really matter with the 24x or 58x relucter? Will I run into parts finding issue years from now. Since I am doing all of this you are going to bury me in my truck.

I am emotionally attached to my truck...so selling it for a 2x4 is out of the question. I also just have the room to swap parts from one to another.

That thread on pirate4x4 had the makes to be good one but it is in all different directions. That wiring digrams tht caught my eye...I assuming that covers wiring my motor in.

It is going to be 5.3 or 6.0. Now I just need to know which yer you guys find best. I found 6.0 with tranny, harness and computer for $2,100 in S.C. I am up here in NY so a road trip might be on hand. I asked him a few questions...see what his response his. If works out...throw him an offer of $1,500 and we go from there.

Just out of curiousity...lets say I get little bit over my head...how much you pros would charge to do it all? PM your offers. Time you think it would take to complete.

you should checl out PSWIRED 's old b?lack truck. he swapped in a 6.0L and a 4l80e into a 4wd truck and used the EXACT SAME dirveshafts as it came with from the factory. why not just go back with 4wd?
this swap shouldnt take all that long if you already have a 0411 on a 5.7L just add a few more wires and make a injector harness while you whack off the central injector plug and everything would basically bolt inplace(except the A/C compressor) with the motor swap brackets and re locating the tranny cross member rearwards.
if money is an issue on a budget... paying someone to do this would be kinda pricey if needed in a timely fashion.

stroker97k1500 wrote:

you should checl out PSWIRED 's old b?lack truck. he swapped in a 6.0L and a 4l80e into a 4wd truck and used the EXACT SAME dirveshafts as it came with from the factory. why not just go back with 4wd?
this swap shouldnt take all that long if you already have a 0411 on a 5.7L just add a few more wires and make a injector harness while you whack off the central injector plug and everything would basically bolt inplace(except the A/C compressor) with the motor swap brackets and re locating the tranny cross member rearwards.
if money is an issue on a budget... paying someone to do this would be kinda pricey if needed in a timely fashion.

Drive shafts from the GMT400 or GMT800? I can do 4wd, just rather have 2. This truck will never see the elements again. I DON'T trust anyone! Ok, so I will still need the 411, even with the 24 or 58x relucter people are talking about? These motors will bolt right in? No aftermarket motor mounts? I know I have to move the cross memeber back for the 4l80e, but don't I have to get a mount fabircated and welded on? Those hooples on the website trying to sell stuff I don't need?

I might keep the A/C...might not. Since I removed the rear A/C for I can install my tank and compressor. Feel like half the battle to a functioning A/C is done.

So I got email from the seller of the 6.0,4l80e, harness,and comp. Has a little over 100,000 miles. Mostly highway which I believe bc everything is a rod trip apart down south. Think I should pass. FYI it is 4wd 4l80e all from a Sierra 2500 HD 4wd ex cab 03

Aint no lie buy buy buy!

CrazyHoe wrote:

Aint no lie buy buy buy!

So make an offer on the set up?

A 6.0 with tranny, harness and computer for $2,100 would be good for me, but, is it good for you. Only you can answer that. I'm from a different country, you'd think it's a different planet with the price we pay here.

To me it sounds like a deal to. How many miles are on them? You say you dont want to keep the 4x4 how about get the SS transfercase and make it AWD have all the traction youll ever need. Going with the 6.0 is probably the way to go its the only way your going to get an engine with a 4l80e. 03 will have drive by wire so your throttle pedal will need changed and you may need the TAC module for it to or you can just chane to a cable driven TB